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Isayimandrew's Twin Turbo Build

I haven't posted in a long while but I have nothing else to do while I wait for this build to finish up. I have decided to post my build

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Old 08-02-2021, 12:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Isayimandrew's Twin Turbo Build

I haven't posted in a long while but I have nothing else to do while I wait for this build to finish up. I have decided to post my build up for reference in case anyone else was going to do something similar to mine.

Current modifications (installed or currently being installed) on the car are:

Engine

• Fast intentions twin turbo kit
o Precision cast, superior flow, tubular Exhaust Manifolds with stainless steel heat shields.
o Xonarotor 49.48 (HTZ-2868 Billet Wheel) dual ball bearing, oil & water cooled turbochargers with TiAL ALPHA Compressor Cover.
o TiAL 38mm MV-S external Wastegates with water cooling capabilities.
o TiAL Q 50mm Blow Off Valves.
o F.I. 370Z Front mount Air-Air Intercooler.
o (AFE) Advanced Flow Research Pro 5R (5 layer) Air Filters.
o 6061 mandrel bent "polished" aluminum Intercooler Tubing.
o 4 Ply "black" high temperature Silicone Couplers.
o Stainless steel T-Bolt Clamps.
o Aircraft grade "Teflon Coated" stainless steel braided Turbocharger -3 oil feed & -6 Coolant Lines.
o F.I. Power Steering Cooler relocation kit.
o Greddy high capacity cast aluminum, baffled Oil Pan.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum GT/HTZ-28 series Turbocharger Drain Flanges.
o Dash 10 high temperature Turbocharger Oil Drain Lines.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum Oil Filter relocation kit.
o 5mm high temperature Silicone Vacuum Hose.
o Walbro 450 Liter Per Hour (LPH) Fuel Pump & SPAL relay kit.
o Fast-500E "Ethanol" return fuel system with Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer and Flex Fuel Sensor
o Injector Dynamics 1050X CC
o NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs
o F.I. T-304 stainless steel Down Pipes
 3" - 2.5" Down Pipes
 External Wastegate dump
o F.I Front Tow Bar
o AMS ALPHA 4 bar map sensor
o ECUTek Tuning by Seth Stubenberg
• F.I. TDX cat back exhaust
• Jotech Engine Build
o Carrillo Pro H Connecting Rods
o Wiseco Pro Tru Sport Pistons – 96MM bore
o Jotech upgraded head bolt
o ARP VQ main stud kit
o ACL Main bearing set – race series
o Jotech Balance and micro-polished crackshaft and rotating assembly
o Cylinder Support System Closed Deck Block
• CZP rear timing cover oil gallery gasket set
• Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
• CSF Triple Pass radiator and condenser
• SOHO Motorsports coolant overflow/Oil catch can combo
• CWorksDesign power steering reservoir
• CJM Billet Aluminum Fuel Pump Hat

Drivetrain

• ZSpeed Super SIX Rigid Stage 4 Race Clutch with lightweight steel flywheel
• ZSpeed Performance “CMAK” V2 CMAK-OS – Clutch Movement Alteration Kit
• Torque Solution transmission mount
• TWM Performance Short Shifter and weighted shift knob
• Wavetrac ATB LSD
• Whiteline KDT911 Rear Differential Mount Bushing Kit
• Bell Raceworks rear differential brace

Suspension

• Swift Spec-R lowering springs
• H&R 15mm Spacers
• Z1 Aluminum subframe bushing collars

Braking System

• Z1 2 Piece sprinkle slotted Akebono front and rear Rotor kit
• StopTech Street Performance brake pads

Electronics

• Kenwood DNX892 Head unit
• Blackvue DR500GW-HD with Power Magic Pro
• Red LED interior conversion
• Defi Advanced Control Unit
• Defi Advanced BF Gauges – Boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and oil temp
• Innovate LC-2 DB Series A/F gauge
• Zeitronics ECA-2 E% and Fuel temp gauge

Exterior

• Carbon Signal vented fenders
• Paint matched door handles
• Morimoto XB LED Headlights
• Morimoto XB LED Tail lights

Interior

• 3G Custom A-Pillar for 2 gauges
• Kenstyle Red Line Leather Steering Wheel

The car is currently at Jotech Motorsports. I'll update this post as the build goes on but currently the power goal is around 600 WHP and 520 WTQ. The horsepower might go up since the original power goal was just 550 WHP but since I am now having to do some engine work we might be bumping up the power since we now can. The torque is pretty much set at a max 520 WTQ because of the clutch I have.
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Last edited by isayimandrew; 01-26-2022 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Updated build specs
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Old 08-02-2021, 01:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isayimandrew View Post
I haven't posted in a long while but I have nothing else to do while I wait for this build to finish up. I have decided to post my build up for reference in case anyone else was going to do something similar to mine.

