How much power do you think is safe on stock internals?
 

Hey guys, just taking a poll to see what people think is safe and what isn't. If you would like to add why and under what circumstances, that would be appreciated. Keep it civil please.

Also, lets talk dynojet numbers so we can all be on the same page and since both GTM and Stillen use them.

I'd say 500 if you don't drive it like you stole it.

450whp if you drive it hard and 500whp if you barely get on it. Of course keeping in mind tune is spot on

FYI for those voting 450 whp.....most of us TT guys have been running around with more than that for over a year.

The dyno photo in my photos was after my first tune and no longer accurate. I have been closer to 500 whp for over 6 months.

Stock power

I voted 600whp because I was voting for how much hp it would take to blow the bottom end:driving:

Guys you need to realize something, if stock can handle 600 HP that doesnt mean that we can go for that route.. comn, give the engine a break...

500 WHP is idle.. anything more than that you are risking it...

450 "safe level" but there a lot a variables as altitude , temp, driving habits, plus some motors are stronger than others

I'd say around 450whp with a generous margin of error (by that i mean atmosphere, driving style, etc.)

500whp is the safe limit for these motors I personally think. Remember these motors arent like the older 350Z's motors where they make a lot of torque. Remember its the torque that destroys the motors not the power.

The Z runs an 11:0:1 compression ratio which is not the best for forced induction of any kind. I know there are many Z owners driving around with 450-500whp but the real question is "for how long?" I personality will be upgrading to the GTM stage 1 shortblock, and will feel much more comfortable about driving my car. I'm shooting for alil over 550whp.

I'm a little on the conservative side and say 400whp is truly "safe." But the question is definitely a little vague as the definition of "safe" is really open to interpretation.

Where you dont have to worry about flogging it because you think its on the verge of letting go.

This true as we are all saying what we have read, have been told or just what we "think" is safe. Only thing that is forsure is that time will tell what the safe level actually is.

J, check ur PM :)

From what I have gathered in this forum and from Seb at SpecialtyZ who has a TT370z, 500rwhp is comfortable with a GOOD tune but I have no direct experience with FI personally. The tune and supporting mods are the key ingredients, but this is purely on the basis that the car is street driven.

I feel 500 WHP and a good tune is the sweet spot for these motors. Like Nismo 370z said, the way torque builds up on these motors helps with it's longevity. IMHO 450 is more than enough for the street! Gotta be able to put all that power to the ground somehow.

450 would be my comfort limit.

100 million WHP!

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Yi-SAlfNx8NYdQ

assuming the tune is spot on, it's going to be the torque that kills motors eventually, not hp.

Yes, the way the tq builds esp the turbo cars. You can only load the rods bearings so many time before you spin one. Also @ 11 to 1 and having cast pistons is kinda scary, knowing what the cylinder pressures are under boost eeek, good luck F.I. guys

I voted 450. I don't feel comfortable tracking my car as it is, much less with 500whp.

Y'all are making it sound like all 450+ HP FI cars are Doomed...

:iagree: This thread is making one think twice about going FI on our cars. I guess one might be better off using the TT cash towards GTR instead and still get the 500+ whp without blowing up any engine.

It all comes down to what you plan to do with the car though, so some of you scared need to understand if you are going to be bouncing off the redline on a track then be prepared for something to blow.
If you plan to drive the car around on the street and have some fun here and there then 500whp with a good tune and built properly & maintained can be achieved for awhile I bet.

This is looking More Tempting, The 12k to Turbo can go towards a GTR..

Exactemundo compadre and it's more like 15k-17k to do it right ;)
I voted 450whp for the Z based on tuner's experience.

Problem is, I still owe high 30's on my car...

Yes you can spend that money on a GTR but do you know how much is cost to maintain that car. Let alone th parts are ridiculously expensive 3k+ for a catback, no thank you I pass.

Ah the GT-R would be fun...I've read too many threads and articles of people paying $2000 for normal maintenance visits. Oil for it is over $100 per quart and it needs like 8 of them. Air filters are $50 each. Add in labor and stuff and next thing you know its on eBay..

Looks like I will be blowing mine and getting a new one ;)

RCZ, I can understand $500 service A; $1500 service B for Mercedes but $800 oil change on GTR seems unlikely. Granted it is a ferrari beater but still a Nissan at the end of the day. $100 - $150 oil change would seem reasonable ;) I would think that the $2000 ll be similar to Service B (every 10000mi or 6months)

:icon18: At least you'll have fun in the process JB

2009 Nissan GT-R: Bargain Supercar Gets Expensive

Some Bargain: Inside Line reports $2000 routine maintenance bill for Nissan GT-R — Autoblog

Post Track Maintence - NAGTROC - The Nissan GT-R Owners Club

Its insane.

WOW... that's insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what were you saying about FI the Z? :p

:iagree:

Might be cheaper to get a used Ferrari or Lambo :bowrofl:

From personal experience:

GTR oil change at the dealer: $150 (under normal driving: every 6K miles)

Transmission service: $1800-$2000 at the dealer (under normal driving: every 18K miles)

Tires: about $400-$450 per tire (tirerack) and under normal driving set will last about 12-15K miles.

If you track the car: If oil temps exceed 230 deg, change oil after track day

If trans temps go betwn 230-260 deg, change trans fluid w/in 1800 miles after track event.

If trans temps exceed 260 deg, change trans fluid asap.

Brake pads last around 35K miles under normal driving. No longer required to change rotors with pads every time.

Full brake service from dealer: new pads and rotors will run around $8K, aftermarker (read, better) pads and rotors will run around $4 to $6K depending on brand, labor rate etc.

For a supercar, it's much cheaper to maintain a GTR than a lambo or Ferrari, the problem is since it's a nissan, folks expect to pay sentra maintenance prices.

I'll be happy as long as you let me experience those 500+ in your used Ferrari or Lambo :bowrofl:

I'll be happy to experience them myself :bowrofl:

FL_Motion, from those numbers you gave, they're really not any worse than maintaining a Mercedes where oil changes were $500 for Service A, $1500 (3000m) Service B (10,000mi), $1500+ for ANYTHING breaking in the car.

Someone at the dealership told me that it cost about $8000 for ceramic brakes replacement, not sure if it is confirmed or not but I would think that for a supercar such as the GTR, you really have to pay to play.

Thx for the great info btw.