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I hope to join the club soon, saving up my pennies!

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Old 12-12-2012, 12:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I hope to join the club soon, saving up my pennies!
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by esfourteen View Post
machine shop costs were about 1600, and another 350 for coating services (pistons/bearings). that will vary depending on the shop of course.

as for engine assembly and installation id say anywhere from 3-6k, its difficult to ballpark these numbers since theres a lot of factors
Very reasonable!
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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the block ended up going back to the machine shop to get line honed for the ARP main studs, I hadn't thought about that when I purchased them, doh. The short block is being assembled right now and I finally dropped the car off last night at Real Auto Dynamics for the tear down. Should be back on the road in a few weeks with more pics to come!

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Old 01-03-2013, 12:44 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Sweet!
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:58 PM   #20 (permalink)
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so awesome!
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Tear down began today buddy

just as excited to have this car back on the road with its other boosted brothers. we'll have to arrange a boost run with all the "gold sticker" cars... maybe a cruise from the shop to mohegan sun?

squeeze you in? lol
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Tear down began today buddy

just as excited to have this car back on the road with its other boosted brothers. we'll have to arrange a boost run with all the "gold sticker" cars... maybe a cruise from the shop to mohegan sun?

squeeze you in? lol

You know it don't have go ask me twice just tell me when .
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #23 (permalink)
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it has begun!



Engine was torn down yesterday and the new engine is already being assembled. Two interesting things came up so far:

1.) ARP main studs do NOT clear the VHR windage tray, the tray needs to be modified/notched in a few spots to clear a few of the studs which isn't really a concern but worth noting.

2.) The stock dual mass flywheel does NOT like torque. When they removed the flywheel they discovered that the spring portion which helps absorb some of the NVH has essentially broken allowing the 2 pieces to move independently. This was with maybe ~4k miles on my TT kit with the oem flywheel, I never even launched the car. Anyone who is still running the stock clutch and flywheel should be careful.

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Old 01-10-2013, 06:22 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Good stuff!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's a very cool picture. Interesting news on the clutch since lots of people have run FI on the stock clutch successfully for quite some time.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:17 AM   #26 (permalink)
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That's a very cool picture. Interesting news on the clutch since lots of people have run FI on the stock clutch successfully for quite some time.
I call it a ticking time bomb
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I call it a ticking time bomb
Probably right. I plan to get the most of out my stock clutch before changing it. I managed to drive my stock STi clutch on a 490WHP car for years and never had to replace it, though it did start to slip towards the end.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #28 (permalink)
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^i suppose u could do that. I hope ur doing all ur own labor because if not makes no sense to drop the motor twice. If ur tryna save money then yes doing ur own work is beneficial just need time to do it.
For those that have a shop do the work makes no sense because ur not saving money. To drop the motor twice will cost more than what you will save going this route.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #29 (permalink)
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One of the things that is mysterious is the reuse of the cam controllers. According to Nissan you can't. According to others you can, but there is some secret or trick to the timing?

I ended up purchasing new @ $1600. What do you know and plan on?

Thanks.

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Old 01-11-2013, 09:21 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Best of luck to you.
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