Current modifications (installed or currently being installed) on the car are:

Engine

• Fast intentions twin turbo kit
o Precision cast, superior flow, tubular Exhaust Manifolds with stainless steel heat shields.
o Xonarotor 49.48 (HTZ-2868 Billet Wheel) dual ball bearing, oil & water cooled turbochargers with TiAL ALPHA Compressor Cover.
o TiAL 38mm MV-S external Wastegates with water cooling capabilities.
o TiAL Q 50mm Blow Off Valves.
o F.I. 370Z Front mount Air-Air Intercooler.
o (AFE) Advanced Flow Research Pro 5R (5 layer) Air Filters.
o 6061 mandrel bent "polished" aluminum Intercooler Tubing.
o 4 Ply "black" high temperature Silicone Couplers.
o Stainless steel T-Bolt Clamps.
o Aircraft grade "Teflon Coated" stainless steel braided Turbocharger -3 oil feed & -6 Coolant Lines.
o F.I. Power Steering Cooler relocation kit.
o Greddy high capacity cast aluminum, baffled Oil Pan.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum GT/HTZ-28 series Turbocharger Drain Flanges.
o Dash 10 high temperature Turbocharger Oil Drain Lines.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum Oil Filter relocation kit.
o 5mm high temperature Silicone Vacuum Hose.
o Walbro 450 Liter Per Hour (LPH) Fuel Pump & SPAL relay kit.
o Fast-500E "Ethanol" return fuel system with Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer and Flex Fuel Sensor
o Injector Dynamics 1050X CC
o NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs
o F.I. T-304 stainless steel Down Pipes
 3" - 2.5" Down Pipes
 External Wastegate dump
o F.I Front Tow Bar
o AMS ALPHA 4 bar map sensor
o ECUTek Tuning by Seth Stubenberg
• F.I. TDX cat back exhaust
• Jotech Engine Build
o Carrillo Pro H Connecting Rods
o Wiseco Pro Tru Sport Pistons – 96MM bore
o Jotech upgraded head bolt
o ARP VQ main stud kit
o ACL Main bearing set – race series
o Jotech Balance and micro-polished crackshaft and rotating assembly
o Cylinder Support System Closed Deck Block
• CZP rear timing cover oil gallery gasket set
• Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
• CSF Triple Pass radiator and condenser
• SOHO Motorsports coolant overflow/Oil catch can combo
• CWorksDesign power steering reservoir
• CJM Billet Aluminum Fuel Pump Hat

Drivetrain

• ZSpeed Super Street Stage 3 Clutch with lightweight steel flywheel
• ZSpeed Performance “CMAK” V2 CMAK-OS – Clutch Movement Alteration Kit
• Torque Solution transmission mount
• TWM Performance Short Shifter and weighted shift knob
• Wavetrac ATB LSD
• Whiteline KDT911 Rear Differential Mount Bushing Kit
• Bell Raceworks rear differential brace

Suspension

• Swift Spec-R lowering springs
• H&R 15mm Spacers
• Z1 Aluminum subframe bushing collars

Braking System

• Z1 2 Piece sprinkle slotted Akebono front and rear Rotor kit
• StopTech Street Performance brake pads

Electronics

• Kenwood DNX892 Head unit
• Blackvue DR500GW-HD with Power Magic Pro
• Red LED interior conversion
• Defi Advanced Control Unit
• Defi Advanced BF Gauges – Boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and oil temp
• Innovate LC-2 DB Series A/F gauge
• Zeitronics ECA-2 E% and Fuel temp gauge

Exterior

• Carbon Signal vented fenders
• Paint matched door handles
• Morimoto XB LED Headlights
• Morimoto XB LED Tail lights

