Sounds like you are shocking the s h I t out of your drivetrain. You shouldn’t be breaking parts this often. You have any videos.

Well finally got to inspect the car today. It is very weird....
It seems like the driver side axle is stripped out. Almost as if the axle is spinning at the inner joint but not the actual cv joint just the shaft. I jacked the rear end up and it ran through 1st gear with zero noise and didn’t have any drag or anything. Then when I lowered the car it would move forward and back but if I put even a little pressure on the ebrake to have some resistance something just started grinding like hell. It’s almost as if the hub is stripped out but I’m 99% positive it’s not and the axle is just broken.
Very strange but I’m going to swap oem axles back on and see what happens.
I’m thinking because of the stiffer rear suspension and dumping the clutch it’s just too much for these things. Stock suspension felt so much better under launch


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f27ebb2410.jpgaxle carnage confirmed.
Lesson: don’t drop the clutch on DSS axles without preloading....
hydro break setup soon to come


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Could always call Grannis and see if you can get him to make you a bulletproof rear end. His IRS cuts 1.1 60ft with a 6 spd

Those are the newest 108/115mm version?

No, these are just the 108mm early version. Found them on Facebook used so there’s no warranty unfortunately:(


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He is a Supra guy and not interested.

DSS should be able to sell you parts so you can repair it.

This is why I am installing a Winters Quick Change with axels made for sand rails (1500hp+ rated). Expensive up front but cheaper in the long run.

Your wrong about that. He is already interested. Just have to be ready to spend the money

I would reach out to him and at the very least see what he has to say. I know he is in the talks with another guy with a 370z trying to make 1300-1700whp. Yes a VHR.

Wueros tt build
 

Granas told me to modulate the line lock.
So basically on the first bulb, put about 300-400 lbs of brake pressure on the line lock, then slip the clutch into the second bulb while still holding the line lock.
When you launch, release the line lock at the same time.
I guess if you wanted to not lock the lines and have less pressure you would just engage the button with the pedal not as far down right?


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Wasn't interested when I asked him about a T56 swap.

He told ben different.

Suipercharger, VR38 swap Ben? The guy who jumped when riding in his car the first time on low boost Ben? More power to him.