Maybe we should just all go buy mustangs like everyone else then... I'v ridden laguna seca on my GSXR and that track has a good amount of straights.. glad to hear you didnt have any temp issues

You're being a bit near sighted, every FI car has heat issues. More power means larger combustion which means more heat, and additional heat from the lack of efficiency. Even stock turbo cars can fall flat on their face on track without cooling upgrades depending on how good the stock cooling setup is (oops we forgot the intercooler!).

Out of curiosity, do you have either a Mustang or a 370Z?

So to explain my situation I bought this car to autocross/ and some track time . I do believe the car benifits from an oil cooler so i got one . That the puts me (autocrossing scca ) in the street mod category which is fine but the car is not nearly as competetive so it snow balls into well Iwill get FI like the other cars to be on an equal footing . This all leads to is this car really capable of doing this or should I just buy another plateform more suited . (By the way the 2012's that come with oil coolers are still stock catagory LOL ) So round and round I go GO FI not suited for track NO FI not great in class . This is all great so glad I read what a great track car this is .I do like the car but it is NOT a great car for the money I should have bought a speed 3 !

Have you actually had oil issues at the autox track? I have a hard time believing that you could overheat the car on most autox tracks, which are about 60-100 seconds long.

he wants to do autocross and track the car. it puts you in a tough spot.

when its 90 in eastern colorado I do .Today I ran it up to 250 in 2 mins of goofing around on the highway (it was 45 here)

I did auto-x for a year in the car bone stock, never really had any overheating issues unless I did several runs back to back on a very hot day.

BTW an oil cooler puts you into Street Prepared, not Street Modified - there is a big difference. SM has pretty extreme cars, SP is still very competitive but you are much more restricted in the modifications you can do. I've held my own against the other SP cars so far, but yes to be near the top in SP you do have to build towards the limit of the rules.

BTW an air to oil cooler like most people add is near useless for auto-x as it does next to nothing when you are sitting still in the pits after a run, it needs airflow to work, so unless you sandwich it against the radiator and seal the sides the radiator fan isn't drawing any air over it. The 2012 stock oil to water cooler is more useful in that environment.

Thanks Looks like I was told some wrong info . Its a liTtle bit hotter here than in the Ne but its great to know my oil cooler wont work for the auto X ( I wasn't really all that worried its more for open track days . I dont really know who sells a oil to water oil cooler are they more efficient ? Thanks a bunch I will never go FI if it means only draging on the on ramps and the strip (seems pointless) fun but pointless .I though FI would or could give you a real performance bump but the cost in many was looks to be to high . P.S. how is the car on the track by the by any brake problems ? how did you solve those ? again thanks for the info Patrick

Change the pads, lines, and fluid and you will see a huge improvement!

I don't know of any good turn-key oil to water kits at the moment outside of race car builds so probably just best to stick to the oil to air. For auto-x you'll be fine as you usually have enough cool down time between runs. If it gets really hot between runs just spray a little water on the oil cooler to help it out. It will work much better on the race track as there will be constant airflow. If you are going to be doing a lot of track events then go big, 34R cooler. For casual track days the 25R will be adequate.

For the brakes the number 1 thing is full track pads and high temp fluid. Don't mess around with hybrid pads. For me the only pads that have fully performed to expectations at the high temperatures have been sintered pads such as those from CL Brakes and Performance Friction. As a bonus there are no bed-in issues to worry about. Changing out the brake lines is a good piece of mind as well and can help improve pedal feel when things get hot.

Do you have any issue swapping from sintered race pads back to a street pad and so forth?

That's the beauty of sintered pads, they are self lubricating at operating temperature so there is no bed-in procedure other than to make sure pad is conforming to the shape of the face of the disc (if it is anything other than perfectly flat). Switching back to street pads is easy, just drop them in. If you do a lot of street driving then you might want to re-bed the street pads to prevent squealing but I never really had any issue.

I tracked my car FIed with just a oil cooler and a vented hood And I just touched 250 once and im in New Orleans, La. Drag strip no overheat at all. Added the csf radiator and I can beat the car to hell and it wont touch 230. The car was NA and with the 34 row oilcooler and i could do pretty much what i wanted and it never got hot. When the car does sit the oil cooler still does some good but ya gotta let the car idle and circulate the oil through the cooler. Of course its not as efficient as moving but it still does help. I couldve went cheaper and fIed camaro or a mustang or something to that sort but the i wouldnt have a " 370Z" . My turbo 370 is a monster on the track and the streets dont let thses little problems shy you away.