If I took his money tree I would have 5 billet blocks all on order for myself and no need for this thread. Just Sayin...

If this was August of next year I would jump on it with you guys. Just too many expenses right now and I am still trying to pay off the 15K of parts I just put on. Oh and get back on the road with my hurt engine.

Hold that thought, it may take that long to get enough folks for the 5 buy minimum.

If I could get rid of the motor home. Any buyers?

If you did, I would download my brain into yours to give you a head start. I have lots of info I don't talk about. Mainly because I don't think about it until I do. LOL

$9 grand isnt bad. When comparing to their DE block pricing, I am assuming that we are talking about reusing the stock bed plate / main caps? In which case the final product of this block is actually a little more simple than a DE. That is just how I figure the numbers are working out. If it comes with a billet bed plate as well, that is a heavy group discount.

He did mention something about upgraded main caps with it. If we get more people we can get more details.

Can the 6mt hold 1500hp?

Yeah how much do you have to spend

The weak link in our transmission's is the input shaft. It would be nice if there was an option to upgrade it.

There is. Break out the bank account, billet parts. Or move to a stand-alone to help manage the torque and boost off the line. Y’all spend so much time and effort into making huge power but miss the elephant in the room.

Straight answer, Noop.

Our input shafts will break at 650hp. If you shock load the input shaft it will snap like a twig. One day mine will break.

This is alien territory. Going to have to start having 1 off parts being made. Test, break, replace, test, #]^*} shyte, replace until it start to work

With a stand-alone you can leave the line with as little or as much boost as you want. Technically you could launch a 1,000whp Z on stock axles with breaking much. For example leave the line at 6k making only 2-5 psi, the. Aggressively ramp in the boost. All depends if your tuner is willing to work with you while test and R&D. Communication is going to be huge for you if you go this route.

All it takes is cubic dollars. :shakes head:

Yeap, I have enough knowledge know how to build such a beast. 1500hp The problem is money. I would need 125k just for the build. The next question, will it live long. LOL 1000hp cars aren't making it off the dyno good at the moment without the Headgaskets popping.

LOL, I guess you didn't understand what I was saying. If you have a high HP Z and are at a sticky drag strip. You will break the input shaft when you shift to the next gear. Already happened.

Marky broke his in 5th when the rear tires bounced over a bump. :icon14:

It can take a decent pounding when I broke mine it was after countless powershifting/flatfoot shifting. I use to beat the hell out of it sounded like a sledgehammer almost 20k miles. You have more power than what I had back in the day time will tell how long it will last.

Yeap, that is a classic shock load. Hooked up, Bump, Spin, don't let off, Hooked up hard again. Broke...

I will just laugh if it happens. Call the wife to come get me so I can come home to get my truck and trailer.

You can adjust power inbetween shifts and rpms. Motec professing is very fast. Isn’t ideal but can be done for testing and to work out all the bugs

At less than $2000 brand new, these transmissions are pretty expendable. It can be replaced for a similar cost as your tires for an event.

My black hole will bottom out or should I say super nova with the build I am doing and my car is a track car so I am already way over the top!

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Spooler speaks the truth!

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This stuff is expensive, but so is moving on.

(begin off topic rant)

I bought a new Mustang GT 6MT in 2015. I modified it similar to how my 370z was at the time (bolt-on FI, wheels/tires, mild suspension for daily driving, fuel system and tuning, exhaust/clutch). It made 815whp at 12psi on the stock engine, and at that power its about as dependable as a 370z at maybe 725whp stock engine. Similar performance between the 2 as well (it just barely inched away from Justins Z running at 700whp).

Lately I have considered selling that Mustang. Based on the going rate for one setup like it, I stand to lose $35,000 - $38,000 in depreciation (car+mods-sale value). I have about 24,000 miles on that car. So I paid 35+ to drive that car for 24,000 miles, and it really doesnt have much on a 370z, if anything at all. A slightly better stereo and nicer seats. If I had at least purchased the auto, it would be quite a bit quicker at the drag strip. But mine is manual trans.

Moving to other platforms can look like a better value from the outside sometimes. And they might have been, had you not already owned a 370z. But imagine what I could have done with 65 grand into my 370z over 4 years. I think I would have had to start stuffing wads of cash in the glovebox to even put that kind of money into it. It certainly would have been a much wiser business decision for me.

Sometimes it sounds insane to put 30-40g into building a engine and trans setup for your car... but that is merely the depreciation you will eat moving on to a new platform. We just need something like this billet block (or figure out a complete solution for the cast block) so that we can truly reap the benefits of building these, spending some quality time behind the wheel. Dealing with broken transmissions, axles, whatever you can think of... sounds like a complete JOY to me, because that means the glass ceiling has been broken. That other stuff is more typical and expected costs of racing.

(end off topic)

Idk 5.0 + a whipple dont sound to bad right now. jkjk Ive had my z 5yrs and love it. Ive been saving for years and been on this forum for as long as ive had the car. Cant decide on a very well rounded street/occasional track car or just all out drag roll racing monster either way I hope yall saved some room in that rabbit hole.

Come on Down and waller in it with us.

I think we are at the point of a solution. I have talked to several folks. We shall see. This is my research phase of my next motor build. I want to have everything at the machine shop in 1 1/2 yrs. The billet block sure would help move things along and we would get to skip the step of finding out when the stock block tanks.

By the way. One car already has what I think the solution will be. He has been on the sidelines due to a broken input shaft and then a freaking car wreck with an 18 wheeler. MA-Motorsports built his car.

We can't leave out SOHO. They have 2 somethings in the works. Guess we will find out when they know for sure.

Edgar Charles poe

I'm sure this will be kept top secret.

If someone comes out later and be like we O.Ring the heads and blocked to create a better seal I will:inoutroflpuke:

As I have said it is cheaper to keep her especially because she is still sexy, doesn't talk back or cheats on me. I have thoughts all the time about other cars but at $50k plus there is nothing I want to put me in debt to lose more money. Anyway I slice it I am way ahead building a motor than buying something newer, slower car that will not excite my senses as much unless I want to drop six figures....and I don't. I am in month 12 of my wait and I am in no rush as I am hopeful that a solution will be soon daylighted.

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I agree but Z owners can't keep their mouths shut!!!

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Noop, the block was sleeved. I forgot the name of the sleeves though. He also has a Bryant racing crank. It is a 4.0 liter. They were
not Darton MID sleeves I don't think. It started with an L, I think.... Not sure if they left any protrusion either for better clamping force
and fire ring seal. What headgaskets, I don't know either.

The same machine shop that built my engine did his. They are no joke. Take a while but who cares...

I really hope it works and it just not another failure on a long list of VQ's dating back to 350'z. I have seen so many fail or make well north of 800whp and disappear. One thing they all have in common head gasket/ pushing coolant.

Its probably a LA Sleeves liner, which I was just telling Seb that is going to be my last effort on the cast block. The last thing I can think of trying is to get rid of the aluminum at the top of the liner, which forms the deck surface. Just bore out the stock liners and put in some dry sleeves that go all the way to the top of the deck. If that doesnt fix it, I am done with that block!

This has been done though, I dont recall by who, or when, or if its being pushed very hard or not.

Even with that, I will still want to perform the other things we worked out to increase the rigidity of the block. Because high power VQ have also been split right down the center of the V before, and no cylinder liner is going to address that.