Fillerbunnie's GTM Stage 1 Supercharger build (Australian RHD)

fillerbunnie · 11-19-2012, 05:57 PM

Kit arrived - exceptionally well packed!

Every item individually sealed and itemsed, with a full parts breakdown.. down to the individual screws and bolts!

Still waiting on the tune from Sam, haven't heard from him in a few days but hopefully that will come soon.

So I did the fuel pump last night and all went smoothly. took about 2-3 hours in total, working very slowly. I would put pics up, but they are no different/no more interesting than the installation manual.

A couple of points to make during installation (this will make more sense if you read the installation instructions:

http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

- Page 13 (Picture 4): You first have to remove the 4 nuts and the metal plate (See the next step), then disconnect the connector from the top of the fuel pump assembly. This is no big deal, just a minor variation to the order.

- Page 15 (Picture 9). Fuel WILL go everywhere. Have a towel. There is no way to avoid this. I had a small rag that ended up soaked through

The up-side for me was the top of the fuel pump assembly got a nice clean!

- Page 15 (Picture 10): When removing the fuel pump, it will snag on the float. The float sits on a bit of metal, protruding out about 15cm from the body of the fuel pump, so you need to rotate the fuel pump 90 degrees as you remove it. Think about this when you remove it, as the sensor looks quite fragile and you don't want to damage it.

- Page 18 (Picture 24): I used a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the filter. The filter is fused to a piece of plastic, which is then pressed down to the fuel pump body housing. I put a flat-blade between the two plastic parts and levered it off easily. I think pulling on the filter isn't the best move - It seems quite sturdy (For woven fabric), but I feel I may have ripped it if I pulled it with the force I would have required to remove it.

- Page 18 (Picture 23) These instructions on removing the fuel pump don't seem 100% dead-on. The instructions say unhook/break (if required) the white plastic clips to remove the fuel pump, when in reality you can simply rotate the fuel pump counter-clockwise and it falls out of the housing (See my badly annotated diagram). These plastic clips need to be cut away in the next step anyway, however it is a lot easier to do this with the fuel pump removed, than trying to break/unhook the clips with a fuel pump in the way.

- Page 20 (Picture that shows cutting plastic) - Cut the clips, using a sharp blade, right down to the base of the clip. If you leave clips protruding unevenly, the fuel pump will go in at an angle.

- Page 22 (Picture 50) - My harness was red and black. Green/turquoise wire is positive (red). Black is black. This is pretty self-explanatory, but thought I'd add it none the less.

- Page 24 - Possibly the most important point - my O-Ring had stretched and no longer sits in the recessed metal. I re-assembled (with difficulty, as the o-ring sits outside the recess as it is too large, making it almost impossible to put the screws back in). Now it is re-assembled, it does not seal 100% as a portion of the o-ring is outside the recess. **I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BUYING A REPLACEMENT O-RING** These can't be more than $15 from Nissan and I will be doing just that this week. I suspect I will get fuel fumes in the cabin until I replace this. If I was GTM I would probably be supplying one with the kit. Maybe if you car was very new (mine has 20,000 miles) it would not have expanded so much, but for me a replacement was mandatory.

Car fired up after about 5 seconds post-replacement, and ran perfectly (apart from the fuel smell from all the petrol I spilt when unclipping the fuel hose

~

Pump makes a noticeable whine which you can hear idling. This is normal for Walbro pumps, and not an issue for me as I usually have some music on anyway. Just a nice reminder of the 500 horses I'll have under the hood

Anyway, that is all so far

I'll start on the mechanical later this week!

GUTCH · 11-20-2012, 02:02 AM

I was wondering what had had happened to you. Were you charged tax or import duties for the kit?

Glad to see it all arrived safe and sound.

blackonorange · 11-20-2012, 08:59 AM

What o ring are you talking about?

Baer383 · 11-20-2012, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackonorange

What o ring are you talking about?

He is talking about the blue O ring that seals the top metal plate to gas tank.

blackonorange · 11-20-2012, 01:10 PM

Ohhh I see, I didn't have a problem with mine.

fillerbunnie · 11-20-2012, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GUTCH

I was wondering what had had happened to you. Were you charged tax or import duties for the kit?

