700whp is debatably within the realm of stock engine reliability, depending on how much you actually use it at that power and what you used it for. In the typical
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10-21-2020, 05:47 PM | #16 (permalink) |
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700whp is debatably within the realm of stock engine reliability, depending on how much you actually use it at that power and what you used it for. In the typical Z project setup, 700whp usually cannot be put to the pavement. So even after making that on the dyno, you wont generally replicate that type of load unless doing 4th gear + pulls.
IMHO, I would skip the engine build. Too much trouble and expense, too much room for error. I would take all the money I save and just do an all-premium stock engine setup. Maybe grab a backup low miles stock engine to keep in the corner of the garage, ready and waiting for a weekend swap should the original engine ever fail. Set it up to run 600whp daily (which will already roast the tires 99% of the time you try it below 60mph), and have a 675-700whp high power mode for occasional use when it counts. When your goal is balancing on the tipping point like that, in my opinion, it makes a lot more sense to just dial it back a tiny bit and spare yourself a TON of money and drama over the built engine lifestyle. |
10-21-2020, 07:26 PM | #17 (permalink) | |
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After all the chit I have been through I would say that is a good plan of attack. When you build the motor you want more and down the rabbit hole you go. I enjoyed 718hp daily. It was fun. 600whp was boring to me. Maybe I am just a nut. |
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10-21-2020, 07:43 PM | #18 (permalink) | |
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10-22-2020, 11:16 AM | #19 (permalink) | ||
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I feel like we need a sticky thread in FI that just delivers the following "basic boosted menu"
Quote:
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10-22-2020, 11:37 AM | #21 (permalink) | |
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LOL probably right. Feel free to edit =)
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10-22-2020, 12:59 PM | #23 (permalink) | |
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10-22-2020, 01:15 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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I still feel the 10k/500whp/last a long time combo is very eh.. ambitious. Taking you buy new parts and start off with a stock vehicle, including supporting mods such as clutch, return fuel system with pump and injectors, tuning software, exhaust, etc. Id say its closer to 15k, or the 10k option is "last a short time".
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Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady Last edited by Martijn_b; 10-22-2020 at 01:18 PM. |
10-22-2020, 01:25 PM | #25 (permalink) | ||
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Yeah this feels more correct to me too. Quote:
Working off the assumption that for 500whp the full RFS is not needed, but this certainly could be debated. I think the bias was toward requiring it about 3-4 years ago, but it looks like the community has gotten a lot better at tuning these cars and it has become less necessary. I have run for a few years now with this type of build and no RFS, but I am only one sample...and also the resident FI cheapskate around here.
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10-22-2020, 01:25 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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10-22-2020, 01:48 PM | #27 (permalink) | ||
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Yeah you guys might be right. I did it for around $8.5k IIRC but had some lucky circumstances. I think a BP Single turn-key, Ecutek tune, and Z1 clutch come in right around $10k no? Haven't kept up with pricing and may be leaving something out...
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10-22-2020, 01:55 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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Well there you go! You're good then. Get that shìt done and start
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10-22-2020, 01:59 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Here are my thoughts.
Jayhovah's Forcedhaus and Boostgarten Menu $18k & 2 weeks - 500whp. Might last a long time. $25k+ & 16 weeks - 600whp. Might last a long time. $60k+ & 1 1/2 yr - 800whp. Won't last. $90k+ & 1 1/2 year - 800whp. Might last. Splurge and it goes up. |
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