Yeah, I got as close as I felt comfortable getting. I essentially did my best to round out that rectangle-ish hole there to fit a 3.5" silicone tube through. It has enough pliability to let me bend it to the Supercharger inlet. The problem being that with the pliability, comes collapse-ability... I haven't had the time I've wanted to work on a fix yet. My current setup collapses right around 10psi.

The reason that this is dangerous is because when the tube un-collapses, fuel may not be able to compensate fast enough to prevent the car from leaning out. Hence why I haven't taken it out for much datalogging lately.

Would you be interested in sharing your design file or at least an STL of the design? I have a spool of carbon fiber nylon that I would like to make the part with.

Hey man, you helped me out early on, so I can probably work with you on getting you something. I just don’t want to give away all the hard work to someone who might try to do something with it that I wouldn’t approve of. I’ve gotten mostly laughs and disbelief comments. Those comments got more likes than my posts of the design or data I posted. So I’m not really eager to share anything at this point. There a few guys who get it, and I’m fine helping them out and sharing things. I’ll email you!

Bens version 2. Just noticed this new video.

https://youtu.be/6YVHLzsSg4A

That looks really interesting. Made out of fiberglass definitely gives it more rigidity than silicone haha

Ben's intake doesn't seem to clear the driver side bumper mount (could be a bad camera angle) and his core support is all cut up. Also, are his A/C lines gone?

AC lines are still there. Pause at the 15 second point to see them. He is doing great work, but I (and some others) don't like how much was cut to make it fit.

Keep it pushing guys. Trial and error is gonna be a normal thing when breaking the norm. Don't let some people on the forum sway you from what you are trying to accomplish, I am positive there are other people out there like me waiting patiently to see the fruits of your labor.

It just looks like fiberglass. It was printed in ABS and then coated with clear epoxy.

That placement looks a little less than ideal, hit a small puddle and you're hydrolocked.

The inner liner of the wheel has a triangle-ish point on the bottom that mates to the front bumper cover. There are some holes in it, but you should be safe as long as you don't submerge it for more than a few seconds. Thos holes could be sealed up pretty easily too, if desired for a little extra protection.

You all know I am a huge advocate of outside the box ingenuity. This thing will probably breath very well. It definitely will only be palatable to a certain group of enthusiast who dont care what they need to do to get the job done because the amount of material and support structure that was removed is pretty intense. I hope the hood latch support has enough material to not give way at high speeds and the hood doesnt end up over the windshield. Also, it is going to be tough to get someone to buy your car unless all of that is replaced before selling.

As for hyrdo-locking, maybe i'm off base, but i'm not sure that it is so easily achieved. I believe one would need to pretty much submerge the entire filter for it to happen. Otherwise, if the filter is just partially submerged, that means a section of it is still exposed to the atmosphere. And considering that water is so much heavier than air, the air will be sucked in much more easily than the water. Plus, if you are driving through a puddle, you would (should) be going slow and at a low engine RPM which means low blower speed which means not a ton of flow through the filter. The less flow, the less likely the heavy water will be picked up. With that said, I would be more comfortable w/ a filter that is a bit higher off the road. Just my 2c.

I have definitely seen a few posts about people hydrolocking with injen intakes which is placed very similarly. However, we obviously don't know the actual circumstances behind it.

This car has been all kinds of hacked up. No one should ever need to do this now, but Ben was the 1st do go at it, so good for him. If you watch the other videos he's made, the bumper uses clips and snaps, none of which are stock. All the OE points are gone. The hood also does not use the stock latch. You can see hood pins in red in the video. That should at least prevent any hood snaps.

Another video from Ben showing the design, talking about scanning the car, and printer working.

https://youtu.be/DY5cE-lR9yw

I agree with this piece, which is why we're trying to do something similar to what you are putting together for your kits, albeit a little more crude. The goal was to hack away as little as possible while freeing up as much breathing surface area as possible.

I hear ya bud. There's only so much that is possible in an envelope of dimensions.

Disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about.

Just to add to the discussion, I made a video of the intake. I'm printing it now and may need to make some changes.

My philosophy with this design was to create a 4" diameter intake if possible and to keep the airspeed constant. By keeping the square area, and hence the volume of the intake consistent, I hoped to accomplish that. I dont think Ben's 3D printed intake took the same approach. His looked more like it was designed free-form, by hand.

This is a video of version 2. Version 1 was all done with solid modeling, whereas this new version uses surface modeling, and then thickens the part to create a solid model. Precise sketches are created for the actual shape and maintain the square area. Lofting is then used to smoothly transition from one shape to the next. In the end, I specifically transition to a 3.5" diameter round shape to match the SC inlet.

