phunk's CJM Greddy TT - Build, Info, Reviews, Etc

phunk

It's the largest pump you can put in the stock pump assembly. I am probably pretty close to its HP limits on e85 and for 2012 I will go bigger. For a SC setup it will run out at a little lower HP. The 11142 is the pump that will go into the stock assembly using our CJM pump install kit or the copy. Stock fuel lines are just fine for e85, no reason to change them. 8700 miles on the e85/tt now. Still good. No worries, e85 is a very simple swap... But if you aren't boosted yet, you should wait until you are or just before... No value in the trouble otherwise!

__________________

awkwardturtle

Hey phunk,

maybe you can answer some of my questions since this build thread is exactly the direction I want to move in, and you seem extremely knowledgeable on this stuff.

How is the power delivery of this kit? I can't seem to find which turbos greddy uses for this kit - is one turbo small for responsiveness, and the other large for power? Or are they both the same? I ask because I drive a turbo'd honda civic right now, and I absolutely _HATE_ the power delivery of it. Here's a printoff of my last buttdyno (in black, red line is what I'd like in a car).



My car is essentially a light-switch car. It's slow, slow, slow.. then at 4k the turbo snaps in and it instantly doubles in horsepower. It's not a fun delivery of power, and it just results in wheelspin. Is a TT'd Z any smoother, or does it have the same effect? I would suspect it's a bit smoother being a larger motor that can get the turbos spinning sooner, but who knows. I wasn't expecting this kind of on/off power when I bought the kit, but I can only blame myself for not doing a bit more research.

Also, what's the WG pressure on that kit? I'm wondering how effective boost by gear would be on these cars? Another thing I really hate about my car is I effectively got rid of 1st and 2nd gear - they're nothing but spin gears. I really miss having the ability to romp around town in my car, as it's only a highway beast now. I'd imagine if this kit had a very small WG spring in it (3-4 psi?), you could just run that in 1st and progressively amp it up from there?

Thirdly, any input/experience with that racelogic traction unit? I think if I do get a Z and go this route, which is the most likely choice at this point in time, I want to run a consistent ~500 rwhp, but I'd like to have traction when doing so. To me, that's worth the 2+ grand the traction unit costs, but only if it's actually effective.

Thanks for any help If it's of any consolation for the long post you just read, if I do go this route, I would feel most comfortable making the 5 hr trek to Chicago to have you install/tune it over what I have available here.

Ron

butt dyno graph.. awesome..

Right from Greddy's website:

Different size turbos to get low and high rpm response is used on in line turbo setups, ours is parallel.

__________________
2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread
[ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

awkwardturtle

Thanks. Facepalm at myself. I googled earlier and didn't see any mention of it.. googled it now and the first link says just that.

And yeah, that's the old style buttdyno. It's off by about 5%.

Feel free to school me on a TT setup. Is it not possible to use a big and small turbo on a parallel setup, then? That was always my assumption of how TT'd cars worked

Red__Zed

Twin-turbo - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Worth reading to get a basic understanding. Most setups for the Z are going to be parallel setups. The RX7 is an example of a car with a sequential setup.

Will@Logic

Good work. Thank you for sharing the build. Hopefully I can get my G37 on the same track as this bad boy .

phunk

Thanks. I still have intentions to add/update my original posts with all the rest of the details

__________________

phunk

It wouldnt really work out because you would build very different exhaust pressure on each side of the engine. You would run into bizarre individual cylinder tuning issues. You would also severely choke the cylinders in the bank on the small turbo side as they would have a lot of trouble breating at higher RPM, making those 3 cylinders less useful.

You could do lots of complex plumbing to get both turbos plumbed to both banks, but its not worth the hassle, weight, heat, complexity.

__________________

phunk

I used a to have an EG hatch, sleeved h22 with sc61. it was 416fwhp at around 15 psi with 93 octane... that was about 6 years ago.

power delivery is good. the Z is a low 13 second car before its turbos even start spinning... so the transition into power is not as extreme. its not laggy at all, the transition is very quick. tire spin is an issue. if you focus on proper wheel and tire configuration you can put the power to the ground. im not sure what the wastegate springs that come in the kit are, i think they are 5psi. i changed my wastegate setup. I think I put in some 5 or 5.5psi in my wastegates too. At that boost, I can hook up no problem at all. So if you setup boost by gear you will be in good shape for traction...

although I would much rather make the car hook up low gears with all my boost, which is one of my next efforts.

The race logic is an effective unit, but I would never put it on my car. the factory VDC is very good if I am ever worried I might be pushing it too hard in the twisties on the street and I want a little backup help, I turn it back on and it does its job. the Race logics advantage is that it is less intrusive when it engages under full throttle, I have used it before, its very smooth. But, why invest into holding back all the HP you just paid good money for? Instead, invest that money into making your car hook up and leave a little on the side for when your R compound tires wear out to pay for the next set or 2.

__________________

awkwardturtle

Great, exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks a lot. What are your plans to hook up in low gears, then? Wider tires, suspension? I don't want another car that is useless in 1st/2nd gear, those are my favorite around town

phunk

Yes proper tires and alignment. Currently I have 305/30/19 RE11s, RE11s are not up to the task of over 500rwhp. My alignment also needs to have more camber taken out. I am going to switch to a 305 R888 on my 19s for daily use. With that and less camber it should help a ton from where I am now.

For when I want to use all the power I will use a 335 or 345 drag radial on an 18" wheel, I will put it at stock ride height, and set the camber at zero when using this wheel/tire combo. Pricing out different wheels right now for my 18s.

If anyone is ever able to adjust the SRM system then I will swap out the rear end gear for a taller one.

__________________

milo

Any more video of your turbo Z?

phunk

Nothing worth posting... Probably won't be any more until spring now... It's gotten too cold for any traction at all! The last week I haven't even driven the 370z. Longest I've gone without it since the turbo install. Buuut since I won't be out driving it, that means I'll have time to give it love, parts, and post updates. I need to get back on track for going after some 1/4 mile goals I had ... Totally just ignored that this year once I got the car boosted

__________________

BattleshipGry

awesome work!!!

milo

What was your best time and trap speed @ the 1/4 mile track?