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No, these are just the 108mm early version. Found them on Facebook used so there’s no warranty unfortunately:( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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This is why I am installing a Winters Quick Change with axels made for sand rails (1500hp+ rated). Expensive up front but cheaper in the long run.
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Wueros tt build
Granas told me to modulate the line lock.
So basically on the first bulb, put about 300-400 lbs of brake pressure on the line lock, then slip the clutch into the second bulb while still holding the line lock. When you launch, release the line lock at the same time. I guess if you wanted to not lock the lines and have less pressure you would just engage the button with the pedal not as far down right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Well the motor let go last night.
Was mid pull against an m4 and lost all power and insane white smoke puked out the exhaust and there’s oil all over passenger tire and engine bay. Don’t have enough for a built motor so hopefully I can find a stock one in decent shape Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Wow, sorry to hear that. If you drive hard a built motor is mandatory. It appears that you do. I just got my used Carrillo A beam rods and 11:1 diamond pistons in my hand
from my old motor. If you do at least that you will be good for a while as long as you don't turn the boost up. |
Sold my v3 coil overs. Too stiff for good traction, I hardly ever corner aggressively so I don’t need anymore low. I’d rather have the comfort and weight transfer of stock suspension.
Also picked up a motor from an auto 2018 nismo. Has some leaking valve covers but she had 22k miles and got it with shipping for 2100. I’m hoping the swap is not very hard as I’m going to have a local shop do it. I would like to take it to seb but he won’t get to it till late summer and this is my only car at the moment. I believe i just need to use the wiring from my stock motor and I should be good but I guess we’ll see. Let me know if you have any advice switching an auto motor to a manual car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
You will need a pilot bushing for the crank. Just swap over your sensors and wiring harness where needed and you should be good. Will need to move the exhaust manifold studs to the other holes.
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Could you elaborate on the exhaust manifold studs? I vaguely remember one needing to be shorter for the FI kit but I don’t really remember what the difference or issue was Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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What year did that start happening? Lol “just” drill into the block... no biggie Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Never mind just found the thread. Sounds like it shouldn’t be any issue
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Typical rod failure on the stock block. I believe this was right around 20lbs. Was expecting the intake to pop before the rods but unfortunately didn’t happen that way.
Stock nismo motor going in now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Got the makings of a coffee table. :icon14:
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well I was hoping all my spark plugs would be fine but unfortunately a few were trashed so i needed new plugs. Told the shop to put whatever in there and I would swap em out later but they went ahead and purchased some oem Gtr injectors. Not sure how comparable these are to the hks one step colder plugs but I guess I’m gunna find out. I read the thread where it seemed a mix of what people ran either Gtr or hks but didn’t see anything that proved one better than the other. We’ll see
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Well I went to the track for the first time ever with my “new motor”
First pass ever down the track was an 11.1 @ 135. I was super pleased with that so I decided not to push it further and shoot for an 11.5 which is the class I’m racing at a little event next week. Got 2 more passes both 11.6 @ about 117. I then decided last pass if the night to go for a 10 and snapped an axle. I have snapped so many damn axles. I really need to get the line lock installed and preload this launch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Soho manifold is now 2500 on their site. Damn group buy didn’t even save me anything. Anyone want it?
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If it wasn't for the group buy it may not have ever happened.
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Another track event completed. Ran the 15x10.5 slick at 11psi and it saved my axles some pain but didn’t feel comfortable dumping it above 3500. Had very terrible 60ft and 1/8th times but that mph sure was there at the 1320. Need a dct….
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CUWg05JA...dium=copy_link
Here’s me and blue ranger getting our test pass in. I redlit and missed a gear and still managed to pull a 12.43 at 7800 DA. Best pass of the night was 11.1 at 132 with a 1.9 60ft. Need to fix my short track and I can see mid 10s I bet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Finally fixed my “overheating” issue. I got the coolant system pressurized and temps went right back to 180 for awhile. Took the car on a 500 mile trip up to Wolf Creek to go snowboarding and it ran superb until the uphill climb to the lodge. Puked some coolant out once I got parked and it ran a bit warmer on the way home but overall a great trip. Going to re-pressurize the system today and try to figure out why it boiled over.
Ps. Fit my buddys skis, my snowboard, and all our gear with no issues in the back :) no spare tire+that plastic in the trunk and then removing the headrest of the passenger seat makes for enough space to get skis in. The board fits easy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Would anyone be willing to drop the part number for their Swift springs? I just got mine in and these things are tiny I feel like I ordered wrong.
I got the Swift Coilover Springs Z65-152-090 ID 65mm / 2.56" 6" Length 9 kgf 504 lbs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I thought so. Thanks for confirming Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Got a few updates on my build.
I threw my drag pack on and my v1 nismo wheels got stolen so I picked up a set of ray gramlights fxz57 overseas edition paired with 285f 325r nitto invos. Took a long time for those wheels to come in so naturally I had to race on the slicks and of course I snap an axle AND a diff mount first race. Got it home and the diff was just handing by the one DSS axle I have on the passenger side… Had to replace the diff cover so just ordered a high cap Z1. I had a ton of metal on the drain bolt so I hope everything in the wavetrac is OK. Threw it all together with some new motul and car has been driving fine since. Lowered the front of the car on some BC racing BR coil overs. Lowered the rear with SPL midlinks and swift springs while retaining oem rear shocks. Got new SPL front end links as well to replace the worn ones I had. I have that weird pop in the front suspension and I can’t figure it out. I tried the lock nut on the sway bar/end link connection which seemed to help most people but it didn’t help me so I’m just gunna look at it under a lift once I get it aligned. I traded my SOHO manifold for a different clutch just because I haven’t been enjoying the specialty Z clutch too much. Picked up a new OS giken quad plate. Overkill I know but what a beautiful piece lol. It weighs a freaking ton. I really don’t want to go built motor till I see a fair amount of people not lifting the heads at 1k+HP so I’ll just play around with the stock long block for now. No need for the soho manifold so I just traded for that OS clutch. At about 20k of TT driven miles, trying to catch up to you old timers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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No more torque than I’m currently running. The floating hub should actually help reduce shock I would think Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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