If you look at the lower right-hand corner of the video, you'll see the diameter and square area for each of the sketches that make up the intake.

https://youtu.be/8ElWbGIkLNc

That looks promising. Look forward to seeing the finished product.

SOHO tightened my belt, even though at first they thought it was fine. Up until they tightened it, boost was still dropping up top, just a tad. So to those who are losing even a small amount of boost, might just need a tighter belt. Posting log data showing boost till redline. Boost gauge read 15.2 psi which is even a bit lower than the ECUTEK log data of 30.2 psi absolute pressure.

Gauge pressure is different then absolute pressure. They will never read the same.

The simplest way to explain the difference between the two is that absolute pressure uses absolute zero as its zero point, while gauge pressure uses atmospheric pressure as its zero point. Due to varying atmospheric pressure, gauge pressure measurement is not precise, while absolute pressure is always definite

Agree here. Your gauge/meter is probably off by maybe .2/.3 psi, depending on height above sea level. At sea level, atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi.

I was just reporting the readings, and making a point that I wasn’t even selecting the highest one, since there was a lot of disbelief over my numbers. Having said that, Eugene says boost recorded by dynos are typically lower because they use a longer vacuum tube to reach their sensor. Vacuum loss over longer runs. I still hit high 14’s on the dyno I believe. I don’t understand why an unknown dyno with unknown sensors and vacuum tube length is somehow more believable or comparable than the equipment virtually everyone here owns. Probably a 4 bar OMNI-Power sensor, a couple feet of tube, and ECUTEK software. These are all constants, so why not rely on them instead of insisting on boost numbers from a dyno?

I know reading boost numbers is nice. But where it all matters is how much its laying down on the dyno. Do you have those results?

I would take my own pressure meter and ECU readings over a dyno vacuum tube any day!

½ of them. Right now I just have the E53 dyno. When I asked why just 53% Ethanol, they said to keep it safe for a long life. I don’t know... but I’m very happy with what I got.

With my intake and filter, 9 psi pulley, and On E53, I made 618 WHP and 452 WTQ @ 14.7 psi. I’m guessing that’s a boost record for a filtered 9 psi pulley setup. I don’t even see turbo guards making that kind of boost.

I hope to be in that area of power and pressure once I'm done with tuning. Likely mid-March after gallery gaskets get done, will I be able to hit the dyno.

Looks great!

Yes, that's awesome! Any thought as to what the pump gas numbers would be? Is it 93 octane in your area?

Thank you sir! :) It is 93, and it should be in the 550+ WHP. Not sure on TQ. I’ll post it once I receive the plot.

Here it is on the dyno. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xszPWzswNU

Back on topic... I've ordered a new printer that will allow me to print in more heat resistant and much stronger materials. Specifically Nylon, and the one I'm most excited about, Polycarbonate.

Nylon is nice. Thats what I am using. It flexes some if you need it. I added in the glass fill so it can withstand even higher temps. PCarb is going to be super rigid and brittle but strong as hell. Its all application specific I guess.

Is that timing on pump gas or ethanol? That's some insane timing advance

It must be on pump. I know at least with mine (I have 91 octane) it had to be timed for pump or it would get bad knock if timing was set for e85. That's why I did the wastegate set up.

For your cannon intake? I know you said you don’t think there are any 3D materials that will stand up to the heat and cold over a long time.

I have a flex fuel tune. I’m pretty sure timing and fuel are set for pump and e85, and then interpolated for whatever mix you end up using. Obviously fuel has to work this way, and I assume timing works the same way. Tune for best and worst fuel case and interpolate the points for the mixtures of each fuel type.

You could be right, that's above my pay grade. :rofl2: I actually misspoke. I was thinking boost. Unfortunately, on 91 octane my car started knocking at 13 psi without pulling a bunch of timing.

Alright, in that case I don’t have that data. That being 14.7 psi on pump. That would have been the boost on pump, yes. I do not know how the timing and knock were addressed. Maybe not very well? I don’t have the pump pull dyno yet or any pump logs to check for what the timing did. I have heard that kind of boost on pump really does not work well. Luckily though there is e85 all around me.

You're lucky. You at least have 93 octane if you need to run pump gas. There's no way i could run 14.7 psi on 91. But yeah, I run e85 most of the time. I only run a tank of pump gas once in a while to clean the fuel system out.

Have there been any new updates to any of this?

I'm taking the car apart soon for some fuel upgrades and wanting to kill this filter while I'm in there, it's hilariously clogged making at most ~7-8psi with some insane belt slip that I'm almost certain is caused by the supercharger choking. I took off the bumper earlier today and was looking at what I had to work with, and even with some extensive modifications I still don't see how a decent sized fabricated aluminum intake would work. The 3d printed piece that was mentioned earlier seems promising considering it can fully utilize the odd shape of the core support rectangle.