Project Nismo Turbo build

Gray Goose · 09-25-2019, 08:39 AM

Well, my fuel pump hat is broken! surprise surprise....right.... But here is the weird think. One of the rods was broken when I took it out an I cannot find the spring, spacer or retainer clip

WTF!! Unless there is a spot that I cannot feel in the tank.

I have been fixing all the jimmy rigged stuff on my Z since I bought it, but... this is BS, if someone put a fuel pump back in with one rod holding it!

I guess I will have to buy an entire new assembly so I can get the parts and run that till it breaks again

~

madwi · 09-25-2019, 08:41 AM

get the CJM top hat, you wont regret it.

"Z"en · 09-25-2019, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

Well, my fuel pump hat is broken! surprise surprise....right.... But here is the weird think. One of the rods was broken when I took it out an I cannot find the spring, spacer or retainer clip

WTF!! Unless there is a spot that I cannot feel in the tank.

I have been fixing all the jimmy rigged stuff on my Z since I bought it, but... this is BS, if someone put a fuel pump back in with one rod holding it!

I guess I will have to buy an entire new assembly so I can get the parts and run that till it breaks again

~

This has been happening several times here

Rusty · 09-25-2019, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi

get the CJM top hat, you wont regret it.

Gray Goose · 09-26-2019, 08:45 AM

Ordered the billet top hat yesterday. Getting it Friday!

Thanks Charles for the quick shipping!

madwi · 09-26-2019, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

Ordered the billet top hat yesterday. Getting it Friday!

Thanks Charles for the quick shipping!

That should help ease your woes.

Gray Goose · 09-30-2019, 10:10 AM

Finally got the fuel pump back in!

Can anyone tell me a good way to test the system? When i turn the ignition on it only gets the quick 1 or 2 second kick on. I do not show any pressure on my gauge.

~

soill370z · 09-30-2019, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gray goose

finally got the fuel pump back in!

Can anyone tell me a good way to test the system? When i turn the ignition on it only gets the quick 1 or 2 second kick on. I do not show any pressure on my gauge.

~

once you get ecutek and the bt app for your phone or tablet you can turn the car to on and power fuel pump through the app via on/off,besides just starting it with stock injectors not really sure the best way.

Gray Goose · 09-30-2019, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soill370z

once you get ecutek and the bt app for your phone or tablet you can turn the car to on and power fuel pump through the app via on/off,besides just starting it with stock injectors not really sure the best way.

I have the Bluetooth dongle and the app. Didn't realize i could do that though. will check into it this afternoon.

soill370z · 09-30-2019, 10:35 AM

you might have to flash the ecu first, not sure but once that is done just open up app select (my car) it will connect and then just go down to where it says fuel pump and click that.

phunk · 09-30-2019, 01:14 PM

I believe the fuel pump control via the app will work even without having flashed the car. That really is the best way. Otherwise you have 2 options... prime the system over and over, or start the engine and then adjust pressure. Its ideal to have 2 people, since aftermarket regulators do not hold set pressure once the pump is off, and you could never get to the engine bay gauge in time while its priming to see after turning the ignition on.

What I usually do if I am alone.. starting with the adjustment screw backed out to the point that it is not making any contact, I will thread it in by finger until I feel it touch down, then I will give it maybe 3-4 full rotations to bring the pressure setting up. Then I will sit in the car and prime it several times (you have to wait with key-off until the ECU turns off which takes a few seconds before you key back on or it will not re-prime). You will know when you have purged the air from the system and started to build pressure because the sound from the pump will change pitch in a very obvious way.

Then I will prime it a couple more times then go look for system leaks and see if there is any residual pressure on the gauge to give me any indication of roughly where I am set (some of these billet regulators are slower than others to lose pressure with pump off, they seem to have individual personalities in that way). I might bring up the pressure a little more and do some more prime and leak tests... but 99% of the time a leak is a leak and you dont need to get the pressure any higher before you can find it.

Once I am positive I am leak free I will put the intake manifold back on and get everything ready to fire up. I have the adjustment nut off the regulator and my hex key ready to adjust it. I fire up the engine and walk right up to the regulator and 3-4 seconds later I have the pressure dialed in to where I want it, and I put the lock nut back on.

Gray Goose · 09-30-2019, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I believe the fuel pump control via the app will work even without having flashed the car. That really is the best way. Otherwise you have 2 options... prime the system over and over, or start the engine and then adjust pressure. Its ideal to have 2 people, since aftermarket regulators do not hold set pressure once the pump is off, and you could never get to the engine bay gauge in time while its priming to see after turning the ignition on.

What I usually do if I am alone.. starting with the adjustment screw backed out to the point that it is not making any contact, I will thread it in by finger until I feel it touch down, then I will give it maybe 3-4 full rotations to bring the pressure setting up. Then I will sit in the car and prime it several times (you have to wait with key-off until the ECU turns off which takes a few seconds before you key back on or it will not re-prime). You will know when you have purged the air from the system and started to build pressure because the sound from the pump will change pitch in a very obvious way.

Then I will prime it a couple more times then go look for system leaks and see if there is any residual pressure on the gauge to give me any indication of roughly where I am set (some of these billet regulators are slower than others to lose pressure with pump off, they seem to have individual personalities in that way). I might bring up the pressure a little more and do some more prime and leak tests... but 99% of the time a leak is a leak and you dont need to get the pressure any higher before you can find it.