Not a cent. Thanks Sam!

In regards to the o-ring, perhaps I was unlucky. Mine was quite obviously stretched, so may have just been bad luck.

fillerbunnie · 12-05-2012, 10:35 PM

Still waiting on the tune from GTM so I can start

Baer383 · 12-05-2012, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillerbunnie

Still waiting on the tune from GTM so I can start

You can start it and let it idle to bleed the cooling system and check for leaks the idle adjustment are the same for stock.

mhcoss · 12-09-2012, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383

You can start it and let it idle to bleed the cooling system and check for leaks the idle adjustment are the same for stock.

don't you need the supercharger tune before you start it for the first time?

Baer383 · 12-09-2012, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhcoss

don't you need the supercharger tune before you start it for the first time?

Nope ,Sam told me the start up and idle are the same you just can't be revving it up.

mhcoss · 12-09-2012, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383

Nope ,Sam told me the start up and idle are the same you just can't be revving it up.

oh cool.. the temptation to rev would be great haha!

fillerbunnie · 12-14-2012, 12:15 AM

Yeah I haven't even started the install yet as the first step was to test the OEM uprev tune to make sure it was all OK.

Sam sent me the tunes last week, but at this stage I won't be starting the install until early Jan.

fillerbunnie · 01-14-2013, 06:56 PM

OK so I started the install Friday last week.

All going pretty well, but I've hit page 51 (Power Steering line install) of the install document:
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

And it looks like I don't have the lower high pressure fitting or the stainless high pressure line in my kit.

Interestingly, further in the document (Page 77) it shows the power steering cooler lower line, with an arrow pointing "To Factory Hard Line", despite the instructions earlier in the guide (Page 38, removal of power steering lines) to discard all the factory lines.

So I'm confused - I suspect perhaps the instructions are a mix-up between an old and new version of the kit and I am supposed to be using the factory lines for this part. That, or some parts were missing from the kit. Interestingly, the high pressure fitting and braided line don't appear in the parts manifest either.

I've emailed Sam from GTM, currently awaiting a reply, but I would appreciate input from anyone else who has done this install?

fillerbunnie · 01-14-2013, 08:48 PM

All good, Mike has just replied with some info - advising me I can retain the high pressure line OEM line.

I'll give it a crack tonight.

Wattles · 01-17-2013, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillerbunnie

I've emailed Sam from GTM, currently awaiting a reply, but I would appreciate input from anyone else who has done this install?

Wow, lots of great work! Good luck on the rest of the build!

