332 at the crank.
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View Poll Results: What is the WHP ceiling of stock internals? | |||
400WHP | 16 | 8.51% | |
450WHP | 50 | 26.60% | |
500WHP | 64 | 34.04% | |
550WHP | 33 | 17.55% | |
600WHP | 25 | 13.30% | |
Voters: 188. You may not vote on this poll |
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05-23-2011, 10:05 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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05-23-2011, 10:15 PM | #49 (permalink) | |
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If you put a bird in there, you can achieve such seemingly outrageous compression ratios with great ease. Ok let's get back on topic now... |
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05-23-2011, 10:49 PM | #50 (permalink) | ||
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05-24-2011, 01:34 AM | #52 (permalink) |
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I think it all comes down to the trade-off between more power, a shorter life span. Strongly correlated with that is the $ investment as well as the quality of the work & maintenance performed.
At the end of the day - assuming a realistic tune (on a limited budget) - the trade-off will always be greater wear and tear as 99% of us are on a limited budget. So, really, you probably need to work this one backwards: 1) How long do you want the car to last? 2) How much power do you want? Out of those two variables results the required budget. So: 3) What's the required investment? Out of these three variables you could create a pretty solid (and simple Excel) function (using either a sample via questionnaire or good experience figures from Z experts like Sam) - but it would still not necessarily account for the quality of the work and maintenance done on the car. Sorry, the post is a bit theoretical in nature.
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05-24-2011, 01:54 AM | #53 (permalink) |
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I have a completely stock engine from japan. My first japanese sports car. Not my first japanese automobile. Had lots of toyota 4x4's. Got to say this is the first one I have had that burns oil. Not a good sign at all. As far as putting forced induction on this engine I would hesitate by all means. Not that I couldnt afford it, but just not a satisfied customer in this department. Im sure it is a good engine as long as someone looks after it and does scheduled maintenance. I would not put my wife in a nissan if it requires the oil checked every 1,000 miles. Really like the automobile but they are making it really hard. By my experience I have a 2006 chevrolet truck with 120,000 miles, I run 10w30 castrol, and I have never added oil to it one time. Not trying to talk bad about the japanese but it seems like the technology of foreign cars is coming to an end. I really like my automobile but all the talk I have heard before is not stacking up
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05-24-2011, 03:56 AM | #54 (permalink) | |
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05-24-2011, 05:29 AM | #55 (permalink) |
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You are actually asking the wrong question, as the proper answer is "it depends" - mostly on the duration that Wide Open Throttle is held given a specific power setting. It can also depend upon the load generated in the mid rev-range when you go from steady state throttle setting (usually around 15-20% throttle position) to WoT, especially when revs are high enough for a FI setup to be capable of generating peak boost.
If the ignition map is not top-notch, all it will take to kill the engine is one or two "knocks" (detonation's) - you break a piston, or bend a rod which cause rod-breakage and catastrophic engine failure. My mates at Air Power Systems reckoned on the Z33 that their TT kit was safe (their word was "durable") for ~300kw atw with stock internals. This is ~400hp atw. Since the Z34 shares a similar bottom end, I reckon this is not far away. I am not saying that you cannot tune for higher numbers and not kill an engine, because if the car is a dyno-queen and only ever pulls numbers on the rollers, then the full load only exists for a short (small number of seconds) of time, and you can set knock control to be very conservative. With a more aggressive ignition map, engine life at similar power levels might be milliseconds. IMHO - the question is not valid as it needs to be more fully qualifed, as most of the later posts have indicated ... it is about "how long" you expect the engine to live. RB Last edited by BGTV8; 05-24-2011 at 05:32 AM. |
05-25-2011, 01:14 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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There are few factors that go into what can considered safe whp for stock block.
1.Tune this is the most important 2.Type of fuel being used 91vs 93 3.Driving habits, this is very import most people have 400-500 whp or more and dont use it. With everything being perfect I would have to say 500whp, but hey a bad tank of gas can kill your motor. This motor is very good with its upgraded rods over the DE VQ from before but it still has cast pistons.
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05-25-2011, 04:46 PM | #58 (permalink) | |
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05-25-2011, 07:00 PM | #59 (permalink) |
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That's what Nissan will tell you as they void your warranty.
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05-25-2011, 08:35 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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Haha, or at least try... The law is actually on the consumer's side to the extent that the dealership must prove that whatever they are not covering under warranty was caused directly by the modification you made. Easier said than done in a lot of cases.
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