Wueros tt build

phunk

I am with Elmo on that clutch, OSGiken will say the same thing too. When we were running Justins Z a few years ago, tons of 10 second passes and the 9.9, all on stock drivetrain other than his OSG triple. He kept the driveline alive by letting the clutch take the abuse and slipping it, never dumping it. So on inspection, as expected, the clutch was really burned up. I had a conversation with OSG about setting us up with all the parts to rebuild and upgrade it to a quad plate, and they advised us against it, say that if we are going to drag race the car often its going to kill the driveline and be very hard to modulate/slip and grab very hard on power shifts.

You may not produce more engine torque by changing a clutch, but when you launch or upshift you are dumping energy stored in the rotating assembly of the engine into the driveline. When quickly releasing the clutch pedal, to instantly decelerate the flywheel you are putting all that energy into the driveline... that is what causes the tire chirp on a hard shift for example, the engine didn't produce that extra bit of torque momentarily, you just offloaded inertial energy / momentum from the flywheel and crank.

I had the OSG Twin in my Z, and it was somewhat difficult to modulate well. I felt it was vastly improved with the RJM adjustable fulcrum peddle. Justins triple, was harder to modulate, so he was doing some good foot work to keep his drivetrain in one piece. Basically his clutch was the same as mine, probably the same pressure plate, just an additional friction disk and plate dropped in.. so now 6 friction surfaces instead of 4. Your clutch will have 4 plates, so now 8 friction surfaces, and I imagine the same pressure plate I had... so its going to have twice as much friction as my clutch which I already felt was hard to modulate well.

I loved my OSG clutch, but if I were in your shoes I would probably call them and ask about getting the basket parts to convert it into a triple or twin. Or at least have a conversation with them to see if they tell you the same thing. Its a modular assembly so its just a matter of if they have the parts around or not. I dont know if the hub is interchangeable though.. I would think not but maybe.

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Wuero370z

I greatly appreciate this. I couldn’t find much info on drivability and doesn’t seem like anyone has actually ran it so wasn’t going with much….

The way the specialty clutch is designed doesn’t really allow for much slip and I already have the rjm pedal. I figured anything with friction disc was going to allow more slip and help to spread that load out more.

I need to call them and see about swapping to a twin or triple if the quad is going to increase stress to the driveline. The on/off switch I have now is obviously my issue as I’m no where near his power and I’m still snapping everything


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Wuero370z

Finally talked to OS giken and there’s no way to change the quad to a triple or double. The whole flywheel/frame is different to allow room for the extra friction disc.
I’m not sure if I should post for trade/sale or just run it and see how she feels. Based off feedback I should probably sell it but damn I want a new clutch in asap


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phunk

Oh wow, I did not realize that the quad plate was basically a different platform. Sorry my suggestions were not useful at all.

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Wuero370z

Eh im glad you said what you did or I would have most definitely broken something else. I’ll play it safe and step down on the clutch. I’d rather enjoy my car than anything else


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Elmo370z

Well I hinted towards that. Just call Joe at z speed

Wuero370z

You did actually thank you! And I would I just don’t wanna buyyy something or I already would’ve. I doubt joe would trade clutches but I’ll give him a holler


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SeeThruHead

Can you deactivate one of the clutch plate combinations, by taking a drive plate out of the stack.

Never tried it, but stands to reason if you can do it on diff clutch pack you could do it on a transmission clutch pack too...maybe. hopefully smarter folks can chime in.
would get you back on the road without needing a new clutch tho.

got the idea from here:
https://youtu.be/nHPQE_aSz8A?t=657

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Wuero370z

I did ask OS giken about that and they said it wasn’t possible. Im definitely not smart enough to try either


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Elmo370z

Or contact Seb and ask about the direct clutches.

Wuero370z

Some updates on my progress
Had my nismo wheels stolen from storage so I went ahead and purchased some rays wheels. Got them thrown on the the car needed some serious drop for decent fitment so I got BC coilovers for the front and swift springs and SPL buckets for the rear. Car looks and drives amazing now.
Couple weeks after my new wheels and suspension were on, a local race popped up that I attended. I decided the 28” tall tire wouldn’t fit in the front and therefore couldn’t run the slick in the rear so I decided to run at the track with hard street tires. My bracket was 11.5-12.1 so I was confident I could run an 11.5 without slicks. Long story short I broke my trans on my 3rd race that event. 1st and 2nd were completely destroyed and unusable.
I managed to find another trans locally with a bad 5th gear but the guy only wanted $300 for it so I figured I’d throw it in and have a bad 5th gear for awhile. Got that trans thrown in (on my garage floor) after a few days and drove it twice before it got locked in 5th gear. Took the linkage all apart and put it together and it didn’t help. Trans was no good.
This time I ordered a used trans off Facebook for $1800 shipped. I also decided I needed a new clutch so started hunting for a triple plate. After much searching I was able to find a used OS giken triple disk here on the forum that I snagged along with a rebuild kit not including the pressure plate. Ordered a new HD slave from Zspeed, new trans bushing and all the odds and ends to change your clutch and trans. I even cut off the input shaft from my OEM trans to use as an alignment tool for the clutch. Worked flawlessly.
Now I’m daily driving the OS giken triple. It is race car oriented and you can definitely tell when driving it. It’s finicky and not the easiest to modulate but it bites so well and feels great under high rpm shifts. I have my RJM pedal set to 100% so it helps a lot but dang the clutch comes on/off hard. Working on slipping it but totally new feeling since I came from a much different style clutch. Overall very pleased with the performance and excited to see what it’s like on the track. I think I’m going to switch to a 26” tall slick and that should clear my fenders and everything. Would love to run a 28” in the rear but car goes crazy if the front and rear and different.


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Elmo370z

Dang, happy you got the car up and running. FYI never buy a used transmission for that price ever again. You got busted upside your head, they are only 2100 brand new.

Other note you should maybe look into a t56 magnum swap. Would be worth the money.

Wuero370z

Thank you, me too. 2100 + 600 in shipping though. It was 1800 shipped. Eh t56 if I was ever going 1k HP but JK is fine for stage 1 tt imo


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chendaxian888

we have a very similer but different list, I went quaifie but you go wavetrack, I also did 3.9
finial gear, I also use full spl stuff and KWV3, but I think our "KWV3" is not the real, best kwv3, maybe I will go order the club sport kwv3 from them. I just called FI 3 days ago they said 1000cc and 450 is very good enough for the stage 1 turbo kit, any number over this is over for stock block stage1 whitch is ours. and you are saying that you gonna use 3” recirculated down pipes tomei exhaust together. I can only say that you didnt do the enough research or I did not, because the 3” recirculated down pipes is made for FI 3" exhaust, you cant put tomei behind it

Elmo370z

For clutches call Seb and see if he can hook you up with a direct clutch. Twin disk should be all you need.