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over heating issue (40th 370z GTM TT KIT)

Originally Posted by advan37 Over heating and AC issues has long story with almost all Nissan motors , specially in gulf , i think you did everything could be possible

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Old 05-15-2011, 07:18 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by advan37 View Post
Over heating and AC issues has long story with almost all Nissan motors , specially in gulf , i think you did everything could be possible with this.
usually Nissan stock engine need air come through to perform well , imagine how it will be with boost.
My advice to you , add more cold Air ducts in hood , front bumper (if you can see under hood almost no space for the engine to breath) . Add performance thermostat . You said that 2 Oil cooler been installed in car already , where you mount them and specs plz.

Always keep distance in traffic to avoid at least the hot air from other cars and don't Push the car hard in this extremely hot weather.

Last thing try to reduce driving your car in hot climate.
he has 2 oil cooler mounted behind the intercooler, no they dont have direct air flow but combined there is like 70 rows.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:56 PM   #47 (permalink)
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stillen front fascia is on the way soon , and a CSF radiator , actually the problem is not bad its just when the car goes into traffic inbetween 12 to 4 pm , but still that is not acceptable , i will not accept defeat and i will win this battle with this issue and get more TT370Z's in the GULF to be daily driven anytime anyday either slow or beatin the hell out of it , i trust this kit that is on the car cuz it is the best kit in the world and second of all i trust the guy that put the car togather and installed it and i doubt anyone is as good as him amazing prices and amazing finishes ------- > JASON
so plan number one..
1- get rid of MESHIMOTO THERMOSTAT and see if the problem occurs, if it is still happening then..
plan number 2-CSF Radiator with distilled water and stillen front fascia and move the oil coolers to the open ducts although i know the issue is not the oil temps cuz they never ever ever ever ever go above 220 even if i was beatin the hell out of it in 120f degree weather.... if the problem still happen
then..
plan number 3-get upgraded fans and try to make the hood open a bit from the sides while closed , i used do this trick in turbo civic's , not sure it will work with the 370z, so i can get more hot air out of the engine bay , if the problem still happen's then..
i wont give up and still have faith to find the solution .
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:40 PM   #48 (permalink)
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stillen front fascia is on the way soon , and a CSF radiator , actually the problem is not bad its just when the car goes into traffic inbetween 12 to 4 pm , but still that is not acceptable , i will not accept defeat and i will win this battle with this issue and get more TT370Z's in the GULF to be daily driven anytime anyday either slow or beatin the hell out of it , i trust this kit that is on the car cuz it is the best kit in the world and second of all i trust the guy that put the car togather and installed it and i doubt anyone is as good as him amazing prices and amazing finishes ------- > JASON
so plan number one..
1- get rid of MESHIMOTO THERMOSTAT and see if the problem occurs, if it is still happening then..
plan number 2-CSF Radiator with distilled water and stillen front fascia and move the oil coolers to the open ducts although i know the issue is not the oil temps cuz they never ever ever ever ever go above 220 even if i was beatin the hell out of it in 120f degree weather.... if the problem still happen
then..
plan number 3-get upgraded fans and try to make the hood open a bit from the sides while closed , i used do this trick in turbo civic's , not sure it will work with the 370z, so i can get more hot air out of the engine bay , if the problem still happen's then..
i wont give up and still have faith to find the solution .
Thank you for the kind words !!

I agree get the t-stat out of there. I also contacted osrius about fan temp activation and why they dont give a option to turn the fans on sooner, as this may be an option for you, to have the fans turn on with a separate system and eliminate the ecu for activation. As for moving the oil coolers i like the idea as the oil temp being cooler will help out the engine temps as well. On the next set of cars for you , i will tackle this issue for sure
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:15 AM   #49 (permalink)
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it will for sure maybe help out when we move the coolets but again jason ! the oil temps are very low as i said when the issue is happening so am sure its something in the cooling area not oil issues , but as might as well get the full benefit of the bumper ha ! actually i was speaking to our friend yesterday and i told him right now all the projects are on pause cuz i cant build and send more til i resolve this issue my reputation is attach to this issue , if i cant fix this issue my hole project will fail and then i really cant protect the idea that this turbokit on this car takes the middle east heat , and specially kuwait , ppl are fun with it in dubai cuz its totally different there , very colder but more humid , we have the killer dry heat , if u put an egg on the pavement it will be boil in 1 min
but as i said i trust this kit and you so i will do everythin in my power to make it burn rubber in the hot roads specially in the hottest time of the day
without facing any problems
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:09 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Are you sure the A/C system is not overfilled? Check to see if the compressor clutch is disengaged when it runs hot like that. If the compressor is not running when warm air is being blown, it could be that the pressure after the compressor is too high, causing the pressure switch to disengage the clutch.

While driving, it's possible that the additional airflow is cooling the compressed R134a in the condenser much faster, thereby keeping the pressure low and preventing the pressure switch from tripping.