11-19-2012, 05:57 PM	#16 (permalink)
fillerbunnie Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: AUstralia Posts: 31 Drives: '10 370Z Rep Power: 167	Kit arrived - exceptionally well packed! Every item individually sealed and itemsed, with a full parts breakdown.. down to the individual screws and bolts! Still waiting on the tune from Sam, haven't heard from him in a few days but hopefully that will come soon. So I did the fuel pump last night and all went smoothly. took about 2-3 hours in total, working very slowly. I would put pics up, but they are no different/no more interesting than the installation manual. A couple of points to make during installation (this will make more sense if you read the installation instructions: http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf - Page 13 (Picture 4): You first have to remove the 4 nuts and the metal plate (See the next step), then disconnect the connector from the top of the fuel pump assembly. This is no big deal, just a minor variation to the order. - Page 15 (Picture 9). Fuel WILL go everywhere. Have a towel. There is no way to avoid this. I had a small rag that ended up soaked through The up-side for me was the top of the fuel pump assembly got a nice clean! - Page 15 (Picture 10): When removing the fuel pump, it will snag on the float. The float sits on a bit of metal, protruding out about 15cm from the body of the fuel pump, so you need to rotate the fuel pump 90 degrees as you remove it. Think about this when you remove it, as the sensor looks quite fragile and you don't want to damage it. - Page 18 (Picture 24): I used a flat-blade screwdriver to pry off the filter. The filter is fused to a piece of plastic, which is then pressed down to the fuel pump body housing. I put a flat-blade between the two plastic parts and levered it off easily. I think pulling on the filter isn't the best move - It seems quite sturdy (For woven fabric), but I feel I may have ripped it if I pulled it with the force I would have required to remove it. - Page 18 (Picture 23) These instructions on removing the fuel pump don't seem 100% dead-on. The instructions say unhook/break (if required) the white plastic clips to remove the fuel pump, when in reality you can simply rotate the fuel pump counter-clockwise and it falls out of the housing (See my badly annotated diagram). These plastic clips need to be cut away in the next step anyway, however it is a lot easier to do this with the fuel pump removed, than trying to break/unhook the clips with a fuel pump in the way. - Page 20 (Picture that shows cutting plastic) - Cut the clips, using a sharp blade, right down to the base of the clip. If you leave clips protruding unevenly, the fuel pump will go in at an angle. - Page 22 (Picture 50) - My harness was red and black. Green/turquoise wire is positive (red). Black is black. This is pretty self-explanatory, but thought I'd add it none the less. - Page 24 - Possibly the most important point - my O-Ring had stretched and no longer sits in the recessed metal. I re-assembled (with difficulty, as the o-ring sits outside the recess as it is too large, making it almost impossible to put the screws back in). Now it is re-assembled, it does not seal 100% as a portion of the o-ring is outside the recess. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND BUYING A REPLACEMENT O-RING These can't be more than $15 from Nissan and I will be doing just that this week. I suspect I will get fuel fumes in the cabin until I replace this. If I was GTM I would probably be supplying one with the kit. Maybe if you car was very new (mine has 20,000 miles) it would not have expanded so much, but for me a replacement was mandatory. Car fired up after about 5 seconds post-replacement, and ran perfectly (apart from the fuel smell from all the petrol I spilt when unclipping the fuel hose ~ Pump makes a noticeable whine which you can hear idling. This is normal for Walbro pumps, and not an issue for me as I usually have some music on anyway. Just a nice reminder of the 500 horses I'll have under the hood Anyway, that is all so far I'll start on the mechanical later this week! yoyoPR likes this.

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11-20-2012, 02:02 AM	#17 (permalink)
GUTCH Base Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Australia Posts: 134 Drives: 2018 Audi TT RS Rep Power: 15	I was wondering what had had happened to you. Were you charged tax or import duties for the kit? Glad to see it all arrived safe and sound.

11-20-2012, 08:59 AM	#18 (permalink)
blackonorange A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 1,078 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 16	What o ring are you talking about?

11-20-2012, 01:10 PM	#20 (permalink)
blackonorange A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 1,078 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 16	Ohhh I see, I didn't have a problem with mine.

12-05-2012, 10:35 PM	#22 (permalink)
fillerbunnie Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: AUstralia Posts: 31 Drives: '10 370Z Rep Power: 167	Still waiting on the tune from GTM so I can start

12-14-2012, 12:15 AM	#27 (permalink)
fillerbunnie Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: AUstralia Posts: 31 Drives: '10 370Z Rep Power: 167	Yeah I haven't even started the install yet as the first step was to test the OEM uprev tune to make sure it was all OK. Sam sent me the tunes last week, but at this stage I won't be starting the install until early Jan.

01-14-2013, 06:56 PM	#28 (permalink)
fillerbunnie Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: AUstralia Posts: 31 Drives: '10 370Z Rep Power: 167	OK so I started the install Friday last week. All going pretty well, but I've hit page 51 (Power Steering line install) of the install document: http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf And it looks like I don't have the lower high pressure fitting or the stainless high pressure line in my kit. Interestingly, further in the document (Page 77) it shows the power steering cooler lower line, with an arrow pointing "To Factory Hard Line", despite the instructions earlier in the guide (Page 38, removal of power steering lines) to discard all the factory lines. So I'm confused - I suspect perhaps the instructions are a mix-up between an old and new version of the kit and I am supposed to be using the factory lines for this part. That, or some parts were missing from the kit. Interestingly, the high pressure fitting and braided line don't appear in the parts manifest either. I've emailed Sam from GTM, currently awaiting a reply, but I would appreciate input from anyone else who has done this install?

01-14-2013, 08:48 PM	#29 (permalink)
fillerbunnie Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: AUstralia Posts: 31 Drives: '10 370Z Rep Power: 167	All good, Mike has just replied with some info - advising me I can retain the high pressure line OEM line. I'll give it a crack tonight.