:iagree: but on the 6spd MT

I don't understand how adding forced induction will affect transmission temps with extended usage unless you're hammering the car...I imagine if you're using it at a track, then you're stressing the transmission more as you're throwing more torque at it than stock, however, cruising around (say, down the highway going 65-80MPH), I can't imagine trans-temps would be any more of an issue than if someone was/wasn't using FI...unless I'm misunderstanding or just way off base?

The trany has 100's of more hp to contain. Does not matter if you are just cruzing or pushing to the limit. The trany offically has more work to do which = more stress on components = more heat. The auto trany seriously needs an overhaul for this kind of app if you ask me. 6spd FTW if you plan on going FI, but auto suits some better, but they will just have to fork out a couple extra bucks to make the auto trany truly ready to take on the added power with no worries at all.

I know what you're saying, however, you're not increasing the LOAD on the transmission, the engine, or anything else when you're cruising down the highway driving like a normal person should.

If it takes 90ftlb to move the car at 80MPH down a flat stretch of road...it still takes the same amount of force, no matter if you have forced induction or not...

Air resistance won't change. Rolling resistance won't change. The only difference is that you have a turbo (or supercharger) in the car, so that if you mash the pedal, it has more power on tap which of course, would stress all of the components...

However, if you don't drive around flooring it all the time, I'm sure the components will hold up just fine, even if you dyno out at 1000HP...

You might blow the tranny on the dyno, but driving it around you'd probably do just fine...

Some people like to enjoy their cars.....If you have that amount of power, you will want to do some 0-60 times and races, topspeed runs that could put a huge amount of load on your tranny. For everyday driving it is fine, but most people will want to put that power to use.

456 WHp sounds kinda high for 7 psi. My guess is the manifold pressure was a little higher.

Shift kit and trans cooler both keep trans fluid temps down. The fluid is actually heated up while the transmission is in between gears. A shift kit shortens the time to shift from one gear to the next minimizing fluid heating.

Freeway cruising in over drive is not stressful on the transmission, but having the AT kick down on it's own under boost is bad. When driving a boosted AT ... always manually downshift before flooring it (and don't forget to hang on :p).

Ditto.

You can pick up a generic ATF cooler, which I would strongly recommend for anyone boosting their AT.

Back when I had my boosted Celica, I went with a cooler and higher stall TC from these guys -- excellent product. 12 row cooler with heat dispersant coating! Worked great! The TC spun up significantly faster (shaving over .5 sec off of 0-60!) and the ATF always looked and smelled as new no matter how hard I beat on it.

JMO WORLD SITE

If you want your TC restalled, you send them the core and they send it back to you within a couple of days.

That said, while the higher stall converter isn't necessary, the cooler is a must! This should be the first upgrade for boosted autos.

If you guys are feeling adventurous, a couple of shops to try for custom AT builds are:

Level 10 Performance Transmission Systems Bulletproof Transmissions,Supercharger

or

Import Performance Transmissions: Remanufactured transmissions for Audi, BMW, Toyota, Nissan, Mercedes, Acura, Lexus and more

Both should be able to rework your valve bodies and rebuild trans with extra strong clutch bands -- but again, the 7AT shifts so fast, it probably isn't necessary. Also, you can probably tweak it further with a reflash.

Oh, anyone know the code number for the 7AT?

EDIT: Found it -- 7AT: RE7R01A

This is another shop I have heard good things about:

517 Trans - Catalog - Infinity

why is the curve so bumpy?

I see this on just about every tuned dyno of this motor... I'm beginning to think it's because apparently no one can tune the VVEL properly...

I'd love to see what the boost curve and AFR's look like and if those curves correspond to what we're seeing on the dyno charts.

I'm thinking it may be the ecu retarding the timing due to it sensing some knock that is brought on by high compression + boost. My car is N/A and the graph is very smooth

I would surely hope not :icon14:

It was not pulling timing.

The question is, are these bumps safe for DD.

Let me rephrase my original post: I have an aftermarket tune from Technosquare. The graph is very smooth on my car and it's not because of the smoothing algorithm. The lumps you see in this engine's graph are over too wide of rpm range to be smoothed, so it's not that no one has figured out how to properly tune an engine with vvel.

New engine management systems progressively retard timing with very high sensitivity to knock - long before you can sense it. Progressive timing retard occurs without the driver sensing it because it's progressive... So the only way to know if it's pulling timing is if your obd is giving data to tell you. I plugged an uprev into mine and looked around. I didn't see it logging total ignition advance. Does it? If so, graph it trough the rev range and see if it's stable across those dips.