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Originally Posted by Wuero370z Would anyone be willing to drop the part number for their Swift springs? I just got mine in and these things are tiny I feel like
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#1 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) |
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Got a few updates on my build.
I threw my drag pack on and my v1 nismo wheels got stolen so I picked up a set of ray gramlights fxz57 overseas edition paired with 285f 325r nitto invos. Took a long time for those wheels to come in so naturally I had to race on the slicks and of course I snap an axle AND a diff mount first race. Got it home and the diff was just handing by the one DSS axle I have on the passenger side… Had to replace the diff cover so just ordered a high cap Z1. I had a ton of metal on the drain bolt so I hope everything in the wavetrac is OK. Threw it all together with some new motul and car has been driving fine since. Lowered the front of the car on some BC racing BR coil overs. Lowered the rear with SPL midlinks and swift springs while retaining oem rear shocks. Got new SPL front end links as well to replace the worn ones I had. I have that weird pop in the front suspension and I can’t figure it out. I tried the lock nut on the sway bar/end link connection which seemed to help most people but it didn’t help me so I’m just gunna look at it under a lift once I get it aligned. I traded my SOHO manifold for a different clutch just because I haven’t been enjoying the specialty Z clutch too much. Picked up a new OS giken quad plate. Overkill I know but what a beautiful piece lol. It weighs a freaking ton. I really don’t want to go built motor till I see a fair amount of people not lifting the heads at 1k+HP so I’ll just play around with the stock long block for now. No need for the soho manifold so I just traded for that OS clutch. At about 20k of TT driven miles, trying to catch up to you old timers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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#5 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#7 (permalink) |
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I am with Elmo on that clutch, OSGiken will say the same thing too. When we were running Justins Z a few years ago, tons of 10 second passes and the 9.9, all on stock drivetrain other than his OSG triple. He kept the driveline alive by letting the clutch take the abuse and slipping it, never dumping it. So on inspection, as expected, the clutch was really burned up. I had a conversation with OSG about setting us up with all the parts to rebuild and upgrade it to a quad plate, and they advised us against it, say that if we are going to drag race the car often its going to kill the driveline and be very hard to modulate/slip and grab very hard on power shifts.
You may not produce more engine torque by changing a clutch, but when you launch or upshift you are dumping energy stored in the rotating assembly of the engine into the driveline. When quickly releasing the clutch pedal, to instantly decelerate the flywheel you are putting all that energy into the driveline... that is what causes the tire chirp on a hard shift for example, the engine didn't produce that extra bit of torque momentarily, you just offloaded inertial energy / momentum from the flywheel and crank. I had the OSG Twin in my Z, and it was somewhat difficult to modulate well. I felt it was vastly improved with the RJM adjustable fulcrum peddle. Justins triple, was harder to modulate, so he was doing some good foot work to keep his drivetrain in one piece. Basically his clutch was the same as mine, probably the same pressure plate, just an additional friction disk and plate dropped in.. so now 6 friction surfaces instead of 4. Your clutch will have 4 plates, so now 8 friction surfaces, and I imagine the same pressure plate I had... so its going to have twice as much friction as my clutch which I already felt was hard to modulate well. I loved my OSG clutch, but if I were in your shoes I would probably call them and ask about getting the basket parts to convert it into a triple or twin. Or at least have a conversation with them to see if they tell you the same thing. Its a modular assembly so its just a matter of if they have the parts around or not. I dont know if the hub is interchangeable though.. I would think not but maybe.
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Last edited by phunk; 04-04-2022 at 11:56 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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I greatly appreciate this. I couldn’t find much info on drivability and doesn’t seem like anyone has actually ran it so wasn’t going with much…. The way the specialty clutch is designed doesn’t really allow for much slip and I already have the rjm pedal. I figured anything with friction disc was going to allow more slip and help to spread that load out more. I need to call them and see about swapping to a twin or triple if the quad is going to increase stress to the driveline. The on/off switch I have now is obviously my issue as I’m no where near his power and I’m still snapping everything Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Finally talked to OS giken and there’s no way to change the quad to a triple or double. The whole flywheel/frame is different to allow room for the extra friction disc.
I’m not sure if I should post for trade/sale or just run it and see how she feels. Based off feedback I should probably sell it but damn I want a new clutch in asap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Eh im glad you said what you did or I would have most definitely broken something else. I’ll play it safe and step down on the clutch. I’d rather enjoy my car than anything else
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#15 (permalink) |
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Can you deactivate one of the clutch plate combinations, by taking a drive plate out of the stack.
Never tried it, but stands to reason if you can do it on diff clutch pack you could do it on a transmission clutch pack too...maybe. hopefully smarter folks can chime in. would get you back on the road without needing a new clutch tho. got the idea from here: https://youtu.be/nHPQE_aSz8A?t=657 |
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