HELP Broke DOWN!!

ZKraken22

So could you just switch to a V-3 SCi?

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Litespeed Racing Titanium Cold Air intake// GT Haus Axle// GarageLine combo// Nismo sway bars// Nismo Spoiler // Berk TP's

ANMVQ

Is that the upgrade from them. I'm not sure cause I can not find anything on line about it.. ??

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Mr.Squeeze

Just get the T Trim upgrade it flows very well moves 1200cfm if my memory is correct . They can do the upgrade just call and ask them . The Trim also flows better down low than SI sci and 928 .

Do not get.the sci if you really do have the si that's a down grade .

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

ZKraken22

yea idk the Parameters on whats better and why. the V-3 SCI was on the 350Z. And i personally loved the jet sound they give off. now i know im 23 so i like loud and attention. the stillen and gtm SC are to modest in sound. But any news yet my friend?

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Litespeed Racing Titanium Cold Air intake// GT Haus Axle// GarageLine combo// Nismo sway bars// Nismo Spoiler // Berk TP's

ANMVQ

Just looking for more power, With the cog pulley set up I'm looking at 2 PSI more 11-12 but also want something that will help with making that sooner, The 928 would make more PSI down low than the stock set up and more WHP, I saw some dynos of 25+ WHP just from their impeller,

I mean to be honest , Still trying to figure out why GTM can make 500WHP on 12 PSI and the Stillen possiably wont? Well see, I dont remember what Mr.Squezze saw for PSI but he was 465 WHP. REALLY 10 PSI, I see 9-10 now and only 412 WHP? Yea we know all dynos are different but not 50 WHP different.

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

jpritche

Don't forget youre AWD so you'll lose more whp through drivetrain loss, add that to different dyno, plus weather, etc etc.

ANMVQ

Not really, The X is RWD till the rears slip( but ny dynos are alway squiggly, AWD fighting the dyno so some what right) . I made pretty good numbers already 412WHP is good for a auto. But I will lose more for the SPD, but your right dynos and wealther make a huge difference but 50??? LOL

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Lug

This doesn't make sense. The HP output is a function of how much air and gas you can use. 12 psi is 12 psi no matter who builds the supercharger. The only other big factor would be the hp drain form spinning the SC and I highly doubt there is that big a diff between the two. Now where in the RPM range it makes power is another story, but peak power is dependant on peak air pressure and having enough fuel pressure to keep up with it.

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keep Chubbs in your pocket - Chubbs

weiboy718

^ on top of that would the STILLEN charge pipe with a single 2.5" pipe be able to handle all that air.

ANMVQ

Not sure what you meant by "makes no sense" I was just saying basically we'll see if the Stillen kit can make that much WHP. I'm going to see 12PSI and will have enough fuel to support it ,We will how ever see if the single inlet pipe can deal with it.

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Mr.Squeeze

10-11 PSI with my Maf's maxing out at 6600 rpms because of the small intake that Stillen kit uses. Just making that bigger would make more power and not max out the Maf's.

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

ANMVQ

Thanx again man,, I was tossing arount the idrea of maybe splitting the tube after the SC, or would I have to spit it before and after, What size, Two 2 inch pipes or what?

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Mr.Squeeze

If your going to do anything I would start with the small intake and get a 2.75inch one made for the maf's.Vince from R/T Tuning and my self talked about doing this just never got around to it.

As far as splitting the tube after the SC I wouldnt do that tell you do something about the first bottle neck in the system.

When I had the kit I thought about all kind of thing's to do to it making it a blow through set up instead of draw through like it is. It should have been blow through from the start.

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Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

ANMVQ

Ok Will do,, I will look at the intake where the MAF's are but arent the Still twin tubes 2.75 now? An that would still go down to one tube to meet the SC? An sorry but can you explain Blow vs draw through? I have read a lot about it but not sure what it means really, I mean really think about doing this while the car is apart , Thanx Cliff

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

weiboy718

found a article about this.

Draw through vs. Blow through MAF

There are two ways of configuring a mass air meter in a centrifugally supercharged or turbocharged vehicle. Here are the pluses and minuses of each setup.
Draw Through

A draw through meter, as MAFs come from the factory, is less affected by bends in the pipes and reducers near the MAF. Remember that the Mass air meter relies on laminar airflow to get a good signal. A draw though meter must use a bypass valve – it bleeds off boost and recirculates pressurized air from in front of the blower/turbo to behind it. It must be done this way because the air has already been metered. If a bypass is dumped to atmosphere it will result in huge rich spikes that will kill drivability.

A draw through meter is a longer way from the engine. Add in an intercooler and there may be an unacceptable delay in what the mass air meter reads and how the engine responds. On a turbo vehicle, the turbos natural ‘spin down’ will create backwash through the MAF that cannot be tuned around. In worst cases, you must convert to blow through to get rid of this.

On a draw through setup you need to recirculate the bypass air when using it with a turbo or centrifugal supercharger. Designing a decent bypass can sometimes be tough - you need to route the return air line as far away from the MAF as possible, and even situate the pipe so it is blowing air at an angle away from the MAF and maybe add an air shield inside the pipe. With an intercooler, you'd need to most likely add two bypasses, one ahead of the IC and another after the IC. This can result in a plumbing nightmare. Bypasses must be big enough to handle all the air. Bypass problems will result in horrible drivability that usually cannot be tuned around - if you suspect a bypass problem, graph a log of MAF volts where the problem occurs. If it looks like a seismograph during an earthquake - that's your problem. Naturally if you run a twin screw or roots style blower, or are NA, your only option is draw through and on those systems, they work just great.

Blow Through

A blow through meter is more affected by pipe size and bends. This is especially true when using a draw through style MAF, i.e. with a housing in blow through. This is much less true when using an '05 style slot MAF as they are a lot more forgiving of bends. A blow through setup vents after the blower, but before the MAF, so the unmetered air can be dumped to atmosphere with a BOV, not requiring extra plumbing to bypass the air. This makes plumbing much easier.

Overall, blow through systems work well. When properly designed, they do NOT reduce the range of the MAF as internet misinformation leads some people to believe. Contrary to internet misinformation, a properly designed blow through system will be easier to tune and live with than a draw through setup. A properly designed blow through setup has the same diameter piping as the MAF’s diameter in straight sections if you are using a draw through style (factory style MAF with a housing). If the MAF is 90mm, use 4” pipe. It may not be practical to use 4” pipe for the entire inlet, but what must not happen is to use reducers right at the MAF or have bends close to the MAF. Use as long a section of the same size pipe as can fit, then do any reducing away from the MAF. The BEST alternative for a blow through MAF is to use an '05 Mustang style slot MAF, and in 3, 3.5 or 4" tube. The larger the tubing the more range the MAF has but it also has less low end resolution. Using a 'performance' style MAF such as a Professional Mass Air Systems HPX MAF will increase range even further. Note that even with a Diablosport MAF.ia the '05 style MAFs will NOT output to battery voltage, they have a limit of 6v. Using the HPX will negate this disadvantage as will going to larger diameter tubing for higher HP vehicles.

It's not a great idea to use an HPX MAF setup in a 4" tune on a lower HP car, it doesn't make it better to do this, just adds range at the expense of resolution. Always plan your MAF setup so that you will be using 80% of the theoretical range of the MAF.

Using an '05 style MAF in an earlier vehicle will require some additional parts. The MAF flange welded into the pipe and a late model pigtail. These are available from online vendors.