great results, but kinda skeptical about it. Its like one of those things your not sure about. Im nuts

Yeah i read through your thread. I'm very curious to see what a manual car does on 8lbs, though.

Hoping for at least 420 with HFCs & CBE.

hell ya 420 will be easy. MY 7AT would be seeing 420 at 8 PSI

You don't necessarily need a restalled torque converter, but you should invest in a heavy duty ATF cooler.

VB? :confused:

Valve Body upgrade. Typically consists better solinoids that allow for faster shifts. One of the big reasons for this is when the auto shifts close readline, if you add a bunch of power, you can bang on the rev limiter, causing a performance loss and the fact that faster shifts are supposedly better for a transmission, all other things being equal.

Ohhhh..... duh :facepalm:

I don't think he needs that either. The 7AT shifts very fast as it is, and has full lock up in each gear. I highly doubt you're going to be able to get the line pressure up much faster.

As to hitting redline, tune the fuel cut a few 100 RPM's higher and shift a wee bit earlier -- he'll probably have to do that anyway even if he can get the line pressure up a little faster.

Honestly, I wouldn't even mess with any of the major trans parts like valve body or torque converter given that our trans is a very different beast than your typical slushbox.

I think just a bigger ATF cooler will be fine. Heat is the major killer, so that is really all that needs to be controlled.

i have a tranny cooler installed and will be doing a full tranny flush every 30000km

I'd say you'll probably be fine then.

On your next flush, see how the fluid looks; if clean, go for 400+.

Anyone know the max a stock 350Z AT is holding? I can't imagine Nissan would have built this one less sturdy.

The 7AT is a bit better than the 5AT but this was a problem almost every 350Z Auto owner faced when going FI. Retuning the shift points and adding a VB upgrade was the solution 99% of the time. One easy way to avoid the shift issue is to figure out where you need to manually paddle shift to take into account the slight lag (about 500 milliseconds). The valve body upgrade is actually pretty simple, you just dropped the valve body and either did a swap or sent your's in to be modded. Usually cost about $1k. They do recommend a tranny cooler as well because the upgraded VB tends to make the tranny run hotter.

SUB scribed!!!

Hmm. Well, it will be interesting to see if it makes a difference for the 7AT too... I think some of the shift speed must be tunable as is, given that it definitely shifts harder and faster when you use the paddles.

Does the ECU throw a code if line pressure builds faster than expected?

How much power was the 5AT holding before something broke?

well the 7AT is the same that is used in the 420 crank hp M56 so i think it could handel 420WHP however i was not about to test this on a 2300 mile drive back to canada when i had to get back ASAP for work.

I must say that I agree with the decision you made on that. I watched your thread closely and I was impressed with the results you recieved.
Frank

Thanks toner. If i lived closer to GTM or had a shop close i trusted and did not need to make a 2300 mile trip in 24.5 hr i might have gone bigger boost. i still will it will just be furither down the road.

I say drive that car now the way it is. Enjoy it(which I know you are lol) and see how everything holds. Some people wont be happy till someones car is pushed to the limits and then it goes boom lol. I don't remember what your goals were as for hp but if you are already in that window screw it and leave it alone. No point in racing street light to street light because the only thing that loses is your wallet. You have a hell of nice car thats S/C, that was installed by IMO the best damn shop in the bussiness.
Frank