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-   -   ***Blackonorange's STS Turbo Build!! - Done by Speedtech Saskatoon*** (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/50594-blackonoranges-sts-turbo-build-done-speedtech-saskatoon.html)

Speedy 03-22-2012 10:01 AM

Your wide band needs to be installed BEFORE the cat to give the most accurate reading. Usually they're placed close to the stock sensor.

An AFR of 10 is definitely rich, but adjustments in AFR don't add GOBS of power. You'll pick up some, but not tons. On a stock motor I'd want the AFR around 11.2 -11.5 in this car. That's a nice safe zone to be in for FI to keep things cooler in the combustion chamber.

TIMING is where you'll make up your power. On the Challenger for EVERY DEGREE of timing we add we get "about" 20RWHP.

Stock, I'm told the Z runs around 20-22 degrees of timing at WOT. However on FI, you have to back that off to avoid detonation. I'm curious where your timing is right now with the STS stock tune. Can you find that out for me?

On the Challenger several factors affect the final timing the engine gets, like intake air temp, knock sensors, etc. My Challenger motor is a forged balance and blue printed engine at lower compression (9:1) for boost with special ring gaps etc. I run 93 octane in it and on that 93 octane tune we start off with about 18 degrees of timing at IATs under 100F. At 115 the timing drops to 16 degrees. At 125 it drops to 14 degrees and pretty much stays there. I run about 13-14psi of boost on that car, and my IATs are about 90° over ambient at the end of the 1/4 mile or a hard full out pull on the highway. So if it's 60 out, the IAT gets up to about 150.

Not sure how that'll work out on the Z, just giving you my stats as an example to go by so you have SOME idea. Turbos are more efficient than the roots blower I have on the Challenger, so your IATs should be lower.

Lemme know on how much timing that tune has today.

blackonorange 03-22-2012 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erkthejerk73 (Post 1614193)
call uprev about the cable, maybe they have a fix for the cable issue.

Yea they called them this morning

blackonorange 03-22-2012 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedy (Post 1614310)
Your wide band needs to be installed BEFORE the cat to give the most accurate reading. Usually they're placed close to the stock sensor.

An AFR of 10 is definitely rich, but adjustments in AFR don't add GOBS of power. You'll pick up some, but not tons. On a stock motor I'd want the AFR around 11.2 -11.5 in this car. That's a nice safe zone to be in for FI to keep things cooler in the combustion chamber.

TIMING is where you'll make up your power. On the Challenger for EVERY DEGREE of timing we add we get "about" 20RWHP.

Stock, I'm told the Z runs around 20-22 degrees of timing at WOT. However on FI, you have to back that off to avoid detonation. I'm curious where your timing is right now with the STS stock tune. Can you find that out for me?

On the Challenger several factors affect the final timing the engine gets, like intake air temp, knock sensors, etc. My Challenger motor is a forged balance and blue printed engine at lower compression (9:1) for boost with special ring gaps etc. I run 93 octane in it and on that 93 octane tune we start off with about 18 degrees of timing at IATs under 100F. At 115 the timing drops to 16 degrees. At 125 it drops to 14 degrees and pretty much stays there. I run about 13-14psi of boost on that car, and my IATs are about 90° over ambient at the end of the 1/4 mile or a hard full out pull on the highway. So if it's 60 out, the IAT gets up to about 150.

Not sure how that'll work out on the Z, just giving you my stats as an example to go by so you have SOME idea. Turbos are more efficient than the roots blower I have on the Challenger, so your IATs should be lower.

Lemme know on how much timing that tune has today.

Thanks for the info! I'll let you know as soon as I do

SharpByCoop 03-22-2012 11:12 AM

FYI: We had a disconnect issue with my G37 when we first started. Intermittent. My tech went in and pinched all the female pins tighter to resolve this.

My guess it it's the same problem. None of the tuning advice can be applied until you get consistent readings.

Good luck.

Coop

blackonorange 03-22-2012 01:21 PM

Hmmm interesting ill definately try that coop

erkthejerk73 03-22-2012 01:53 PM

what did uprev say when you called them?

also y are they not on the forum?

tower74 03-22-2012 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erkthejerk73 (Post 1614170)
not saying im right, but wasnt towers tuner a moron?

Yes they were complete retards. As far as the Sniffer goes I was told by Marc from STS where it should be..

blackonorange 03-22-2012 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erkthejerk73 (Post 1614761)
what did uprev say when you called them?

also y are they not on the forum?

They said the same thing coop pretty much told me.... They say it's quite a common prOblem

blackonorange 03-22-2012 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tower74 (Post 1614786)
Yes they were complete retards. As far as the Sniffer goes I was told by Marc from STS where it should be..

I would think they need to be before the cat to get accurate reading :s

blackonorange 03-22-2012 06:18 PM

We're gonna take the dash tOmmorrow I guess

blackonorange 03-23-2012 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpByCoop (Post 1614502)
FYI: We had a disconnect issue with my G37 when we first started. Intermittent. My tech went in and pinched all the female pins tighter to resolve this.

My guess it it's the same problem. None of the tuning advice can be applied until you get consistent readings.

Good luck.

Coop

Coop which pins are you talking about?

SharpByCoop 03-23-2012 07:00 PM

I don't know which exact pins, but the connector for the OBD port right under the dash. He took a tool and closed all of them a touch.

Coop

Boosted Performance 03-23-2012 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackonorange (Post 1617107)
Coop which pins are you talking about?

Common sense dictates that it would be the female part of the connector.

blackonorange 03-24-2012 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Z (Post 1617597)
Common sense dictates that it would be the female part of the connector.

Indeed you are correct , drove the car around last night On the base tune Omg 390 whp ain't a joke and the car sounds amazing

Boosted Performance 03-24-2012 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackonorange (Post 1618250)
Indeed you are correct , drove the car around last night On the base tune Omg 390 whp ain't a joke and the car sounds amazing

With temperatures at -10 C, you could not use even a fraction of that 390whp on the street. Wait till June when the roads really warm up, and your tires stick better to the roads...I am in Edmonton, the Z is at 450whp so I speak from experience.


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