***Topgunz ROTREX C38R Supercharger Kit***

Spooler

You are just on the wrong fuel. E85 is how folks get the power, even on turbo cars.

Elmo370z

That’s lot of boost for 570whp.

JVerge5363

Ecutek and the BOV

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TopgunZ C38R SC // Rotrex // CJM // ID 1340cc // Walbro 525 Hellcat // Ecuteck // 4 Bar Map Sensor // Z1 Oil Cooler // Tial // Prosport JDM // South Bend Stg 3 // ACT // RT Tuning Install and Tune // Motordyne ART // Berk CBE // Michelin PS4S 305/30/19R 265/35/19F

Spooler

It's because the timing is retarded due to the fuel. 16 psi on E85 should be around 700whp on a turbo car.

Elmo370z

People chasing numbers on pump gas with these small displacement motors.

redondoaveb

Mine made 745 on e85 @16psi

Attached Images

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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

husam2012

Just had a friend buy this kit and install it himself and I ended up tuning it.

Honestly a great kit out of the box for someone who wants to use E85 otherwise you'll need to add a wastegate to the chargepipe coming out of the blower so you can limit boost.
Using the BOV and a mac valve sucks and it's not the proper way.

Aside from that, the newest kit (received a few weeks ago) only makes about 14~ psi uptop with the bumper on. That translates to around 550whp on 93 with really high EGTs and a little over 600whp on E85. Taking off the front bumper will raise boost by about 2-3 psi and add another 20-30 whp.

One big concern I saw is that installing the kit without modifying the front bumper to increase the airflow will make the engine overheat. We got the car to get to 230F coolant temps doing a 0-120 mph pull. Coolant is bled properly and there's no issues there. If you remove the bumper, the temps stay at a constant 190F which indiciates that there's way too much heat being generated.

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Creator of the GTR TT Conversion Kit, NA Record Holder (401WHP)
Ecutek Master Tuner (VQ37, VR30, VR38, B58, S55, S58)
BTWTuning

14Q60awdSPORT

On my 92 pump tune I have zero problems making, and holding about 10.5-11psi with zero creep on the BOV/MAC, And 13psi with zero creep on my E40 tune which is used 99.9% of the time after tuning the 92 pump tune. The BOV was loud when off throttle and at 2.5k+ rpm, so I made a silencer can’t even hear BOV now except immediately off throttle at high rpm, and also routes the air opposite side of filter, possibly helps temps overall not dumping hot charge air all over everything

I have a g37 so a little different possibly but I got a 90 degree elbow and routed the filter behind the front grill right above the intercooler. l get all that direct cool air.
I have zero IAT/charge temp/heat soak issues, coolant issues etc… doing multiple high speed pulls back to back in hot weather.

JVerge5363

Unfortunately, E85 is not readily available in my area.

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TopgunZ C38R SC // Rotrex // CJM // ID 1340cc // Walbro 525 Hellcat // Ecuteck // 4 Bar Map Sensor // Z1 Oil Cooler // Tial // Prosport JDM // South Bend Stg 3 // ACT // RT Tuning Install and Tune // Motordyne ART // Berk CBE // Michelin PS4S 305/30/19R 265/35/19F

DrBacon

Strongly disagree. You have two choices with water/meth injection

1) Use it as a safety. Tune the car for max "safe" timing on your normal fuel and use water/meth as basically an additive to negate any possible knock and reduce IAT's. Marginal if any increase in power. Car does not depend on it and the system can fail without any real downsides.

2) Use it as a power adder. Timing is increased beyond the normal limits of your pump gas knock rating. Now you've introduced multiple failure points in which can compromise your engine if there was a problem. The wiring can fail, the pump can fail, the nozzle can clog, you can run out of the water/meth mix, etc

None of this even includes the fact that methanol by nature is very corrosive. Yes, the water mix dilutes it and helps, but does not completely eliminate the inherent nature of methanol. Everything downstream after extended use is at risk. Seals, electronics (MAF/Sensors), hell it even eats aluminum too. Now, while there is "probably" going to be a negligible effect over the lifetime of the engine IF using a proper water/meth mix and only activating in boost, is it worth it? I don't think so. Just use ethanol lol.

14Q60awdSPORT

I’ve used it on 3 builds and current build never with any issues whatsoever.

You don’t spray pre MAF…

Properly atomized 49% or less WM mix won’t cause any corrosive issues/concerns to anything that it would come in contact with. It’s too little amount, too low concentration and for too brief of time. If you have poor atomization, spraying way too much, have dripping or pooling issues or spray in the wrong part of the system, sure it would possibly be a concern. But that isn’t a concern on proper setup.

Your 1. Is always an option and has phenomenal benefits to heat soak/consistency of back to back pulls. Always a great easy safe option, but correct I wouldn’t consider it a power adder rather a power retainer.
Your 2. Is incorrect with a proper setup. WMI failsafe pretty much eliminates all of this concern and you can safely tune for the increased octane, cooling, and supplemental fuel being added and get great power gains in addition to the heat soak/consistency from option 1.

DrBacon

The failsafes actually have a way to cut ignition with a factory ecu? Because if I remember right those "failsafes" were just a little indicator light if the nozzle was spraying. That would not save your engine if it decided to fail mid pull, or at worse, human error in failure to verify everything is working every time you get into boost.

14Q60awdSPORT

The failsafe has a 0-5v output that you wire into your ecu the same as a flexfuel sensor/kit would, and when failsafe is triggered it will send a signal to the ecu and your tuner will setup the integration into the tune to have it automatically switch the tune to compensate if failure triggers. IE by adding more fuel, and pulling timing and/or reducing boost. Also the flow gauge tells you precisely when/if and exactly how many CC/min you are spraying as well to make it easy to verify and properly determine nozzle size.

The failsafe will trigger when flowing outside of your set CC/min flow range, pump failure, any electrical issues, wmi controller issues, clogged nozzles, leaky lines, or low fluid etc… pretty much any issues that could go wrong it can detect and automatically adjust tune (if tuner sets up in tune) to be safe if the system malfunctions/fails.

It also has a small light i always install by speedo cluster that will blink/flash indicating a failure, the WMI cc/min flow gauge will also flash. And they flash in various sequences to indicate which of the various failures where triggered.

This allows you to tune more aggressively without concerns.

FrankEtier

I routed the exhaust from the BOV to dump under the car but it is still pretty noisy. What is the silencer you mention?

I've considered using the brake duct cutouts on my front bumper to allow additional direct cooler air flow to the filter..

So far no overheating issues on my setup.

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14Q60awdSPORT

I got a 1.5" to 2" coupler to put on the end of the BOV, then a 2" to 2" coupler joint, then a 2" to 2.5" 180 degree elbow. then got a 2" ID PVC pipe approx 9" long, that goes inside the end of the 180degree elbow, capped the end of it. Drilled about 120 or so 1/4 holes in it (none aiming down at the IC), Got some 3" length x 2.6" OD with a 0.8" OD internal hole aquarium sponge filter that I stuffed inside the pvc pipe and then ran some zip ties through to keep them in place. and then I placed a 6.5" KN cone filter over the exposed end of the PVC to clean up the appearance and keep debris/water etc... off of it.

Now I honestly forget it even has a BOV. Probably 80% quieter vs without. Before it was so noisy and annoying in typical city driving, sounded like a jet 24/7.

I got some pictures up on the G forums someplace.