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Stage II TT CEL Help!
Well I was driving the car Sunday evening and it bogged down, almost like fuel cut, on acceleration. The CEL came on, along with the VDC and Traction lights. The car was in limp mode and running really rough and rich. I got the car home, parked it, and scanned the code with Cipher.
P0103,Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input is what it showed. I cleared the code and started the car, and it seemed to run fine. I haven't driven the car yet, as I had to leave for business. Any idea what would cause this? I did a search and saw people have had the same CEL code with the Injen intakes in the rain. I have sent an email to Sam@GTM for his advice, but any input would be appreciated in the meantime! I hope nothing is broken... |
try spraying some cleaner on the MAF sensors. I know that a "higher then expected RPM" is due to a VAC leak, personal experience.
To find a VAC leak you can use throttle body cleaner and spray around fitting, couplers, etc.... if there is a VAC leak then the cars RPM will jump up for a second. Car could be rich in order to compensate for the "high air input" reading your getting from the MAFs. Which side is reading off, or is it both? |
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yes, use the cipher and select the afr (b1/b2) and afr correction (b1/b2), maf voltage (b1/b2) maf correction (b1/b2), engine speed, and i think there is something for the o2 sensor voltage also and if so select that too. watch it and see what is off and look at your corrections too. idk if anything will show since you cleared the code but if nothing does show and the code comes back later, do another data logging on the car before clearing the code. if there is a leak, rpms will jump a little at idle. clearing the code will make the car run good until it realizes there is something wrong then things go back to where they were with the rpms jumping around at idle if there is a leak. When I say jump around I mean up to 1,000rpm + |
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^^^ninja edit :tiphat: |
I see you are at 433 WHP,. There has been a lot of talk about our MAF's only being good till 400whp, You may need to upgrade the MAF's themselves?
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that is why GTM has 3'' intake piping. Stock MAFs with GTM TT kit should be ok for about 600rwhp, maybe more.
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clean the MAFS and reset the ECU, make sure everything is tightened up like VQstryker said, good tips, Repped!
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I think your MAF sensor got wet especially if it was raining hard like you said in the email, clear the codes and look at both MAF voltages to see if they are even voltage wise. you Should see around.8 to .9 volt at idle . Rev the engine and see if the voltage is increasing smoothly. If all that is good then i think you got lucky and the sensor did not get damaged. If the sensor got wet then there is a possibility that you might have still some water left in the intercooler, You should check and clean as needed . Hope this help . Sam |
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this is why I wanted you to data log the voltage and correction. Hopefully there is no damage, MAF sensors are not cheap by any means. Thanks for the rep! :driving: |
Thanks everyone for the help! :tiphat:
I will log the MAF voltages and correction factors when I get back in town. Fingers crossed there is no damage to the MAF sensors! |
Well it happened again. Car bogged down and cut off. No CEL this time. I looked at the data log and one Bank 1 sensor is a 1.xx volts while Bank 2 is 4.xx. Seems like the MAF is acting up. :shakes head:
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Sam |
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Or replace them both with these MAF sensors: UpRev MAF GT ^^^not nessesary, you can get your OEM MAF sensor at Nissan but just another option if you want to do both sensors. |
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At idle, both MAF sensors are reading .82. Once I get on the throttle and start to build boost is when the engine hits a wall and cuts out. At this point on the data log, the two sensors are reading very different from each other. Could it be that I have a big boost leak? I have included a screenshot of the two MAF Volt charts (you can see the difference). At one point, Bank 1 is reading 3.96v while Bank 2 is reading 1.27v. It is hard to see in the picture, but the Red and Green lines are the two MAF Volt plots.
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so im in my driveway and did some quick, easy accelerations and you may have a boost leak or a vacuum leak. do you have a boost gauge or controller and have you tried the throttle body cleaner trick I told you? Also, do you have the MAF cleaner?
Im getting almost even voltage to each MAF in both banks and a lot of wheel spin :tup:. I need new rear tires :p |
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How high do you see your MAF voltages when you are accelerating? Do they ever get as high as 4 volts? It seems like the one sensor could just be acting up. Thanks again! |
I stopped a little before 4,000rpm and was seeing 3.xx volts so im not really sure.
Also: check your waste gate lines, BOV line, and all fitting to make sure they are still connected and no holes or anything of that nature are present in the lines. This is one of those things where I wish the person was closer so I could just have them come over and help them finnd the problem. I really hope you find whats causing this and lmk if you need to know where the fittings are that you sould check. |
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Thanks for the input. I will check all the lines and fittings. Luckily I know where they are from the install haha. Otherwise, I'd be searching forever. I'll keep the thread updated! |
Well I took the MAF sensor out and it was wet. Guess water got in the system somehow. Any suggestions on getting everything dry? I guess I will pull the bumper and intercooler and check things out. I am guessing there is water in the intercooler.
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Sam |
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Im surprised water go into the system, I have driven in some bad wheather and I havent had that yet.... :/ |
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Sam - thank you as well. Helpful as always! |
Good luck fitting it in the dryer :p
Get that thing back on the road!! |
Well I pulled the intercooler and it was full of water. Probably close to a gallon. It looks like the water was dripping in through the passenger side air filter and collecting in the charge piping. I really don't want this to happen every time the car sits in the rain. I am thinking about fabricating some sort of drip shield for that filter. Any thoughts?
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I really don't want this to happen again! |
did you use the car as a boat on a fishing trip?! Thats crazy
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we need a drain plug on the IC lol
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Shiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet (my best clay davis impersonation)
Thas crazy amount of water to have.. I hope this isn't a normal problem for the kit.. Tighten, re-tighten, hit full boost n repeat! |
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Haha you mean you're not supposed to drive through rivers? I have no idea how that much water got in there. It is supposed to rain here tonight. I'm paranoid now...
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What?! Now that answers this question:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...side-fmic.html So you've not driven through flood water? I know I haven't, but when washing my car I do spray around that area quite a bit to clean off bugs and whatnot. |
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I think it's the way the pipe is situated. I wonder if it's better for it to be flipped so water doesn't collect in the pipe. Perhaps replace the pipe with an Aeroduct hose? That's what Modshack used for the fang vent mod.
Wicks Aircraft Supply Then we can route the hose to the top so it doesn't collect water. |
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-Do you have all you undercar panels installed on the car ? -Are the fake vent removed or still in the bumper. although the fake vents will allow a direct air flow to air filters also they will do the same with rain as well . If all you undercar panels and the fake vents are on the car and still getting water in the system then you must not be paying attention to how deep the water you are driving in. Note the filter location/height in the pic I'm posting, the don't sit low enough to cause what you are experiencing, Unless you driving the car in some real extreme weather. Hope this help Sam |
He has a nismo, no fake vents on bumper.
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