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Yet Another DIY GTM TT Install
At this point I think everyone knows that with a decent set of tools, the time, and proper experience, you can install a GTM TT kit yourself with the engine in. I personally enjoy looking at other peoples builds so I figured I would post some pictures along the way with mine. The pictures aren't the best but I did what I could with my iphone while installing the kit.
The install is not complicated, but it is difficult doing this with the engine in. Clearances are tight, you are often working on your back reaching up into cramped spaces, its not for the faint of heart but it is completely doable, especially if you take your time. I work full time so I can only spend a few hours a during the week and my weekends have been a bit busy unfortunately. Despite that I've made some good progress so far and I'm over halfway done with the install, I will post up more pictures as the build progresses. I'd also like to give a big thanks to Sam and GTM, you can tell they are very busy over there but he will still take the time to discuss any issues or questions. Parts List: GTM Stage 1 Twin Turbo Turn Key Kit (now running the stage 2 housings with a built engine) GT2860rs .64 AR with internal wastegates Bosch 650cc EV-14 Injectors Walbro 255lph pump Fuel pump voltage stabilizer kit HKS spark plugs AAM Oil Pan Spacer Ceramic coated manifolds, turbine housings, and down pipe adapters Wrapped CNT resonated test pipes AAM 2.5" catback HKS EVC-S Boost controller PLX AFR and Boost sensors with DM-6 multi touch gauges Quaife ATB LSD with 3.5 Final Drive Southbend Stage 4 Clutch Competition Clutch flywheel ZSpeed CSC |
These first set of pictures are unfortunately horrible quality because I forgot to check the "high quality" option when uploading to facebook, epic fail =(
Ready for the install http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...14368903_n.jpg Twins! http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...25582117_n.jpg Lots of parts http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...77218038_n.jpg Removing the exhaust housings for ceramic coating http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...90718425_n.jpg Parts going to the ceramic coater http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...31317485_n.jpg Pump, relay, injectors and plugs http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...29325088_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...89820226_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...38542523_n.jpg Fuel Pump assembly http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...16207745_n.jpg Stock pump and walbro with install kit http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...85531610_n.jpg Ready to go back in http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...30693674_n.jpg Time to swap the injectors, intake manifold and injector rail removed http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...88381264_n.jpg Stock injectors http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...35897346_n.jpg Bosch injectors installed, NOTE: when you install these injectors the plug adapters must all be on the OUTSIDE of the rail, if they are on the inside they will touch the runners and could lead to failure with vibrations over time. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...95935466_n.jpg HKS spark plugs, for when you need some baller spark http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...11734665_n.jpg Removing the stock exhaust manifolds, this was one of those parts that wasn't fun... http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...62007384_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...44938584_n.jpg As you can see the passenger side has MUCH more room, it appears that the engine sits slightly closer towards the driver side http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...46347967_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...28018624_n.jpg Another one of the more difficult parts, drilling and tapping the passenger cylinder head. The best way to do this is using a 90 deg air drill, or a 90 deg chuck adapter if you don't have access to air tools. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...38109769_n.jpg Patience is key here, you will be drilling on your back reaching up into this area, it looks like theres a lot of room but you need to reach over the aluminum subframe and steering rack, you forearms will be angry with you in the end. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...92632106_n.jpg You can see the 2 blank spots that need to be drilled/tapped on the last cylinder port here http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...98107643_n.jpg I had to cut about 1" off each drill bit in order for the drill to clear the firewall, the guide GTM provides makes the drilling part pretty simple, its hard to fcuk this up. Drilling aluminum doesn't take a lot of effort, but make sure you use some wd-40 or other metal cutting lubrication so your bits last. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...77244308_n.jpg This is the part you need to be careful doing, screwing this up is not an option. I found it was best to tap the threads from above, again use wd-40 or similar lubricant. Be sure to check your angle of the tap as you start threading it in. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...25544774_n.jpg Testing the new threads, great success! http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...42685410_n.jpg Now I decided to do the motor mount spacers, this turned out to backfire slightly. NOTE: If you space the engine before installing the manifolds you will have to remove the bottom rear stud on the driver side in order to get the manifold to fit, then re-install the stud after. It wasn't that big of a deal but i was scratching my head for about 15 minutes trying to fit the damn thing. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...21839131_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...42091508_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...84265119_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39247979_n.jpg Just a shot of the car in pieces http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...14257062_n.jpg I chose to install an AAM oil pan spacer instead of drilling/tapping the upper oil pan. This gives an extra quart of capacity and also has built in turbo oil return ports. NOTE: The steel oil pan will sit slightly lower than the front cross beam and steering rack, for some this is a deal breaker but I don't slam my cars so I am not as worried. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...23938229_n.jpg Pickup tube spacer http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...03360592_n.jpg I RTV'd the adapter to the pan first and then immediately installed onto the upper pan, you dont want to wait too long as the RTV will start drying and you will not get a good seal. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...20892085_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...43591104_n.jpg I finally got my exhaust components back from ceramic coating, the coating is good for 2000F. Ceramic coating helps reduce engine bay temps and decrease spool time by increasing exhaust enthalpy (hotter exhaust gas flows faster). http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...47070433_n.jpg Test fitting the actuators after clocking the turbos, NOTE: the actuators/brackets need to be installed AFTER the turbos are mounted. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...06083293_n.jpg Due to the angle at which the actuators sit, you need to bend the actuator arm tip slightly for proper function http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...30117863_n.jpg Driver side manifold installed http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...14664086_n.jpg Passenger side manifold installed http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...18075762_n.jpg Passenger turbo installed, NOTE: you cannot install the coolant outlet bajo fitting or oil return tube until the turbo is installed. http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...71884967_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...00859201_n.jpg Thats all for now! |
First start up, NO exhaust, the camera shakes when I rev it lol
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Very nice! Congrats on tackling it yourself! Been there and it is tough. Can't wait to see the pics!
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nice in for results!
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Pre install pic?? :)
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first set of pictures are up, unfortunately I have to go away this weekend for work so I won't get back to the car until next Tuesday, ugh.
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Bringing back memories! I just wish I had done the ceramic coating now. It seems like everyone is doing it.
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Sorry for my bad English!
I'm from Switzerland ..... But I love those photo strips ... BIG compliment:icon18: Best regards from Switzerland, and good luck Ivo |
Very nice. Good pics and I dig the ceramic coating. Good idea there.
One thing I will mention. Watch those clamps on the fuel pump connections for the rubber hose. Those are just worm clamps and not EFI fuel hose clamps. I had something similar in my Challenger for a while and the clamps ended up cutting the hose as it softened from the fuel. Proper EFI fuel hose clamps have a rounded edge and no worm gear slots in them. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/atta...ose-clamps.gif |
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