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The bottom line...it is more about the block itself. I may not be able to take a beating at the 800whp+ regardless on how much the cylinder walls are reinforced.
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The bottom line...it is more about the block itself. I may not be able to take a beating at the 800whp+ regardless on how much the cylinder walls are reinforced.
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I pretty confident a properly sleeved block will be able to handle that abused far better then a closed deck block. Just ask your engine builder.
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I thought about wet sleeving as well. But I read, in multiple places, that there are temp issues after. I will be driving this on the road as well and do not want temp issues.
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I have read the same. Most I read about were pushing water. Only one way to do that and that is if the sleeve machine work was not done properly. I would suspect headgasket issues from a sleeve dropping. I am still researching this. Just any old machine shop won't do. Darton East had major issues years ago from what I was reading. The machine shop must have a 3 or 4 axis CNC and the tolerances are a thousandth to 1/2 a thousandth. It has to be perfect.
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Between the info out there on sleeves and the info out there on current shops closing decks has made me want to go my own route and try something different. I think our ideas on closing these decks will work, but I will just have to prove that after the build. -- Or I might never get our ideas off the ground. Depends on if I can get a machine shop with the proper equipment to work with me. Unfortunately I do not have a CNC ![]() |
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