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I am not sure what compression ratio you went with. My reference engine is 10:1. It was pushed up to 23psi of boost to make around 823whp. The amount of
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#76 (permalink) |
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I am not sure what compression ratio you went with. My reference engine is 10:1. It was pushed up to 23psi of boost to make around 823whp. The amount of whp he gained going up 2psi of boost wasn't worth it. He made 795whp at 21psi on Ignite Red and that appeared to be the safe limit. The turbos were done.
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#77 (permalink) | |
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#79 (permalink) |
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right now, very hard lol I'm still using Michelin PS4S and I can easily break traction in 1st-3rd and sometimes in 4th. It's hilarious how easy I can get this car loose. Looking to get stickier tires once I wear the current set out but I'm only expecting to try to hook in 3rd or maybe 2nd with new tires. I'm not planning on upgrading my axles and/or driveshaft for hard 1st gear launches.
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#80 (permalink) |
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At 700whp, it is not hard at all. Wider wheels and tires, Diff upgrade, and boost by gear to keep the boost low in first and second. PS4's won't cut it. R888r's work like a champ.
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#81 (permalink) |
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So - for me I ‘think’ I have come to the conclusion that my current Z is going to be a ‘keeper’ so that being said - FI is always on the mind. Would love for the Z to be a little bit faster etc. While I think the NEW Z is nice as well - with current prices and honestly - really wanting a different platform for a 2nd car - I just want to make my current Z a ‘project car’ which has me asking all these questions when it comes to FI.
Right now - FI is a little more down the road - I’m trying to make all the other pieces etc be a priority vs going FI since I am looking at keeping this car as a ‘keeper/project car’ for the future. IDK - though - but @OP - your build is really really nice and clean. I can’t wait to see what your end result is etc. ![]() |
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#82 (permalink) | |
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#83 (permalink) |
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100% - you are a wealth of knowledge and when you say something CAN/CAN’T be done - I do take note of it. Part of the reason why I think - keep it full bolt-on and look for suspension upgrades - it does make more sense than going FI - hence why I look at FI as the last part of the build as a whole. Bc I know its probably cheaper to go another platform than to try to make a NA motor driven platform into a FI platform vs going with something like a manual Supra or even the new Z so you are starting somewhere cheaper etc.
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#84 (permalink) | |
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#85 (permalink) | |
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#86 (permalink) | |
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When it came to the new Z coming out - I was all about it and definitely wanted to get one - but after seeing the reviews have been less than stellar, the fact its more of a GT car than a sports car - I just feel I would rather have my current Z than the new one. I’ve been following your build on Instagram and on this thread and can’t wait to see the results you get etc. Definitely keep this thread updated ![]() |
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#87 (permalink) |
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Got my final tune finished. Dropped my car off a few weeks ago to get the rest of the parts I had planned to get installed this year and to finish up the final tune for my build.
- Upgraded OEM fuel rails to the radium fuel rails - Installed RJM clutch pedal with HD MSC - Installed Chase Bays Windshield Washer Reservoir (since I had to take the stock one out for the intercooler piping) - 1000 mile maintenance check up (oil change and analysis and double checking everything is still good with the new build) Final numbers: 760 WHP at 683 WTQ on E85 Real happy with this build! Went in originally wanting 550 WHP so this is pretty much the final as far as performance goes. Next up on my list for the next coming years will be to get my seibon hood painted and installed, get coilovers with some kind of lift system (air cups, KW HLS), some recaro seats, and maybe some other visual stuff. |
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#89 (permalink) |
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#90 (permalink) |
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Congrats! Maybe I’ll see this thing in the wild someday if I’m lucky.
Ooooo learn something new. Stock ones make brake duct routing inefficient.
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