keep us posted, might as well do this when my engine is out.

esfourteen: check and see if the cabin heat works properly at idle. is your cooling system requiring frequent bleeding? Have you been watching the coolant level in the overflow tank? Your symptoms, with the little detail given so far, make me cross my fingers that your headgaskets are ok.

my headgasket is already shot, I had to tow the car to the shop last week.

heat worked fine, the expansion tank would consistently push a bit of coolant out on higher boost pulls without overheating. so either exhaust gasses were getting in to the coolant through the headgasket under higher boost levels, or the turbos were boiling coolant creating air pockets.

I'm certainly not ruling out the possibility of exhaust pushing bast the headgasket into the water jacket, but I've only ever heard of that happening under knock. I tried running 100 octane and 17psi with 11.5 AFR and I still experienced overheating and pushing coolant, so I find it hard to believe it was knock related. keep in mind i am running an oem headgasket but using ARP L19 studs.

I really don't know what happened for sure, but I do know the way GTM routes the coolant lines to the turbos is incredibly inefficient, so thats getting sorted regardless, and I'll be switching to a cosworth headgasket. I'll know more once we pull the engine and take the heads off which should be happening this week.

How's that exactly? What other way would/could you do it?

i was gonna say.. stock headgasket? :O that sucks you're having cooling issues. I hope you get them figured out soon. What kinda hp were you making at 17psi do you think?

The stock head gaskets aren't exactly a weak link, especially with l19 studs. If the surfaces were perfect and clean on assembly with adequate stud torque, they should be fine for high power use.

What do you have the studs torqued to?

Once a head gasket developes a leak it will get worse and worse and cause problems even at lower boost and eventually no boost. We had a head gasket go out on a 1725rwhp viper during a pass and it ended up melting down the block in the whole area!

Your gaskets leaking could be damage that occurred a while ago and it's just getting noticeable? Getting the ignition timing to do what you want it to do using the reflash is sort of difficult I have gathered. My car is always attempting to add more timing and runs much more aggressive in the cool air on the street that it did when I tuned it. I might fear how long term reliable this engine would be at the power I run if I was wasn't using e85... And not because of the engine itself but because of the ecu controlling it doing some goofy things at times.

I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know... Just thinking aloud and brainstorming.

e85 is most likely what I'm doing next time around, just to avoid any issues. theres plenty of stations on long island. I am also considering ecutek for the better timing control.

As I stated in my previous post, the coolant output of the passenger turbo is routed to the input of the driver side turbo, as you can imagine the coolant coming out of the passenger turbo is going to be hot and is not an ideal source to cool the driver side turbo. this is probably fine for running low boost but the higher you spin the turbos, the hotter they are going to get.

what should be done is the same thing that every factory twin turbo car does, individual coolant source and return lines.

Gotcha. Makes perfect sense.

I didn't get a chance to dyno at 17, but it was somewhere around 600, I made 575hp/550tq at 15psi on a dynojet. people are running the stock head gasket with more power, it's mls

Dat torque.

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Damn Nick, I am sorry to hear that the car is back in the shop. It sounds as though that is a very plausible source of the overheating issue. Hopefully they will be able to resolve it quickly!!

subd! Awesome!

Man, I must have been under a rock or something. Dude, you built, boosted (big), and retooled............AND I am just now seeing this? I apologize for being obliviously not paying proper attentions, lol. So where do we go from here as a fix action?

Also, is there a reason that you RAD Built-Boost-Brothers have been going with 10:1 pistons?

Better spool and drivability. The engine is fckin strong, no need to drop the CR too much for ~600hp.


Now 1000+ and you're looking at 8.5:1 or less and awful lag lol.