700whp is debatably within the realm of stock engine reliability, depending on how much you actually use it at that power and what you used it for. In the typical Z project setup, 700whp usually cannot be put to the pavement. So even after making that on the dyno, you wont generally replicate that type of load unless doing 4th gear + pulls.

IMHO, I would skip the engine build. Too much trouble and expense, too much room for error. I would take all the money I save and just do an all-premium stock engine setup. Maybe grab a backup low miles stock engine to keep in the corner of the garage, ready and waiting for a weekend swap should the original engine ever fail. Set it up to run 600whp daily (which will already roast the tires 99% of the time you try it below 60mph), and have a 675-700whp high power mode for occasional use when it counts.

When your goal is balancing on the tipping point like that, in my opinion, it makes a lot more sense to just dial it back a tiny bit and spare yourself a TON of money and drama over the built engine lifestyle.

After all the chit I have been through I would say that is a good plan of attack. When you build the motor you want more and down the rabbit hole you go. I enjoyed 718hp daily. It was fun. 600whp was boring to me. Maybe I am just a nut.

:iagree::iagree::iagree: I have another in waiting and I will not be building it like I have done with my current motor if it goes bang. I don't plan on running my built motor more than 600 90% of the time. I can tell you from my experience that 550 is pretty damn fast on a circuit track. I only used that power a couple of times because that was to much for my talent level at the time. Hence on the road I dialed it back as well after figuring out that I was as good a driver as I thought I was.:eek:

I feel like we need a sticky thread in FI that just delivers the following "basic boosted menu"
I feel like if people understood these basics going in, we'd see a lot more 500whp builds.

Your numbers are way off.

LOL probably right. Feel free to edit =)

Not sure I want to do that. I have given hints here and there. That's about all I am willing to do for now. I didn't feel comfortable doing that.

ftfy

I still feel the 10k/500whp/last a long time combo is very eh.. ambitious. Taking you buy new parts and start off with a stock vehicle, including supporting mods such as clutch, return fuel system with pump and injectors, tuning software, exhaust, etc. Id say its closer to 15k, or the 10k option is "last a short time".

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Yeah this feels more correct to me too.




Working off the assumption that for 500whp the full RFS is not needed, but this certainly could be debated. I think the bias was toward requiring it about 3-4 years ago, but it looks like the community has gotten a lot better at tuning these cars and it has become less necessary. I have run for a few years now with this type of build and no RFS, but I am only one sample...and also the resident FI cheapskate around here.

Very ambitious. I did it for 10.5k, but that was with a lot of buying and selling used parts to supplement it. Would have been 24k worth if I did it all new.

Yeah you guys might be right. I did it for around $8.5k IIRC but had some lucky circumstances. I think a BP Single turn-key, Ecutek tune, and Z1 clutch come in right around $10k no? Haven't kept up with pricing and may be leaving something out...

I have people on Facebook telling me a 1000whp on a open deck fully blueprinted motors will be fine

Well there you go! You're good then. Get that shìt done and start :driving:

Here are my thoughts.

Jayhovah's Forcedhaus and Boostgarten Menu

$18k & 2 weeks - 500whp. Might last a long time.

$25k+ & 16 weeks - 600whp. Might last a long time.

$60k+ & 1 1/2 yr - 800whp. Won't last.

$90k+ & 1 1/2 year - 800whp. Might last.

Splurge and it goes up.