yep

You should throw a background with some lighting effect it and labels. It would look sweet integrated how you have your screen. I really want to do that to mine, but i like using the Ipod features on the factory nav screen and having my gauges open below.

What you do is create a background and lay the gauges over it. I found it easier to take a screen capture of my gauge screen to use as my guide for the background. Align all the static labels to the gauges. Your background should look like this:

https://niurwq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://nsurwq.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://rnlwhg.bn.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Yup that is a great idea. I will have to play with it!

[QUOTE=The Weapon;3885949]You should throw a background with some lighting effect it and labels. It would look sweet integrated how you have your screen. I really want to do that to mine, but i like using the Ipod features on the factory nav screen and having my gauges open below.

What you do is create a background and lay the gauges over it. I found it easier to take a screen capture of my gauge screen to use as my guide for the background. Align all the static labels to the gauges. Your background should look like this:

Any good suggestions on what program could I use to create a back ground like that?

I like to use Adobe Illustrator, but you can probably do it in Photoshop. Illustrator can be a pain to use if are you not familiar with it.

Well Test and Tune night at the track showed me some week links.

1. Clutch lets go if I don't let it cool down forever, if I make full power shifts it blows out too! Had to let out the pedal all the way, release the boost and build it back up with every shift. *****Solution***** have a SPEC twin disc coming in Wednesday and will be swapping it out before this weekends Import Face Off.

2. Traction! Always an issue no matter the power level it seems! the 305 R888r's would not hook up on the cold track (partly my fault for not getting a good burn out). Roasts the tires through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd most of the time, with 1st being all but useless. My best 60 foot was 2.15 and that when I didn't stage it to build boost (that time was 12.4 @ 121 MPH late in the night). I will need a dedicated drag racing set up and some slicks in the future.

3. Suspension needs work! mostly the camber issue

Hopefully I can put up some better numbers this coming weekend at the IFO.

Sitting at:

12.38 @ 123.31

~

I don't recommend a SPEC clutch based on other member's experience with them :twocents:

Too late for that :rofl2:
"If he dies....he dies"

Just ordered some SPC toe bolts. I will try to get my camber to zero before the race this weekend as well

I love my ATS Triple Carbon clutch. Expensive but well worth every penny I paid for it.

Replace those coilovers with your stock parts before aligning it! Low center of gravity of high spring rates destroy your 60' times. Nobody wants to hear it, and almost nobody will make the change, but I have to at least say it!

SPL Midlinks makes changing back and forth a breeze. Change the springs and setup the car for 1/4 mile. Track day, change the springs, corner balance and redo the alignment. I am not sure if he is running these but I am. My coilovers can also go to stock ride height.

You'll end up wanting to change the shocks as well. Anything tuned for road course and handling is going to cost you traction. To run stock springs and shocks is probably the best compromise to maintain good handling and decent abilities to hook up the power.

Ya you can change back after the dragstrip if you dont want to hook up on the street.. but really on the street you need the help even more so. It all just depends on priorities.

Even the NISMO suspension? It was sooooooo stiff!

Ive never tried the NISMO stuff but its if any stiffer than standard issue 370z parts I would get some base model ones. I bet you can score it all for a couple hundred bucks since almost everyone on here changes it out.