Thats a good point.. The intake so low to the ground..

well the GTM stage 2 SC places the filter at a very similar location, it actually stays pretty clean in that area, just don't run deep puddles.

Yeah ^^ what he said...

I was going to look around though and see what else I could find but at the same time this is.the same method Sasha has used on his own 350Z along with many others. It might need more cleaning then not...but it is something I am willing to do.

Correct.

I am now an expert at making jigs as well. This is how the mid mount kits are built.

What I am doing now is the hard part, figuring out how thing will be routed and what will work best. Once this stage is done I can proceed to the jigs. I plan on making two kit from this car. One will of course go with the car/customer and the other I will keep. The one kit that stays behind will be used to build the jigs. That way these will all fit perfect every time, on any M/T 370z.

At this point I plan on taking your moneys..:hello:[/QUOTE]

:iagree: Soooooo TAKE MY MONEY!!!!:rofl2::yum::stirthepot:

No issues at all. Unless you are going deep sea fishing with it, there is nothing to worry about. I have had my air filter in that location for about three years now. Remember, a lot of people spray water (water/meth injection) in to the engine on purpose..:).

Word. Even if a little does get in it has to go through the hot turbo and up through the intercooler first. Which by then any small amount of water will be vaporized. Anything more than that you need to reevaluate your driving conditions.

They typically try to do that after the MAF's :icon17:

Not necessarily. Ideally you want to inject it before the FMIC and after with very small jets vs. one large before the TB. The best water injection setups come with 3-4 nozzles, which are placed throughout the entire cooling system.

I have a similar setup to what Boosted is building and I have No issues with the filter location. Intake temps are great and I don't drive through puddles. Not a big deal.

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Actually if you use a four nozzle setup, 2 small nozzles in front of the Maf and the larger nozzle after the maf you can trick the ecu into keeping desired timing. Basically tricking it with the intake temp change. 30-40 whp just off the smaller nozzles Pre-maf. Gtm has done similar setups on their customer cars.

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Interesting, I have seen Z's trip MAF codes and require cleaning due to sucking up water. I suppose the atomization of the water/meth injection makes the difference?

The Y pipe is taking shape for the F.I exhaust equped cars: (sorry not the best quality pic as it was taken with my phone)

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...4161785808.jpg

Nice smooth transition on the inside (where it counts):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...4161802401.jpg

Should have the flanges welded up to it tonight and install it. After that the rest of the down pipe will be welded, and that will support the turbo while the two banks are bing fabricated to feed the twin scroll.


Thanks to the awesome support by Charles @ cj-motorsports the fuel pump mod kit has arrived. The 750cc injectors also arrived yesterday, and the 340lph fuel pump is already here.

sasha that is some nice progress in just a few days, are you planning on an oil pan spacer for ease of tapping into the system or what are the plans there?

JWT oil pan spacers are onthe way...4 of them to be exact. No need to drill/tap anything with this kit.

The oil scavenging system will also be plug'n play:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_4597.jpg

It will use an "add a circtuit" fuse holder. So you remove an OEM fuse from the OEM fuse box, plug this in and that is it. Then connect to battery gound and +12v and you are done.

with the oil pan spacer will it have clearance issues for us lowered folks or will it sit above the sub frame