Boosted Performance Build Questions
 

Hey guys I have been reading this forum for a very long time before joining I was so impressed with Sasha's build quality and Product I went and bought my own 2020 Z to boost with that said almost finished with the install waiting on the turbo and haven't installed the fuel pump yet, I wanted to ask since I'm limited to about 500 ish HP and this is going to be a daily driver will I be ok just installing the 340 pump supplied with the kit or should I also make sure I have the circuit breaker wiring harness, and any other fuel mods the main thing is reliability and not braking down when I could have spent a few more dollars up front,also reached out to Joe at Zspeed he hooked me with a stage 3 with cmak delete and all the goodies so clutch is already in. can you guys tell me inform me of anything that could be issue that needs to be addressed now. Thanks for the help.

I'm not totally clear on what you're asking about the fuel pump, but as far as other things you should do or will need -

1) Heat sleeve for the wastegate lines. And make sure when you run them they are well away from heat sources!
2) Heat wrap the hot side piping. DEI makes good wrap.
3) Turbo blanket for the turbo. Faster spool, less bleed to other components.
4) Omni map 4 bar sensor.


I'm running the 340 lph fuel pump and the Bosch 750 cc injectors with just over 500 whp on the 7.5 psi spring. According to my tuner, I'm about 80% duty cycle for the injectors, and could go to about 10 psi which would give me a couple more ponies if I wanted.

Thanks that's what I wanted to know with the exception of are you running aftermarket top hat for fuel assy or the circuit breaker wiring harness for pump? also thanks for the reply

No to both, but the fuel pump top hat would probably be a good idea. It's not that much fun modifying the fuel pump that you'd want to do it twice.

Do yourself a favor and get the cjm tophat. Save yourself troubleshooting and curse words down the road when the oem breaks.

The 340 LPH pump is fine. I recommend running larger gauge wires to your fuel pump from your battery and a relay from your original power source. I also recommend running a fuel return system from CJM. I personally upgraded from the original 750cc's to 1050cc's for the extra headroom, but as others said not required for 500whp. I got away with the oem tophat.. it works fine but I could definitely see how some people break it during modifications.

Well I just got finished installing the pump didn't have any issues the car has less than 700 miles on it so things are still new, I do see how cheaply built everything is and the factory wiring is nothing to get excited about, I will keep a check on it once it's running and if it feels hot to the touch or anything out the ordinary I will just buy the whole return system and be done with it, right now I'm still waiting on the turbo before I can do anything else also FI Exhaust is going to to be weeks away from delivery.

Did you modify your venturi port?

And, while the car is down, I again urge you to upgrade your wire. It is relatively simple to do and is one of the cheapest upgrades out there.

I will order the wiring harness upgrade, I have no knowledge of the venturi port mod this is the first I have heard of it. Did I miss it in the forum somewhere? and thanks for making me aware if its an issue please tell me what I need to do or point me in the right direction so that may read.

Page 11-12 is what he is referring to.
https://conceptzperformance.com/item.../docs/file.pdf

I remember all that, a little tedious...but works really well :tup:

Thanks for the heads up I didn't have any of that information in my turbo install guide now I'm thinking I should just drop the twin pump design in with a return style system and be done does CJM make a plug and play kit? I'm not impressed with that flimsy factory fuel pump assembly at all and feel like it was just luck getting the 340 pump in with generic instructions I had I need this to be a hands down no worries daily driver I can't be worrying about this petty stuff if its only another $1500 or so be 100% worry free fuel system. please feel free to chime in with recommendations I also sent a message to cjm to call me and tell the best easiest path forward on this fuel system drama,and I would like to thank every one for their insight and feedback I'm to deep in this build to go cheap on anything.Thanks again!

Like you I also changed my mind midway through the install, so you’re not alone. You don’t need to go crazy with a twin pump design, but if you are that rattled by the plastic housing then go for it. It does look like a very nice product. If you go this route, you don’t need two pumps. The 340lph will work fine. I recommend the cjm s1.se or s1e fuel return system. The difference between the two is the s1se has fancy billet fuel rails. They don’t provide any real performance benefit, at least at your intended power levels. I have the more basic s1.e and love it. Set the fuel pressure, forget about it. Make sure you get the fuel pressure gauge and thermal sleeving. The install is very straightforward. CJM has a good installation manual which someone posted here. Keep in mind not all steps are applicable. Phunk also sent me pictures for routing the fuel lines, he is a helpful guy. You may need a friend to help you disconnect the fuel line located between the engine and firewall on the passenger side. Good luck.

If you could get him to chime in would be great I tried emailing CJM all day begging for someone to call me as I have a few questions about the SE.1 kit but I never heard from anyone and there is no phone number listed for contact
info,I think I have it figured out now anyway, Gooch you have any pictures of your fuel system set up under the hood?

Try sales@cj-motorsports.com

Be patient. You never know what could come up in people’s lives that could divert their attention elsewhere.

