***Blackonorange's STS Turbo Build!! - Done by Speedtech Saskatoon***

Speedy

Your wide band needs to be installed BEFORE the cat to give the most accurate reading. Usually they're placed close to the stock sensor.

An AFR of 10 is definitely rich, but adjustments in AFR don't add GOBS of power. You'll pick up some, but not tons. On a stock motor I'd want the AFR around 11.2 -11.5 in this car. That's a nice safe zone to be in for FI to keep things cooler in the combustion chamber.

TIMING is where you'll make up your power. On the Challenger for EVERY DEGREE of timing we add we get "about" 20RWHP.

Stock, I'm told the Z runs around 20-22 degrees of timing at WOT. However on FI, you have to back that off to avoid detonation. I'm curious where your timing is right now with the STS stock tune. Can you find that out for me?

On the Challenger several factors affect the final timing the engine gets, like intake air temp, knock sensors, etc. My Challenger motor is a forged balance and blue printed engine at lower compression (9:1) for boost with special ring gaps etc. I run 93 octane in it and on that 93 octane tune we start off with about 18 degrees of timing at IATs under 100F. At 115 the timing drops to 16 degrees. At 125 it drops to 14 degrees and pretty much stays there. I run about 13-14psi of boost on that car, and my IATs are about 90° over ambient at the end of the 1/4 mile or a hard full out pull on the highway. So if it's 60 out, the IAT gets up to about 150.

Not sure how that'll work out on the Z, just giving you my stats as an example to go by so you have SOME idea. Turbos are more efficient than the roots blower I have on the Challenger, so your IATs should be lower.

Lemme know on how much timing that tune has today.

blackonorange

Yea they called them this morning

blackonorange

Thanks for the info! I'll let you know as soon as I do

SharpByCoop

FYI: We had a disconnect issue with my G37 when we first started. Intermittent. My tech went in and pinched all the female pins tighter to resolve this.

My guess it it's the same problem. None of the tuning advice can be applied until you get consistent readings.

Good luck.

Coop

__________________
Jim Cooper - (Retired: '08 Infiniti G37 Sport • TheShopCT built • 11.13 @ 123 mph (click for vid) • GTM Stage II Twin Turbo • 5-speed A/T Level Ten built • 591whp @17 lbs boost)

blackonorange

Hmmm interesting ill definately try that coop

erkthejerk73

what did uprev say when you called them?

also y are they not on the forum?

tower74

Yes they were complete retards. As far as the Sniffer goes I was told by Marc from STS where it should be..

blackonorange

They said the same thing coop pretty much told me.... They say it's quite a common prOblem

blackonorange

I would think they need to be before the cat to get accurate reading :s

blackonorange

We're gonna take the dash tOmmorrow I guess

blackonorange

Coop which pins are you talking about?

SharpByCoop

I don't know which exact pins, but the connector for the OBD port right under the dash. He took a tool and closed all of them a touch.

Coop

__________________
Jim Cooper - (Retired: '08 Infiniti G37 Sport • TheShopCT built • 11.13 @ 123 mph (click for vid) • GTM Stage II Twin Turbo • 5-speed A/T Level Ten built • 591whp @17 lbs boost)

Boosted Performance

Common sense dictates that it would be the female part of the connector.

blackonorange

Indeed you are correct , drove the car around last night On the base tune Omg 390 whp ain't a joke and the car sounds amazing

Boosted Performance

With temperatures at -10 C, you could not use even a fraction of that 390whp on the street. Wait till June when the roads really warm up, and your tires stick better to the roads...I am in Edmonton, the Z is at 450whp so I speak from experience.