This is just a theory, but it's worth checking out. If you can easily recreate this while idling, you can have a shop hook up a manifold gauge set to monitor the pressure while the blown air becomes hot.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:47 AM   #51 (permalink)
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well actually i wouldnt mind checkin out but as i said it doesnt happen while the car is stopping in a shop or something it happens when ur directly under the sun in traffic , so if i try to check it in the shop it wont blow hot air , so am gana take it step by step and first of all change the thermostate back to stock ! and see wht happens til the radiator and stillen front fascia arrive .
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:19 AM   #52 (permalink)
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well actually i wouldnt mind checkin out but as i said it doesnt happen while the car is stopping in a shop or something it happens when ur directly under the sun in traffic , so if i try to check it in the shop it wont blow hot air , so am gana take it step by step and first of all change the thermostate back to stock ! and see wht happens til the radiator and stillen front fascia arrive .
The A/C problem you are having is because the intercooler is blocking the air flow its huge. I use to have the same problem on my 350z,it would clear up once you start moving and get air flow to the front of the car.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:42 PM   #53 (permalink)
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well here are the updates so far , took the car to the mechanic changed the thermostate to the stock one , i was using meshimoto thermostat, and while he was putting it togather he found the sensor for the temps are lose and not in its place , so he asked me if i was gettin accurate temps reading for outside temps , so i said no it was always either too much or too cold it was never accurate , so he said thats one of the reason's of the issue , so i was wht ! whts that got to do with it ! he said u willl see, so we pulled the sensor to the top mount next where its reading actual air , checked their was was no air in the cooling system and made sure the coolent is measured properly , at that time it was already 4 or so , so the it wasnt the really peak time of the hot weather ,but the ac is 10times colder and their is no issues in stop go traffic wht so ever , and temps are even better ! the mechanic never really told me whts the sensor got to do with the problem ! anyway the test will be tommorow or so in the peak time of the hot weather here where its around 47c these days i will keep u posted , if that problem still occurs the CSF radiator is gettin installed , lets wait and see then .

so i guess my lesson from all of this NEVER EVER CHANGE THE STOCK THERMOSTATE , ITS THE BEST FOR HOT WEATHER , but am still not very sure , lets see
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:03 PM   #54 (permalink)
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thats temp sensor is the ambient temp sensor , and yes it messes with the a/c and heat. If it read that it is vert hot out it wont let the heat be turned on
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:48 AM   #55 (permalink)
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so i guess an upgraded radiator , change the ambient sensor position,change the front fascia in all the build and mount the oil coolers on the side and we are ready to roll ? am very happy that we have an example here to test everythin on it so we can make all the builds trouble free i was also thinkin about doing this upgrade for the radiator ---> Pulling the turbo and wrappin it with a blanket to cover it and all the exhaust housing and gettin rid of the lower coolant house and heat wrapped it, and Made an aluminum coolant overflow/expansion tank, someone else did this and i think it will also give us a bonus ! wht do u think !
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:33 PM   #56 (permalink)
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well this is the latest , went to 2day at the peak hour where it was very hot around 48c , and where its really busy and stop go traffic , and guess wht !!! the same problem happened again , AC started being so hot not only back and fourth , but just went hot all the time til we moved out of traffic , i had a shower in the car , haha , this is not acceptable, waiting for the radiator to arrive and upgraded front fascia , and more tests will take place , ohhh i forgot to mention the coolent temps were exactly in the middle didnt go higher , so for those who say cuz coolent is too hot or oil temps is too hot , both are normal oil 215 and coolent is exactly in the middle., need to jump in a cold swimming poool .. do u know wht worries me the most guy ? if i did everything and it still did this , do u guys know wht this means ? that this car/engine/twinturbo= doesnt work in very hot countries , lets just hope that it will work fine when i finish from all the plans i got for it .
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:47 PM   #57 (permalink)
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I'm following your thread closely. I'm having overheating problems, too...but my AC still blows cold most of the time. My coolant temps and oil temps shoot up as soon as the car is stopped at idle.

We are installing new fans with a remote switch today. Hopefully, this helps. If not, the next step is replacing the radiator with an aftermarket one.
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:11 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Have any of you measured the actual temp in degrees using Uprev Cipher?
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:28 PM   #59 (permalink)
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I'm following your thread closely. I'm having overheating problems, too...but my AC still blows cold most of the time. My coolant temps and oil temps shoot up as soon as the car is stopped at idle.

We are installing new fans with a remote switch today. Hopefully, this helps. If not, the next step is replacing the radiator with an aftermarket one.
are these with the 2010 40th AV. only? because once i installed my oil cooler. i have never had an overheating issue. the on time i did was when trash blocked my intake. Check out the intake inlets and passages. and clear the radiator. Also NOTE: my ecu was upping idle from 700rpm to 1k rpm. and that caused the heating issue in a few situations. Found out it was because the 02 sensor and MAF sensor were both seeing different air flows then the ecu was used to.
Small trick let it idle for about 5 mins straight. shut it off for 5 min. and start up again. and it gets rid of that issue.

Hope my little notes help a little bit.
Peace \./
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:04 PM   #60 (permalink)
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are these with the 2010 40th AV. only? because once i installed my oil cooler. i have never had an overheating issue. the on time i did was when trash blocked my intake. Check out the intake inlets and passages. and clear the radiator. Also NOTE: my ecu was upping idle from 700rpm to 1k rpm. and that caused the heating issue in a few situations. Found out it was because the 02 sensor and MAF sensor were both seeing different air flows then the ecu was used to.
Small trick let it idle for about 5 mins straight. shut it off for 5 min. and start up again. and it gets rid of that issue.

Hope my little notes help a little bit.
Peace \./
By overheating you mean the coolant right?
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