Stage II TT CEL Help!

elliotty · 04-25-2012, 07:23 AM

Thanks everyone for the help!

I will log the MAF voltages and correction factors when I get back in town. Fingers crossed there is no damage to the MAF sensors!

elliotty · 04-26-2012, 07:25 PM

Well it happened again. Car bogged down and cut off. No CEL this time. I looked at the data log and one Bank 1 sensor is a 1.xx volts while Bank 2 is 4.xx. Seems like the MAF is acting up.

SAM@GTM · 04-26-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotty

Well it happened again. Car bogged down and cut off. No CEL this time. I looked at the data log and one Bank 1 sensor is a 1.xx volts while Bank 2 is 4.xx. Seems like the MAF is acting up.

What is the exact Maf voltage at idle . If one maf is reading 4 volts at idel then you have a bad maf sensor .

Sam

VQStryker · 04-26-2012, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotty

Well it happened again. Car bogged down and cut off. No CEL this time. I looked at the data log and one Bank 1 sensor is a 1.xx volts while Bank 2 is 4.xx. Seems like the MAF is acting up.

bad sensor like what Sam said. Replace bank 2 (driver side) MAF sensor and you'll be gtg

Or replace them both with these MAF sensors:

UpRev MAF GT

^^^not nessesary, you can get your OEM MAF sensor at Nissan but just another option if you want to do both sensors.

elliotty · 04-26-2012, 08:28 PM

At idle, both MAF sensors are reading .82. Once I get on the throttle and start to build boost is when the engine hits a wall and cuts out. At this point on the data log, the two sensors are reading very different from each other. Could it be that I have a big boost leak? I have included a screenshot of the two MAF Volt charts (you can see the difference). At one point, Bank 1 is reading 3.96v while Bank 2 is reading 1.27v. It is hard to see in the picture, but the Red and Green lines are the two MAF Volt plots.

VQStryker · 04-26-2012, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elliotty

At idle, both MAF sensors are reading .82. Once I get on the throttle and start to build boost is when the engine hits a wall and cuts out. At this point on the data log, the two sensors are reading very different from each other. Could it be that I have a big boost leak? I have included a screenshot of the two MAF Volt charts (you can see the difference). At one point, Bank 1 is reading 3.96v while Bank 2 is reading 1.27v. It is hard to see in the picture, but the Red and Green lines are the two MAF Volt plots.

ill go check for you

VQStryker · 04-26-2012, 09:41 PM

so im in my driveway and did some quick, easy accelerations and you may have a boost leak or a vacuum leak. do you have a boost gauge or controller and have you tried the throttle body cleaner trick I told you? Also, do you have the MAF cleaner?

Im getting almost even voltage to each MAF in both banks and a lot of wheel spin

. I need new rear tires

elliotty · 04-27-2012, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VQStryker

so im in my driveway and did some quick, easy accelerations and you may have a boost leak or a vacuum leak. do you have a boost gauge or controller and have you tried the throttle body cleaner trick I told you? Also, do you have the MAF cleaner?

Im getting almost even voltage to each MAF in both banks and a lot of wheel spin

. I need new rear tires

Thanks for doing your testing! I do have a boost gauge and boost controller tapped into the vacuum lines going to the waste gates. I have not tried the throttle body cleaner trick, but I did do a boost leak test a couple weeks ago and didn't find any. I will have to pick up some MAF cleaner and throttle body cleaner and poke around a bit.

How high do you see your MAF voltages when you are accelerating? Do they ever get as high as 4 volts? It seems like the one sensor could just be acting up.

Thanks again!

04-26-2012, 09:41 PM	#7 (permalink)
VQStryker Track Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Texas Age: 36 Posts: 659 Drives: :( Rep Power: 15	so im in my driveway and did some quick, easy accelerations and you may have a boost leak or a vacuum leak. do you have a boost gauge or controller and have you tried the throttle body cleaner trick I told you? Also, do you have the MAF cleaner? Im getting almost even voltage to each MAF in both banks and a lot of wheel spin . I need new rear tires __________________ SOLD- Stryker TT super sleeper (12.35 @ 121mph) no gripZ Chance build http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...ml#post3001583 No Z Last edited by VQStryker; 04-26-2012 at 09:49 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
GMT stage 1 or 2	pokeyl	Forced Induction	78	03-10-2013 08:22 AM
[FOR SALE] Gtm stage 2 sc (g37)	kosstick	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	13	07-19-2012 10:37 AM
Stage 1 to Stage 1.5	Baer383	Forced Induction	10	03-01-2012 02:05 AM
GTM TT Stage 2	elperuano	Forced Induction	16	10-10-2011 07:48 AM
RGM Stage 1 (Need Some Help)	alexpila	Tuning	1	02-01-2010 11:09 AM

04-25-2012, 07:23 AM	#1 (permalink)
elliotty Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 355 Drives: '10 PG Nismo TT Rep Power: 15	Thanks everyone for the help! I will log the MAF voltages and correction factors when I get back in town. Fingers crossed there is no damage to the MAF sensors!

04-26-2012, 07:25 PM	#2 (permalink)
elliotty Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 355 Drives: '10 PG Nismo TT Rep Power: 15	Well it happened again. Car bogged down and cut off. No CEL this time. I looked at the data log and one Bank 1 sensor is a 1.xx volts while Bank 2 is 4.xx. Seems like the MAF is acting up.