Interior

• 3G Custom A-Pillar for 2 gauges
• Kenstyle Red Line Leather Steering Wheel

The car is currently at Jotech Motorsports. I'll update this post as the build goes on but currently the power goal is around 600 WHP and 520 WTQ. The horsepower might go up since the original power goal was just 550 WHP but since I am now having to do some engine work we might be bumping up the power since we now can. The torque is pretty much set at a max 520 WTQ because of the clutch I have.
Congratulations on the build, might want to address to heads if you ever plan on bumping the power up. Those power levels I would of staying with a stock block if you’re not racing the car.
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Old 08-02-2021, 01:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
Congratulations on the build, might want to address to heads if you ever plan on bumping the power up. Those power levels I would of staying with a stock block if you’re not racing the car.
Address the heads more than what Jotech is providing already? And I won't be racing the car. The only reason I was actually upgrading the pistons and rods were because when we did a compression test, we found out cylinder 1 was at 140 PSI while the rest were around 180-200 PSI. Decided to add the closed deck block mod from Cylinder Support Systems and Jotech's solution for helping with head lift since we were already in there.
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Old 08-02-2021, 01:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isayimandrew View Post
Address the heads more than what Jotech is providing already? And I won't be racing the car. The only reason I was actually upgrading the pistons and rods were because when we did a compression test, we found out cylinder 1 was at 140 PSI while the rest were around 180-200 PSI. Decided to add the closed deck block mod from Cylinder Support Systems and Jotech's solution for helping with head lift since we were already in there.
Not sure what Jotech's solution is but that will be an issue if not done correctly. If you stay around 650whp you should be OK. Since you are limited because of your clutch, I don't think you will have a problem. Get greedy and it can cost you.
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Old 08-02-2021, 02:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
Not sure what Jotech's solution is but that will be an issue if not done correctly. If you stay around 650whp you should be OK. Since you are limited because of your clutch, I don't think you will have a problem. Get greedy and it can cost you.
I see. Jotech's solution is to use upgraded head bolts (1mm larger), the ARP main stud kit, and machine heads and block to accept the larger studs. There might be more that I could have missed from when I spoke to them about it. Definitely not trying to get greedy on power. 600 to 650 WHP is something I'd be extremely happy with. I'm not planning on going past that number anyways since for me anything over that is excessive (even though 600 to 650 is technically excessive for street lol).
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Old 08-02-2021, 02:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Sounds like fun! Good luck with the build
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Old 08-02-2021, 02:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isayimandrew View Post
I see. Jotech's solution is to use upgraded head bolts (1mm larger), the ARP main stud kit, and machine heads and block to accept the larger studs. There might be more that I could have missed from when I spoke to them about it. Definitely not trying to get greedy on power. 600 to 650 WHP is something I'd be extremely happy with. I'm not planning on going past that number anyways since for me anything over that is excessive (even though 600 to 650 is technically excessive for street lol).
Upgrading to a larger head stud isn’t ideal, there isn’t much meat to justify it. You want better clamping load unfortunately some form of on rings or step decking and fire rings needs to happen. Closed deck will not add benefits to sealing the heads. Like spooler said you get greedy and you will be building another motor, ask him how he knows
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Old 08-02-2021, 02:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
Upgrading to a larger head stud isn’t ideal, there isn’t much meat to justify it. You want better clamping load unfortunately some form of on rings or step decking and fire rings needs to happen. Closed deck will not add benefits to sealing the heads. Like spooler said you get greedy and you will be building another motor, ask him how he knows
Thanks for reminding me A-hole....
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Old 08-02-2021, 02:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
Thanks for reminding me A-hole....
😂, let me
Rephrase it, good read his thread.1- 160pages
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elmo370z View Post
Upgrading to a larger head stud isn’t ideal, there isn’t much meat to justify it. You want better clamping load unfortunately some form of on rings or step decking and fire rings needs to happen. Closed deck will not add benefits to sealing the heads. Like spooler said you get greedy and you will be building another motor, ask him how he knows
I gotcha. Yeah definitely not going to get greedy! I'd rather be conservative and relatively reliable rather than chasing a number.
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nice setup. What part of Texas are you in? I know Jotech is in Garland but are you in DFW?
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Nice setup. What part of Texas are you in? I know Jotech is in Garland but are you in DFW?
thanks! and yeah I'm in the DFW area.
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Old 08-03-2021, 02:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Congrats on the build. What boost and fuel are you on?
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Old 08-03-2021, 10:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOLIO 671 View Post
Congrats on the build. What boost and fuel are you on?
I won't know what boost levels I'll be on until later when Jotech starts tuning. They just pulled my motor to send it off to CNC Werx last week so I am expecting everything to be done hopefully around mid/late Sept to early Oct.

For fuel, I'll be running anything between E85 and 93 with flex fuel.
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Old 08-19-2021, 12:06 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Are there any others who is in Dallas area?
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