Zex kit install 100 shot

fuct

that nano systems sounds interesting. what exactly is it doing?

V8Killer

From what it was explained to me from a coworker is it uses compressed air to keep your bottle temperatures. It hooks directly into the fill outlet of your bottle. You keep the compressed bottle cold buy using a blanket that you put in the freezer or you can even put the nano bottle in a cooler full of ice. It allows your bottle to spray at 100% every shot. No wires needed to be run for a bottle heater it completely eliminates it.

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

OldRice

I have been running one for 2 years. This is what I wrote on another forum regarding it. Definitely worth it imo...

Here are the advantages imo..

PROs
1. Reduced wiring/switch/relay work during system install
2. More solid runs at tuned 950psi (8-10 solid runs @ 100whp jets/10lb bottle) therefore more N2O used and not residual leftover.
3. NANO has mini gauge which can be used to determine how much N2O in bottle before refill
4. Safer...no accidental "ooops I left the heater on"
5. Puts you at or near tuned psi instantly, eliminating wait times for warm up.
6. NANO fittings are the same as paintball gun equipment so easily sourced. Also you theorically could use it to power a semi automatic paintball gun during the off-season...(but I digress, lol)

CONS
1. Hot summer days will require you to chill-pack the bottles as environmental heat over 87d F will increase your starting PSI. That is why I have velcro straps around my bottles for chill blankets.
2. 3000psi kit is easier for refill locations over 4500psi. 4500psi can be filled at paintball\scuba stores and is a smaller bottle profile where space is a concern (i.e. roadster trunk)
3. Cost to refill NANO is 3-4$ so ongoing spend when compared to warmers.
4. Bottles will need to be re-certified after so many years (maybe 5?)
5. NANOs should be slightly overfilled (i.e. 3500psi) since you lose up to 500psi upon initial opening to hit the checkvalve on ur 10LB bottle.

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

V8Killer

Thank you for the info. Sending you a pm

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

OldRice

PM replied. Hopefully your N2O journey will be better the second time around as I remember your "I fried my pistons" posts. I shed a tear every time I read posts like that on forums...lol...sux!

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

OldRice

Here is some more blabbery I wrote somebody before...

Technically, if you lived somewhere where it was 65-70F every day\night your bottle would naturally be in that psi range and a warmer, NANO or anything else would not be needed.

You can control psi in two ways (t-stat warmers or Nano). The benefit of NANO is that you have 3000-4500psi pushing against the N2O in a constant & regulated way to keep you in your "tuned psi". This levels & holds the bottle psi fairly constant as your nozzles draw from the bottle. Warmers in contrast bring a full bottle to tuned psi but then psi starts to reduce after every run usually leaving you with a 1/3 of N2O as unuseable waste (cuz you cant get enough pressure to run the last bit thru the lines). With NANO you get most if not all out through the lines run after run. Actually NANO can potentially get 15-20% more whp in early fresh bottle runs out of your jetting, where the OEM has a re-jetting chart to factor that out for safety.

However, NANO has its shortcomings when outside temps exceed 85F. With that the logic is reversed and actually chill your bottles to bring bottle psi down within the tune. Some folks use 10lb bags of ice, I personally use reuseable polar packs which I velcro strap on the bottles.

In either case N2O pressure gauges are a MUST imho to manage to your tune, whether it be by NANO, warmer or natural temp getting you there.

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Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

OldRice

As I was looking for an update on this thread, and knowing that you are going to give it another try on a new engine, I decided to re-read the whole post regarding the plug burn-up issue. It made me wonder at what starting bottle psi did you test your 100shot? (really 75whp jetting under Zex charts I think should be no prob on VHR). If it was really high 1200-1300psi or greater that could have caused an extreme lean condition or if the NMU plungers became stuck due to low voltage, high pressure, or long-term pressure where you didn't close the bottle off and purge out the lines after use. I came across this article that may be of interest the next go around...

Rebuilding a nitrous solenoid..

I've been getting questions on what would cause a nitrous solenoid to "stick" closed sometimes ??? This time of year (HOT Summer) this seems to become more of an issue. With the under hood temps getting unbelievably high there are a few things that can cause this. High bottle pressure, long durations of pressure against the solenoid, extremely heat soaked coils as well as low voltage.

1. As far as voltage goes you ALWAYS want to power your solenoids thru a relay that is supplied with a good battery power source. Most nitrous solenoids are pressure tested to operate at 12 volts. If your having issues with solenoid activation, testing voltage output on your relay can help solve issues.. Also good grounds are important too.

2. One of the things many don't understand as well is what pressure can do to the plungers in the nitrous solenoids. PRESSURE is what hurts a nitrous solenoid plunger !!! NOT a progressive controller !! ANY time your opening your nitrous bottles valve and or an inline 1/4 turn style valve you should at first SLOWLY crack the valve to allow pressure to steadily put pressure on the plunger, not SLAM into the plunger. Remember, pressure is what holds a plunger down/closed.

High pressure is a no no against the solenoid/plunger. The higher the bottle pressure is the harder it forces the plunger into the solenoids orifice or sealing seat. If you over pressurize the solenoid or leave pressure against the plunger for long periods of time it actually begins to force the center of the plunger out of the main body and nipples up into the center of the orifice. This nipple being forced into the center of the orifice now adds resistance to the lifting motion needed to open against the pressure as well.

3. There are two common styles of plungers (regardless of sealing material in them) used in many of the nitrous solenoids out there. We have been using what is called a "self compensating" plunger ( @ .474 diameter by 1.171 tall) for quite a while. Just recently (@ April of 2012) we made the change to what is refered to as a "pinned" plunger ( @ .474 diameter and overall 1.161 tall). You need to be aware of this when ordering rebuild kits for our's or any other brands solenoids from us. The stem that the plungers go into are also different depths and mixing these up can cause issues..

__________________
Nitrous Outlet 57N 33F +NANO = 349whp/353wtq

V8Killer

Thanks for the information man I really appreciate it. psi was at 950 when tested.

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

V8Killer

Bump. It is still a long road and with me being overseas a lot it seems to take a lot longer than what I want. Another blown motor while on the dyno. No clue how it happened. Improper jets were the first to blame. Now possibly the Nano kit. Right now I am in the middle of making the decision of a short or long block build. On top of that I am looking to go direct port. Hopefully I will get this back on the road soon.

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

gbrettin

How much N2O were you running when it popped?

V8Killer

Just a 100 shot. Jon said basically once they did a pull it just kept spraying and he let off the throttle but it just kept going. Checked the brain box and there wasn't anything wrong with it so none of the gates were just wide open.

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

V8Killer

Just looking to bump my old thread. This has been a long painful road of two blown motors lol. So this week at Z1 they should be finishing up the tune n/a and with a 100 shot of nitrous on the car. I will post them once I receive them.

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"Punch"

Too much to list and a baby shot of nitrous....

Big J

I have lots of experience with nitrous and have been on the fence just bc i don't race like i used to. So you blew the motor because a zex solenoid stuck open?

SlowZ

Not a fan of zex products. I don't think I have any of their parts on my Z. 190 shot and I never had a problem.

JC-Nismo

Dam dude, so you blew two motors and never got a chance to put either one of them on the streets??? I was thinking about No2, but after reading this horror story, I think not!!!!