The TC unit is not really suited for drag racing with a 7 AT. The launch control works with a 6 MT. ( spoke ro race logic about this ).
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07-04-2011, 05:30 AM | #31 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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The TC unit is not really suited for drag racing with a 7 AT. The launch control works with a 6 MT. ( spoke ro race logic about this ). Best time was a 12.81 The car ran straight as an arrow. There was no taction on the line as the launching pad was terrible half rubber and half bare ashault. Best 60 ft times were 2.059. The DA was 1890, NOt good for the car making power. Its hard to belive that you can spin 305 35 18 drag radials !!!. This has never happened before. I also have line lock on the car and the burn outs were great so heating up the tires was no problems. The times went from 12.91 to 12.81. Please not the brake fuse was also pulled.
When i disconected and removed the TC it ran a 12.67 with a 1.95, 60 ft time. when i ran the 12.42 the DA was 10. If you ajust the times for a DA of 1890 the 12.67 is excellant. with a better 60 ft time it would have gone 12.53. Not bad for an all motor car. I race a fully modified Mach ! mustang who had slick's and slinney's. He got me off the line but i ran him down. He was running 12.69 on his best pass. With the TC unit on the car ran richer on A/F. If the track was in better condition it would have run a low 12.5's or 12.49 with a 1.85 60 ft time with the TC on. I had the slip set for 10%. Im very happy with the times as not many cars were quicker than mine and everybody had bad 60 ft time's With the TC on you can drive it with 1 hand on the wheel and it will go straght as an arrow. Now this was the first time at the track and next time i will be going to my regualar track were i cut 1.85 's all day. I will post on it then. the 12. 67 pass i had to drive the car a lot harder than the 12.81 pass with the TC on. Driving on the roads you can not beat it has the car had perfect traction and drives like a dream. All you have to do is go around a nice sharp bend in the road and floor it. You will leave the guy beside in your dust. It cuts the engine power very nicely and give you perfect grip. once the tire's stop slipping it aplply's full power. You can not do this with out the unit on. If i was bracket racing nothing and i mean nothing would have beat me as could run 12.81 to 12.82 all day with the unit on . with 2.059 60 ft times. Now when i get the 530 rwhp GTM SC this unit will work even better on the car. Z
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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015. Last edited by Z eliminator; 07-04-2011 at 05:43 AM. |
07-04-2011, 10:49 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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All the research that ive done indicates that it work great on raod course. The harder you push the car the more inpresive it is.
at the drag strip we tryed a lot of differnt things but the weather was terrible as it kept drizsling rain most of the morning causing the track conditions to get worse as the day went on. There was no sun to dry the track out, Just a terrible day and the start line was just brutal. I will take a 12.67 any day in those conditions. Z
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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015. |
07-04-2011, 06:03 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Z-elim, I never saw an answer to this earlier: did you install a higher-stall torque converter already? The stall on our stock converter is pretty low, and that alone would have screwed up "launch control" if you were setting the racelogic at 4K or whatever.
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07-05-2011, 07:40 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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If you have an auto matic 7 AT it will not work well for drag racing,but if you have a 6 MT it will launch you like a missle. I can hold the car to 1900 rpm on leaving the line with the gas and brake on. (you have to pull the brake fuse or the ECU will kills the motor.
I have a GTM converter. I was hoping for a 2800 rpm stall but it only 1900 to 2100 rpm. The converter took my car from 12.85 to 12.42's. Thats a big improvement , on that run it held to 2500 rpm. ( i data logged that run). Im now talking to pro torque about getting a 3200 stall made for me but i do not have a spare converter. The problem also is that the back brakes will not hold the car. Im not to sure what effect the brake fuse has on the TC unit when you pull it, Going back to the converter, My car shifts harder with it and faster, 0.31 to 0.35 seconds. 1 st to 4th. 4th to 5th is 0.61. It makes a big difference . Over the winter i may send it out to get the stall increased. Its a good mod but refilling the tranney is a major pain, took me 3 times till it was full. Do not let nissan use there procedure for filling your tranney as they drain it and refill it. I was down 2.2 Quarts after they did this and out 188.00 dollars. Talk to Sam for the proper way to fill it. With the TC on the car burns more gas not sure why couild be my heavy riight foot. with the street tires on and set at 10 % it a terror on the road especially from the stop lights. Just could not make it work on the drag strip. When i shift at 7500 rpm there is always some tire spin as the tac hit 8000 rpm with the TC on this does not happen. Can not wait to see what it will do with the SC on 500 + rwhp. Z
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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015. |
07-05-2011, 09:52 AM | #39 (permalink) |
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A little off topic here, but Z elim what do you think are the best shift points for a stock or relatively stock 7AT? I usually just try to get close to redline when I shift at the drag strip.
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07-05-2011, 11:31 AM | #40 (permalink) |
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i have bumped my limiter to 8100. I try to shift at 74 to 7500 rpm .
there is no real power abouve 7400 rpm, My tack is also out by 200 rpm at the top end so 8100 = 8300 rpm. Z
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12.343 @114.14 . 4.5 stroker motor is now being built. Dec 1 2015. |
07-05-2011, 11:41 AM | #41 (permalink) |
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Z elim, I might be wrong but I'm under the impression that you are also running a higher rear gear ratio, is that correct? If so, aren't you concerned that adding an SC will not be overkill? I wonder in general, if you run 4.08's and later add an SC or TT, even with the GTM TC won't the car be almost undriveable? I foresee major traction problems on anything short of drag radials. I'm not talking about the increase in frequency in shifting that such a combination would cause, just the overall driveability.
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07-05-2011, 12:10 PM | #42 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
4.08 gears alone would make that situation even more difficult, and then adding SC... Maybe some have far better reaction ability than I do, but I think first gear would basically be a waste at that point. You'd just click through to 2nd early to avoid bumping the limiter before you can blink. |
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07-06-2011, 08:49 AM | #44 (permalink) |
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Z eliminator: Props to you for taking the time to chronicle your trials and try to make sense out of a complicated product. That it does not make immediate gains on the strip doesn't surprise me. That it is consistent in it's delivery makes good sense. It's a good product.
How well I know how difficult it is to get better ET's through any product. There always appears to be outside influences that affect. I wish you continued success. More power = quicker reflexes. Go for it! Your car is MOVING! Congrats! Coop
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Jim Cooper - (Retired: '08 Infiniti G37 Sport • TheShopCT built • 11.13 @ 123 mph (click for vid) • GTM Stage II Twin Turbo • 5-speed A/T Level Ten built • 591whp @17 lbs boost) Last edited by SharpByCoop; 07-06-2011 at 08:51 AM. |
01-04-2012, 07:22 PM | #45 (permalink) | |
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