![]() |
if its a manual a clutch would be a good add on but you might explode your csc. just a discliamer might not happen, might happen anyway.
|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: In the D
Posts: 3,732
Drives: v8 74 260z ;)
Rep Power: 7251 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]()
if its a manual a clutch would be a good add on but you might explode your csc. just a discliamer might not happen, might happen anyway.
__________________
ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Covington, GA
Age: 46
Posts: 14,844
Drives: Waiting on next Z
Rep Power: 222 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]()
PM sent.
I would like to aplologize to Z1 here on the boards for my remarks for they were negative. Even though they were true at the time years ago. I'm sure they have been resolved or addressed. Sometimes a post strikes an old nerve and I responed without thought. No harsh feeling towards Z1. I shouldn't of brought up old crap. I know I wouldn't want that against myself. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 267
Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo TT
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
![]() Quote:
Hope you are well, bro. We need to get up soon. - J |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 267
Drives: 2010 370Z Nismo TT
Rep Power: 16 ![]() |
![]()
NISMO221 -
I cut this from my build thread, but I hope it helps. Here are my reasons for going with the GTM kit over the GReddy. Here are my reasons: 1. GOALS - I set my power goals at a maximum of 450-475 to the wheel. Though the GTM kit is scalable from 400 to over 1000whp with the Stage 2 through Stage 6 kits, I have found that anything over 450-500whp is a pure waste on the street. Traction issues keep the car slower out of the hole and cause drivability issues that I no longer want. As the street is where I do 100% of my driving, I have no need for anything more than a Stage 2 setup and 475whp. The GTM kit easily met my power goals. 2. QUALITY – There is no doubt that all three kits are of great quality. Some more so than others, of course, but nonetheless, they will all get the job done. The GTM and GReddy kits are both spectacularly designed with what surely looks to be a lot of thought and engineering behind them. The only concern I had with the GTM kit was the spacing of the power train that has to happen. But, I have researched and put my concerns to rest over this issue as it is a moot point and does not affect drivability or functionality of the car in any form or fashion. The down-side to the GReddy kit is the known issue of manifolds cracking which can be a great headache to repair. That and the lesser quality turbos. (IHI vs. Garrett) 3. OPTIONS – As trivial as this might be, for me, I prefer having options for detail items when purchasing a kit. Over the past few years I have learned that unless a manufacturer can cater to my anal-retentiveness and provide a “one stop shop” for all that I need, I will look elsewhere. The fact that I have options with the GTM kit such as black couplers, choice of polished or powder coated piping, choice of polished or thermo-coated intercooler, and optional ceramicoated manifolds and turbo exhaust housings, all at a reasonable cost, was just one more small detail that led me to choose the GTM kit. 4. ENGINEERING – One key factor for me is longevity of the kit that I purchase. A lot of parts are static and do not wear, so with every kit I have researched, these items are seemingly equal when it comes to predicted life-span. But, the major components – the turbos – are what interested me the most and certainly, in this regard, not all are created equal. The GTM kit uses Garrett ball-bearing, water-cooled turbos while the GReddy kit uses journal bearing, oil-cooled turbos. Given that the 370Z is plagued by oil temperature issues, one would think that the oil-cooled turbos would not be a considerable option. GReddy seemingly addresses this with a larger capacity oil pan and optional oil cooler, but I was (am) not convinced this would alleviate the faster degradation of the turbos that will certainly happen without these items. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Age: 36
Posts: 489
Drives: 2010 370z Nismo
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
![]()
I was considering talking to Z1 about installing a GTM Stage 4 turbo setup. But my Z is a daily driver. But im assuming I could just tune down the boost with a controller while street driving, am I right?
__________________
Stillen Gen 3, Motordyne M370 Intake Manifold, 25 row oil cooler, Z1 test pipes, Greddy Ti-C 70mm dual exhaust, 15mm front/20mm rear spacers, RE-11's, V1 detector, LED interior lights, LED tag lights, Password JDM CF engine and radiator cooling covers. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: san diego
Age: 39
Posts: 285
Drives: 370zMT touring sport
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() |
![]()
I think for daily driver, the stage 4, GT30R turbos are gonna have more lag than the GT28, it's good for daily driving, cause you won't hit boost all the time. But when you are ready to play, just turn up the boost, and there you go, but with that bigger turbos, build your motor just in case.
__________________
FI non resonated test pipes, CBE. Stillen G3 intakes, Amuse Kit, KW V3 coilovers, SSR Type F, Blackout headlights. 3M clear bra, UpRev tune, 320whp, 260 wtq http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...ect-raven.html |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Vicenza, Italy
Posts: 16
Drives: 2008 G37 Coupe
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
![]()
I would think that unless you are going to build the motor to push more psi the stage 4 might be overkill for you. Without the added boost you may not get the power curve that you are looking for, end result the car not "feeling as fast" as you think it should. I suggest talking over your options with Z1/GTM to get best advice. Take a realistic look at what your "needs" are and plan ahead of time to achieve that. It is so easy to just blow money on parts that may or may not be overkill for your intended purpose.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 (permalink) | |
Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: ATX
Posts: 38
Drives: Z
Rep Power: 15 ![]() |
![]() Quote:
I'm sure he is being sarcastic with his statement.....unless you missed it! ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Greddy Twin Turbo Special at Forged! | Ryan@Forged | Drivetrain/Engine | 180 | 04-19-2012 09:36 AM |
**{{GTM & Greddy Twin Turbo Kits AVAILABLE NOW @ ViViD Racing}}** | vividracing | Drivetrain/Engine | 117 | 02-06-2012 01:49 PM |
Greddy Twin-Turbo In Development | Buddy Revell | Forced Induction | 284 | 07-20-2011 12:41 AM |
GREDDY TWIN TURBO KIT COMING SOON, pre order from Amplified | LOU@AMPLIFIED | Exhaust/Intake | 3 | 10-21-2010 02:37 PM |
Solved! Greddy Twin Turbo oil temps 220 on track | jayfightmoves | Forced Induction | 22 | 07-12-2010 11:22 PM |