A lot of miss information in your post, you don't have to install a clutch neither you have to pull the engine out of the car . Here is two basic force induction builds .

TT installed out the door 10899.00

GTM Motorsports*::*POWER PACKAGES*::*GTM VQ35HR/VQ37VHR 500HP Package

SC installed out the door 8164.00

GTM Motorsports*::*PERFORMANCE UPGRADES*::*GTM TURNKEY® PACKAGES*::*GTM-SUPERCHARGER BASIC PACKAGE

Sam

Just out of curiosity, I know some guys have that kind of cash laying around for a big ticket buy. For the others though, do you pull out loans for this? I'm planning on getting the SC kit but only a 3rd of the way saved up and plan on pulling a loan for the rest.

Do not do this, just save the cash and buy it in full when you can.

FYI stock clutch will hold up to 560 RWHP, We have tested it twice. one with a 350HR TT and a G37 TT .

We have many customer with Twin turbo set ups and stock clutches that lasted over 20k .

Sam

It wasn't a for sure thing. It was just a though. Looking at different options thats all. It would only take a year to come up with the rest, but I might just scrap the SC idea after thinking about it that long.

10899 OTD isn't bad for a TT setup. I am going to assume it doesn't come with some of the other miscellaneous things like oil cooler, gauges, boost controller and full exhaust system? Wouldn't it be close to 15k with with miscellaneous things?

No this is a basic install without an exhaust sense most people will add an after market exhaust first .

Sam

Good to know. Thank for the info, Sam.

One way to look at it is it will give you time to plan everything out. You can start planning budgets for both a SC or TT build and what each will require and what you want to do.
This might hold your interest and get you to your goal, if that is what you want.

Thank you Sam. When i said this everyone wanted to flame/bash me. After I gave proof i was still getting smart remarks. If you do the TT install at a shop and the clutch at the same time. The labor charge for the clutch is going to be exactly the same as if they did it then or a year later. Unless you got a really cool shop that will discount it, because replacing the clutch does not require the removal of the engine. I said this plenty of times yet people keep saying to do it at the same time like it is going to be cheeper for you. Also why replace a good part? The stock clutch is able to handle it for a while and you already paid for it when you bought the car, so why not get your worth out of it.
Frank

wow stage 2 gtm installation is double the price of stage one??

why? whats the different :s, I thought its only bigger super charger and different tune.. some1 correct me if im wrong.

He is talking about a stage 2 turbo install.

Sam

how about the slave cylinder?

Man, Sam, if this were true then no aftermarket clutches would be available for this car and no one would have swapped. It seems that all the builds I've seen come out of GTM have an OSG clutch/flywheel combo. Why?

Hell, If something ever happens to my upgraded clutch I'm gonna go back to the stock, per your advice, if that's the case.

I don't doubt you can make it last or that it can last if you rarely put those TT's to work the way they should. I don't mean thrash the car either, good driving means smooth driving, but even so, the stock clutch is not meant to hold 400wtq+ and most will eventually slip if not fail completely. Torque comes early on the tt and as you know that means a whole lot more load and stress on the components. Most of the power is made up top on the SC, hence my comment about the TT needing it sooner.

Now as far as removing the engine. Taking the engine out of the car for a TT install saves money because less time is spent on labor of installing the rest of it. Hence it makes sense to remove it. It's not that you CAN'T, I'm aware that you can, but it will take longer and if you're paying labor that doesn't make any sense. Most of the people who choose to do it with the motor in it tend to be doing it in their garage without a time restraint.

Please don't view this post as a :stirthepot: I was just trying to help the OP with info. You actually kinda proved my point though... you posted links that show a TT install is $3,000 more than the SC. Also Flyboy posted his quotes for the installation of SC vs TT...its twice as expensive just to install the TT.

I don't see what the problem with that is, you also get twice the torque and crazy expandability. TT is a great option, but people should be aware that it will be a little more expensive for various reasons. If you don't think a clutch should be recommended and install should be done with the engine on the car, well that's your well informed opinion. I also don't think saying the opposite is being "full of misinformation".

It's all about giving the customer accurate information so they can make an informed, educated decision. The reason why you see Twin Turbo builds with clutches, is because the customer chose to go that route. It still stands that the factory clutch can hold the power. Of course like anything else, will not hold it forever, but not completely necessary just because you are putting forced induction on the car. You would be better off spending the money somewhere else, like on an oil cooler for example. Also, as far as pulling the engine, it is not necessary when installing a twin turbo kit or supercharger kit for that matter. By doing a clutch at that time, you are incurring additional parts and labor. So would it be a bad idea to install a clutch while installing forced induction? That depends on your driving habits. Obviously dumping the clutch and doing burnouts all the time will require a clutch replacement sooner than someone who drives normally. What kills the factory clutch is not so much torque capacity, but slipping the clutch and burning up the organic friction material. Even a lot of the aftermarket clutches use the factory organic disc, but just modify the pressure plate for "additional torque capacity". That's all good and well, but that doesn't make it more durable, which is the point I'm trying to make. The factory clutch can hold the power, but cannot take a bunch of slipping and dumping. If, down the road (20,000 miles in some cases), you do end up needing a clutch, then it's best to invest in a clutch that doesn't use an organic disc, such as the OS Giken Twin Disk that you can take to the track, abuse it, and still drive home on a very driveable clutch.

Again our shop 370Z with our supercharger kit still has the original factory clutch, even with all the testing and customer test drives its endured.

Sam