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Originally Posted by phunk Yes proper tires and alignment. Currently I have 305/30/19 RE11s, RE11s are not up to the task of over 500rwhp. My alignment also needs to have

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Old 11-28-2011, 07:41 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Yes proper tires and alignment. Currently I have 305/30/19 RE11s, RE11s are not up to the task of over 500rwhp. My alignment also needs to have more camber taken out. I am going to switch to a 305 R888 on my 19s for daily use. With that and less camber it should help a ton from where I am now.

For when I want to use all the power I will use a 335 or 345 drag radial on an 18" wheel, I will put it at stock ride height, and set the camber at zero when using this wheel/tire combo. Pricing out different wheels right now for my 18s.

If anyone is ever able to adjust the SRM system then I will swap out the rear end gear for a taller one.
Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:10 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks
Are you lowered? Do you have camber kit and toe bolts. What wheels and tires you're running. Include all the specs if you can
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:12 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks
how much cornering grip are you willing to sacrifice?
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:46 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by milo View Post
What was your best time and trap speed @ the 1/4 mile track?
I have not taken the Z to the track since i have boosted it. I have not yet set it up to achieve adequate traction in first or second gear to make it worth a serious attemp at the 1/4 mile. It was a goal of mine for 2011 but I never really had the time to take care of it.

I am currently sorting out some 18x12 rear wheels to put drag radials on, and I will align the car better for hooking up and get out there this spring.
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:54 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks
Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:25 PM   #126 (permalink)
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You mentioned R888 as daily drive?? how many miles you can put on them before you change them?? I would get these tires if they can be driven as any other daily drive tires but I dont wanna change them every several months..
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:31 PM   #127 (permalink)
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I'm sure everyone's mileage will vary. But in my experience on these cars at this type of power, the r888 will last just as long as higher treadwear rated tires. I'm sure if you mostly drive nice, regular tires will outlast. But I drive hard and floor it countless times a day... So for me, normal tires that are constantly spinning like crazy do not last any longer than R-compound tires that do not spin nearly as much. So for me it only makes more sense and I get more out of my car at no relevant sacrifice.

I have daily driven them and no complaints. I bet that there's a lot of people who would not consider them acceptable in the rain. I don't mind how they perform in the rain.
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:18 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.
What size tire are you thinking? I found a great price on some 345/35/18" tires They are 27.5" tall...that's quite a tall tire.

M&H TIRES RADIAL DRAG REAR - Starting from $203.00 Featuring Free Warranty and Free Freight - Drag Racing Tires from Performance Plus Tire
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:40 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Thats odd, if that photo is correct, that is the same tire as the Mickey Thompson Street Radial II... one of the tires I was looking at, also available in the same specs.

Ya I would love that 345/35/18 but I dont think it will fit. Whenever my 18x12 wheels get here I will probably give them a shot because a local wholesaler of mine carries them. I will try my best to figure out if I can fit them without having to mount them to the wheel so that I can exchange them if not.

look here for more detailed specs on the MT SRII Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

It sucks that they do not have a 335... they do have a 305/35/18 and the diameter is perfect for the 370z for normal use but the width is just typical for a 305 tire and I know we can fit more. They have a 315/30/18 but its diameter sucks and its narrow sidewall pulls the tread in too much and its less wide than the 305/35/18.

I really do want that 345/35/18. i think the diameter could fit, i think the width could fit, but i doubt they will fit at the same time. So I might have to decide if I think the MT SRII in the 305/35/18 will perform better for me than a different drag radial in a better size (335/35/18). I am pretty sure the BFG DRs come that size, and probably the Nitto DR as well.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:22 PM   #130 (permalink)
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This is a major @#$% tease if it wont be a kit one day:/
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:35 AM   #131 (permalink)
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^Kit?
-Isn't this an off the-shelf, greddy kit?
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:55 PM   #132 (permalink)
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mostly yes. The turbo system is an off-the-shelf greddy kit, only one thing about the actual turbo system itself has been changed, and its mostly irrelevant...

When I wanted my kit, Greddy was waiting for a restock on the tial 38mm external wastegates. I have a small "in" at Greddy from working with them on a project in the past and they were willing to sell me the kit without the wastegates and discount me for them. I purchased a new model of the Tial wastegates which I prefer, the vband MVS gates. So I used the Greddy wastegate flanges and pipes and cut up and welded on the MVS vband flanges to adapt to the wastegates i wanted. overall, they really have no effect versus the normal kit setup, i just prefer them, they are a little more compact.

aside from that, everything else is all in the installation, all the things that I relocated or made brackets for etc, its all part of the installation.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:53 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Your oil and vacuum manifolds are some trick pieces. Any chance of you reproducing them?
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:56 PM   #134 (permalink)
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dibs on a set if you do!
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:07 PM   #135 (permalink)
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