Wueros tt build

Elmo370z

Your wrong about that. He is already interested. Just have to be ready to spend the money

Spooler

Wasn't interested when I asked him about a T56 swap.

jchammond

Those are the newest 108/115mm version?

__________________
MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

Wuero370z

No, these are just the 108mm early version. Found them on Facebook used so there’s no warranty unfortunately


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler

DSS should be able to sell you parts so you can repair it.

Elmo370z

I would reach out to him and at the very least see what he has to say. I know he is in the talks with another guy with a 370z trying to make 1300-1700whp. Yes a VHR.

gbrettin

This is why I am installing a Winters Quick Change with axels made for sand rails (1500hp+ rated). Expensive up front but cheaper in the long run.

Wuero370z

Granas told me to modulate the line lock.
So basically on the first bulb, put about 300-400 lbs of brake pressure on the line lock, then slip the clutch into the second bulb while still holding the line lock.
When you launch, release the line lock at the same time.
I guess if you wanted to not lock the lines and have less pressure you would just engage the button with the pedal not as far down right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wuero370z

Well the motor let go last night.
Was mid pull against an m4 and lost all power and insane white smoke puked out the exhaust and there’s oil all over passenger tire and engine bay.
Don’t have enough for a built motor so hopefully I can find a stock one in decent shape


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler

Wow, sorry to hear that. If you drive hard a built motor is mandatory. It appears that you do. I just got my used Carrillo A beam rods and 11:1 diamond pistons in my hand
from my old motor. If you do at least that you will be good for a while as long as you don't turn the boost up.

Wuero370z

Sold my v3 coil overs. Too stiff for good traction, I hardly ever corner aggressively so I don’t need anymore low. I’d rather have the comfort and weight transfer of stock suspension.

Also picked up a motor from an auto 2018 nismo. Has some leaking valve covers but she had 22k miles and got it with shipping for 2100.
I’m hoping the swap is not very hard as I’m going to have a local shop do it. I would like to take it to seb but he won’t get to it till late summer and this is my only car at the moment. I believe i just need to use the wiring from my stock motor and I should be good but I guess we’ll see.
Let me know if you have any advice switching an auto motor to a manual car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler

You will need a pilot bushing for the crank. Just swap over your sensors and wiring harness where needed and you should be good. Will need to move the exhaust manifold studs to the other holes.
Should be about it.

Wuero370z

Could you elaborate on the exhaust manifold studs? I vaguely remember one needing to be shorter for the FI kit but I don’t really remember what the difference or issue was


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spooler

Newer engines used different holes but they do still have the old threads in the head from what I remember.

Elmo370z

Yes you are correct me and Al run update manifolds. Just have to drill into the block