GTM supercharger install on G37 Vert

Fezzik

The bracket is flipped. If it was flipped the other way it would be completely on the intake tubing. I'm goint to have to modify the brackets (elongate the holes with a dremel)

This is the only way the thermostat would go. I tried the opposite angle but I did not have room for it to go without hitting the oil cooler itself. The bracket forced the thermastat to be too close to th plactic piece. I saw the pics and diagrams. I also had a small issue with the s/c oil bracket. It did not line up with the rear brace at all I had to put it on the other side and use washers to keep the bracket from being torqed. May be a vert difference. Dont know.. Trust me. I spent a couple of hours trying to route those hoses every which direction. This was the least resistance and not rubbing on anything. It only took me 2 mins to dremel out.

fstrnldr

You could be right that the convertible is different. On the coupe/sedan the oil cooler lines are intended to have the 45° ends (returning to engine and leaving the oil filter) pass around the inside of the black "plastic" radiator support and hug the frame rail.

As far as the bracket your talking about the bracket that holds the SC oil cooler and the top of the IC in place. (Z guys won't know what we are talking about because that bracket doesn't exist for the Z).

Before you dremel out the reservoir brackets send me a pic of them. Let me see what it looks like.

buddahson

Nice write up. How experianced are you as a mechanic? I'm trying to guage the difficulty of this project and wondering if this is something I could do on my own (and some help from a few friends). I've done quite a lot of work on my motorcycle and am planning some mods for the Z this winter. So far I've never run into any obstacles I couldn't overcome but I've never done anything as in depth as a super charger.

Fezzik

Well. I've done engine swaps before but this is my first Forced Induction. I'd sa i'm a decent mechanic. Bout the only thing I dont do or have never done is bore out an engine. Its turely not hard. It's just time consuming, Plus I'm fairly anal about how things are put together. Clips have to come out perfectly so it can go back like it was never touched. Again I did it in 30ish hours with the help of a friend for 2 days. This was his first time with F/I as well. I know shops can do this in 12-18 hours, but I dont have access to a lift or shop tools. Just my garage with my tools.

DannyGT

Testing driving mine right now...

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Fezzik

Rub it in. Mine is all ready to go. I even start it up. I want to test drive so bad now. Did you put the bumper back on before test driving?

Fezzik

I thought this was a nice detail answer to someone's question on another board asking why i chose the GTM and difference in the tuner and turn key

Well Valid questions. I am not a specific fan of Stillen or GTM. I have heard of stillen a lot and a little about GTM. The fields infiniti here even had a g37 coupe with the Stillen S/C installed on it. It was nice. I even went for a test drive in it. I've read a lot on both and talked a lot to Josh at Stillen and Sam at GTM before making my decsion to go with GTM.
The Stillen kit looked to be a very quality s/c. The parts looked to be well made. You get a new intake manifold and the supercharger does mount on top driver side. The stillen kit is supposedly louder as well. This didnt bother me when I test drove the Stillen, it did not appear to be overbearing to me.
The stillen kit is on hold and not being sold at the moment until they get software figured out. The problem that people were having on other parts of the board is problems with the tuning. With the stillen kit you get the uprev software BUT you can not go and tune it yourself. It is locked by stillen. IF you want to tune it you have to buy the license for it which can be near a grand i think. Someone has tuned the stillen themselves and its working great showing that its more software issue than hardware. Stillen is right now on their 6th revision of the tune. ALso to get the warranty offered by Stillen yo have to use the CARB tune which is extremely restricted.

The GTM kit is a nice kit as well. I personally like the looks of it better. Less agressive with the s/c hidden down below and the intake tubes looking like cold air intakes. I got mine powder coated black as well. I also put a thermal coating on the intercooler to help with heat exchange. The GTM kit has had a couple of people installed with decent results. The only dyno other than GTM provided with their own car is on Shumby's (myG37.com) and it was on a 6psi pulley. He got really good results. In all honesty I felt more comfortable with the GTM kit. I also wanted a sleeper kinda of car too, so this worked as well.

The GTM turn key kit comes with everything and Sam will give you the updates that will work best for your car. You do a few runs with the uprev monitoring and SAM will adjust if needed.
The Tuner kit comes with everything that tuner kit comes with EXCEPT fuel system stuff (injectors, fuel pump) and no uprev cable or software license. The tuner kit was probably designed more for people who had the cobb access port (but now they are stopping support which sucks) and people who may have already had injectors or fuel pump done. Now if you hadnt done any of these things the Turn key will be cheaper by a long shot. Price difference between the 2 is about 700 dollars.

Fezzik

I had been stumped for 2 days trying to figure out how to bleed the power steering system. Should be easy right? The pump kept whining and there were bubble everywhere in teh resevoir. I check all connections and no leaks. I was pulling my hair out. Come to find out there was a small microscopic hole in the power steering housing from GTM. They had to weld a hole shut in the housing and during the polish of it, it looks like a small hole that DID not allow auto tranny fluid out but did allow air to be sucked up in there. Sam did not that they did have this problem once before and overnight a new part. Took 10 mins to put new part on and all is well now.

bullitt5897

^^^ Now thats customer service!!!

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Shop Cars: 2013 318whp Nismo VspecII 370z *SOLD*, 2009 1000hp+ 93oct 4.0L TT 370z Fast Intentions STAGE 4 #054

Fezzik

Took some videos of break in. There is a fluttering noise above 2000 rpm. Talk to sam and he said that this can be normal. Some cars produce it and some dont. He suggested I go over all the tubes and makes sure all is tight. Will do tonight

I dont go over 3000 rpm in these videos
YouTube - S/c test run 1
YouTube - S/c test run (2)
YouTube - S/c test run (3)

SAM@GTM

A fluttering noise to certain degree will occur, We are seeing some inconsistency from one car to the other with the same components, We are working on finding out the possible cause of it . Here is a video of a car that was delivered yesterday so you can gauge what you are experiencing.

Sam

RCZ

Wait..it flutters while you're accelerating?

EDIT: saw more of the video, holy crap what is that? Sounds pretty bad

Q8y_drifter

Have you tried using other types of DV's such as Forge?

Anyhow, great video!

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G Fo12ce

Maybe your Bosch bypass valve?

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Fezzik

I thought so, but Sam doesnt think so. Its a pretty complicated engine and could be a number of things. Sam has stated that they are working on it. It's not going to affect the performace but the sound can be tedious, but then again I'm not going to be driving like grandma. I'll have videos up of full runs tonight hopefully.

I'm going to try a billet alluminum one and be able to change the spring in it like this one:
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Billet Aluminum Race By-Pass Valve (Polished, Direct Replacement)