The fuel system is nothing crazy to behold.. you get a gauge and a regulator which I have chosen to hide. And a big filter under the car. Some inspirational pictures can be had in this thread: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...turn-line.html
And how mine looks from the bay: https://i.ibb.co/CQ4m2fK/9-F3102-A1-...F9-D620-CF.jpg

Thanks for the picture ! I appreciate you sharing it, I actually figured out what I needed thanks to the forum and you for consistently replying I really am grateful for everybody's help with this, so should be pretty straightforward when everything gets here I did not order 1050 Injectors I know CJM recommended them for anything under 700hp but I'm hoping the ones that came with the kit should do the trick I haven't read anything negative about anyone not reaching 500HP with the 750's that came with the kit, I know they're close to their duty cycle being maxed out but its not a track car just pure street soon I hope , Thanks again.

You're asking the right questions. If I were you I'd actually talk to Charles from CJM. You'll learn a ton in a quick chat. I'll add this though...... I've probably jacked up more on this kit than anyone else who has publicly admitted to jacking things up. I don't know everything but I do know what'll make you go "DAMN!!".
That said , I'd absolutely recommend going to a minimum of 1050X injectors. I'd also definitely get with CJM at the time I ordered the Return System and get the Deatchwerks Wiring. I'd run a 4 bar Map sensor and E85 sensor and tune for FLEX. I would also opt out of a boost controller in favor of boost by ECU via tuner.
My first build stock block made 509rwhp on 93, running a 6266 Journal bearing and the supplied 740 injectors with a standard CJM Return. If I had a tuner that was VQ proficient the first time and went with E85 then took away or locked my boost controller I could've approached 600rwhp reliably.
Being cheap up front has cost me to this point, the same as a high mileage 370z and the party ain't over.
If I were'nt a believer in the boogaloo and not tending my arsenal and gear , I'm pretty sure I would've spent another 10k in the past couple months making everything bulletproof and sexy.

Everything you said, I was going to let the tuner install solenoid valve when they tune with Ecutek and let the program control the boost I have already ordered the return line set and the twin pump hanger assembly from CJM and I have the wiring harness on the way as well, Im not really concerned about running flex I just want a dependable daily driver with a little power the only thing I haven't swapped out is the 750cc injectors for 1050's I was trying to save another grand, are the 750's not going to get me to 500 safely? I mean Sasha wouldn't have done that if it border line Lean with 750's ? If I'm missing something please by all means let me know this may be my first time on this platform but I'm not new to Boost in any configuration and you guys have been doing this platform way longer than I have. Thanks for help though much appreciated

Id guess youd be around 80% cycle on the 750s @ ~500hp.

There's a set of ID 1050x's on facebook for $500. He says under 1000 miles.

I seen those parts last night I figured they were gone by now, seems like I reached out but I can't remember what they said.

I understand the duty cycle but its not going to be in boost 24/7 @WOT so is there really such a big need to worry that I will constantly be in the Danger Zone ?
(Insert Kenny Logins Pun here! ) has anyone destroyed their motor due to not enough fuel injectors on this same BP Kit ? Or is it just greed can't stop turning it up then boom! Again I'm just looking for Justification if I have to buy them I will. As far as flex fuel I'm curious but still learning I didn't get 2-3 fittings I would need because I was so unsure about what sensor everyone was using And also where should it be placed? Top of the tank, up stream or down stream since I'm doing a return style,also would I need content analyzer sensor as well,finally after all these years we just got a station that sells E85 that's within 20 miles instead of 80, I'm trying to understand if I'm at my 500HP limit due to the block what will E85 do for me just safer from detonation at more timing ?

If you're just going to 500 whp, you should be fine with the 750s.

Let me clear up a couple of things here. You will not be running e85 on the 750cc injectors that come with the kit. At 500 whp you'll be basically maxing out the injectors already but safe enough to be okay. You should just pick up ID 1000 or 1050x from the get-go. You should never limit yourself on fuel. If you are getting a fuel return, why not bigger injectors too? Side note: I've been running 500 whp on my BP kit with ID 1000's with no fuel return. I am going to switch to e85 and more power now so the car was just dropped off to a local race shop to have the CJM fuel return installed. 500 whp is not the limit of the motor. If you want reliable just stay around 500-600 whp and keep the torque low. On e85 even at 600 you will be just fine. You can run a flex fuel sensor if you want but don't need to. You can test tube it on each fill. You can get the Specialty Z flex fuel kit that you can tie into the ecu and have ecutek read the ethanol %. I am on uprev and my local e85 gas station is always 85-90%. I don't have an ethanol sensor and I don't really test it anymore but then again I like to party :icon17:. I run dual maps on uprev.

Proper injector sizing will make it easier for tuning, weather it’s wot or idling :iagree:
Consult with your tuner on injectors needed & fuel volume of pump/pumps
:tup: