Vq longevity - tt or supercharger?
 

Which setup do you guys think causes more stress on the motor? Gtm tt or gtms supercharger? Car has 3k miles and im planning on keeping it for a long time. Any thoughts?

Both can trash a motor with equal ease -- I don't know how much punishment the OEM motor can take (is it known? Has one been pushed to the limits yet?), but notwithstanding the extra stress of high cylinder pressure, so long as the tune is good, the motor should hold together...

Bang for the buck, probably one of the S/C kits.

Until a roots blower kit is developed, for the best low end grunt, the TT kit is the best option -- but waaay more money.

anytime you put boost into an engine that was not designed and built for it (VG, VR for example) you are going to loose longevity. that's just the facts of life, same as not changing the oil. having said that, you should be able to get 400-450whp out of a good TT kit while maintaining good driveability and longevity, just not as much as keeping it all stock

If you want to keep the car for a very long time, i suggest a low boost supercharger kit ~400 whp.

Given the same peak power output, the twin turbo kit will probably put more overall strain on your lower end; mainly because it produces more of a punch down low. The more peak torque your engine produces, the more stress the connecting rods, rod bearings, etc. experience.

This may actually be exacerbated by the fact that a turbo setup will produce higher manifold air temps than an intercooled supercharger setup (assuming roughly equal compressor adiabatic efficiency). This added heat ends up putting more thermal stress on the piston crowns and other components, as well as increasing the chance for detonation.

In practice, I'm sure the difference between the two setups is negligible. Just don't trick yourself into thinking your engine owes you any sort of "reliability" once you force feed it. 11:1 CR + boost = ticking timebomb. Yes, good tuning offsets that fact to an extent, but the engine will almost certainly fail prematurely while boosted. You're taking an already high-strung, inherently imbalanced V6 and lowering its tolerance for detonation, pre-ignition, lubrication break-down, thermal break-down, etc. Not conducive at all to motor longevity.

Any claim to the limit of any OEM engine being good for a particular WHP or boost pressure range is conjecture at best.

We can look to the 350z/G35 experiences over 7 years and many cars with tens of thousands of miles to see there can be OEM like reliability IF people control themselves. The tendency is to keep pushing the output of any kit and at some point (which varies per car), the reliability will be hurt. None of us can quantify what that means though. Does the engine only do 135,000 miles instead of 165,000 miles? 80,000 versus 100,000? Pay to play is always in effect. HP vs reliability is not a simple downward sloping straight line - more like a downward sloping gently curving line that starts to fall off steeply the farther the engine is pushed.

:confused: after reading some of this posts, i think the best bet for me would be to bolt the z? Maybe go with intakes, hfc, cbe, pulley and a tune? Or is that going to hurt the life of the engine too? Sorry for the newbie questions

in general, no. A.S.S (all stock stuff) is the best way to go. intake and exhaust aren't going to hurt anything, also getting a good tune after you get all the bolt ons you want will boost power and efficiency without really hurting anything

So all bolt ons are not really adding any stress on the engine right?

not really

Anything that adds power adds stress.

If you are worried about longevity, don't touch the car.

I would have to disagree because all bolt on parts are not making the engine work more. Its just making it breathe better than the restricted stock setup. You're not modifying the internals/or Adding f.i to it. Why would a pulley, intakes, hfc and exhaust lower the longevity of a high compression motor? Id like to know.

well you make more power by moving more CFM through the engine, nothing like F.I. but a little. and anytime you do that, you take away from the long term reliability but the difference is so minimal i wouldn't say you'd even notice the difference in the long run

You right foot determine longevity of the car... it could be nitrous,fi, or just bolt on...if you dog it out it will break. Good maintenance and take care of your car goes a long way.I would not put F.I on the car if you're worrying about keeping it for a long time. For any one that wants F.I they should prepare the *oh ***** money on the side. Bolt on won't make it any less reliable then stock. It comes down to how you drive it.

I plan on getting a beater (because I drive a lot for work anyway).

But im hoping I can put a S/C on the car with some bolt ons and make around 430whp and put maybe 5 or 6k on the car yearly and keep it for quite some time.