Once I am positive I am leak free I will put the intake manifold back on and get everything ready to fire up. I have the adjustment nut off the regulator and my hex key ready to adjust it. I fire up the engine and walk right up to the regulator and 3-4 seconds later I have the pressure dialed in to where I want it, and I put the lock nut back on.

Thanks for the info C, just to make sure.... the bottom port of the regulator comes from the fuel pump, the side port on the regulator goes into the fuel rail, fuel rails connect in the front and the other fuel rail goes to the return....correct?

soill370z · 09-30-2019, 02:16 PM

Bottom port of regulator goes to the factory hard pipe feed line for return, side port goes to rails and the new feed line goes to the other side of the rails

phunk · 09-30-2019, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gray Goose

Thanks for the info C, just to make sure.... the bottom port of the regulator comes from the fuel pump, the side port on the regulator goes into the fuel rail, fuel rails connect in the front and the other fuel rail goes to the return....correct?

No that wont go over well. Its somewhat open for interpretation but the lengths of the hoses will only accommodate a few ways. But you do have the regulator connections setup in a non-functional manor. The side ports are pressure side, and the bottom port is the outlet.

To connect as we intend: The hose leaving the pump and then filter feeds the rear of the passenger side rail. The hose leaving the rear of the driver side rail feeds the input (side port) of regulator. The hose leaving the bottom of the regulator connects to the stock feed pipe, using this original feed pipe as the return line.

Gray Goose · 09-30-2019, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

No that wont go over well. Its somewhat open for interpretation but the lengths of the hoses will only accommodate a few ways. But you do have the regulator connections setup in a non-functional manor. The side ports are pressure side, and the bottom port is the outlet.

To connect as we intend: The hose leaving the pump and then filter feeds the rear of the passenger side rail. The hose leaving the rear of the driver side rail feeds the input (side port) of regulator. The hose leaving the bottom of the regulator connects to the stock feed pipe, using this original feed pipe as the return line.

I was thinking the regulator had to be after the fuel rail. I hooked it up the wrong way interpreting the pics

.

09-25-2019, 08:41 AM	#47 (permalink)
madwi A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: West Michigan Posts: 31,410 Drives: Granma red Z Rep Power: 2684429	get the CJM top hat, you wont regret it. cv129, Rusty, Hotrodz and 4 others like this.

09-26-2019, 08:45 AM	#50 (permalink)
Gray Goose Base Member Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: LA Posts: 169 Drives: 2012 370Z Nismo #227 Rep Power: 6	Ordered the billet top hat yesterday. Getting it Friday! Thanks Charles for the quick shipping! Rusty, Hotrodz, madwi and 3 others like this.

09-30-2019, 01:14 PM	#56 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	I believe the fuel pump control via the app will work even without having flashed the car. That really is the best way. Otherwise you have 2 options... prime the system over and over, or start the engine and then adjust pressure. Its ideal to have 2 people, since aftermarket regulators do not hold set pressure once the pump is off, and you could never get to the engine bay gauge in time while its priming to see after turning the ignition on. What I usually do if I am alone.. starting with the adjustment screw backed out to the point that it is not making any contact, I will thread it in by finger until I feel it touch down, then I will give it maybe 3-4 full rotations to bring the pressure setting up. Then I will sit in the car and prime it several times (you have to wait with key-off until the ECU turns off which takes a few seconds before you key back on or it will not re-prime). You will know when you have purged the air from the system and started to build pressure because the sound from the pump will change pitch in a very obvious way. Then I will prime it a couple more times then go look for system leaks and see if there is any residual pressure on the gauge to give me any indication of roughly where I am set (some of these billet regulators are slower than others to lose pressure with pump off, they seem to have individual personalities in that way). I might bring up the pressure a little more and do some more prime and leak tests... but 99% of the time a leak is a leak and you dont need to get the pressure any higher before you can find it. Once I am positive I am leak free I will put the intake manifold back on and get everything ready to fire up. I have the adjustment nut off the regulator and my hex key ready to adjust it. I fire up the engine and walk right up to the regulator and 3-4 seconds later I have the pressure dialed in to where I want it, and I put the lock nut back on. scratchdvinyl, JARblue, Rusty and 4 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
The build! Fast Intentions Twin Turbo 370z Nismo	1Z2NV	Forced Induction	0	10-02-2015 10:51 PM
G37S GTM Stage 2 Twin Turbo Build by Project X	Chi-City-G	Other Vehicles	27	07-02-2013 12:07 PM
2010 370Z NISMO Twin Turbo build courtesy of GTM	stormcrow	Forced Induction	273	02-16-2011 07:41 AM
my current build project.	kellyefields	New Forum Member	3	01-23-2011 09:19 PM
THE BUILD! Project 370Z	VIP-STATUS	Nissan 370Z Photos / Spyshots / Video / Media Gallery	34	09-04-2009 02:25 AM

09-30-2019, 10:35 AM	#55 (permalink)
soill370z Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: illinois Posts: 134 Drives: 13 nismo 370z Rep Power: 10	you might have to flash the ecu first, not sure but once that is done just open up app select (my car) it will connect and then just go down to where it says fuel pump and click that.

09-30-2019, 02:16 PM	#58 (permalink)
soill370z Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: illinois Posts: 134 Drives: 13 nismo 370z Rep Power: 10	Bottom port of regulator goes to the factory hard pipe feed line for return, side port goes to rails and the new feed line goes to the other side of the rails