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Originally Posted by redondoaveb Torque on mine was 491, but, I was running a Turbo Guard screen How much HP and what did your curve look like? 420 Tq is
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#2 (permalink) |
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I had 4 different power levels with my wastegate/ebc. High boost was 658whp.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Yep. So my numbers were right on. Didn’t want him thinking he’d be pushing crazy TQ for the hp he was shooting for. 550-600 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#4 (permalink) |
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Remind me: which of these were with E85 and pump, and what octane were you running? After seeing how yours was setup, I'm considering doing the same or similar (but probably meth since the nearest station with E85 is over 40 mins away)
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#5 (permalink) | |
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1. Power for Single turbo and superchargers can range wildly. Your main concern is going to be TQ. 2. There are several single turbo kits on the market. there are only a handful of supercharger kits. Single turbos will have massive TQ fairly early on. the Vortech or stillen based superchargers will only see tq peak later in the RPM range. The RJM whipple will see high torque as early as 2800rpm and peak around 5500rpm and then level off around the torque you saw at 2800 rpm. A very flat torque curve. 3. stock components can handle only so much TQ load. the motor is anywhere from 500-550ftlbs (This could see as high as 700whp +/-). the Transmission maxes out at ~420-450ftlbs. PLEASE NOTE: the longevity of these components is drastically reduced at these power levels. Failure is not a matter of if but rather when... 4. Transmission upgrades. I would steer clear of level 10. This is my personal opinion after seeing a fully built trans by them pulled apart. however, here are the parts I would do: Triple Plate Tq Converter (Only RJM has this) Billet Flex Plate (Fast Intentions / RJM uses this one) Next would be a truly upgraded valvebody. Then finally machined baskets to accept more steel and carbon plates. (Only RJM does This) If your budget is $10k I would keep saving. Your better off having $15k+ in hand when you go to do this. Trust me... Something always comes up and your build stalls because your waiting on money... Happens to a lot of guys!
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#6 (permalink) |
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The torque on a centrifugal like a vortech is the most forgiving on internals as it ramps in perfectly linearly. It's that shotgun of torque from a Whipple or turbo low in the rpm range that is harsh on them.
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo 700+whp |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Is that whp/tq safe for the 7A in stock form? And anything else I NEED to make it work? I.e, fuel management, etc. or is it just recommended ? ![]() I already have a 340lph FP, tuned on UpRev with a tuner who can remote tune me on a local dyno. So what else would I be out besides the 6k?
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![]() Last edited by AstatenateZ; 04-23-2019 at 12:10 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) | ||
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I also already answered the 7at capacity question. 400-420ftlbs peak anything above that is borrowed time... even at this level its borrowed time.
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#11 (permalink) | |
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oh come on, why not LOL
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![]() Last edited by AstatenateZ; 04-24-2019 at 10:54 AM. |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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I'm not like most folks on here who say you need to have a bazillion dollars to boost....but your 7AT is the real problem. We haven't yet defined what is "safe" for that trans. It appears any boosted build on that stock 7AT is at risk of the trans failing and the options for built 7AT's appear both iffy and expensive. I know it's not the answer you wanted, but if you are on a budget then boosting an auto Z is going to require a significantly higher risk appetite than boosting in general (which carries its own share of risk already).
If you decide you want a boosted Z, find a cost effective way to exchange your car for a manual to boost or buy someone else's build that has a known good history (if such a thing even exists). Otherwise, it looks like a departure from the Z is in your future.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Yeah to be honest. I was looking at 09-12 model GTR’s . I know of the transmission issues and until 2014+ they finally make 545 crank hp. To me , this doesn’t justify the 60-75k price tag. As such the 09-12 models making 480-485 crank hp. Doesn’t justify 48-55k.
I am probably going to sale the Z soon and get a 2012-2013 ZL1 for 28-31k. Even a 2016 + ZL1 for 50k that puts out 640. Hellcats are mid 40’s now and 707 crank hp... I’ve loved GTR’s a long time. But I can’t justify spending 50k for 480 crank hp.... When I can spend 30k and have 580 crank and 5 bolt on's + tune and be at 600+ WHEEL hp.. ZL1 have Alcantara dashes and steering wheels, center seats, leather, stitching, etc. I mean for a Chevy, some nice features. I’ve sat in GTR’s and they don’t seem as “nice” as I thought you'd get. My 12 touring/sport feels more luxurious with the stitching, leather/suede seats, etc... I think my “omg GTR” has gotten to me. And I’m coming to reality. The GTR just isn’t what I thought it was ![]()
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![]() Last edited by AstatenateZ; 04-23-2019 at 09:35 AM. |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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comparing a 12-13 ZL1, new ZL1, and hellcat to the GT-R is the dumbest thing i've seen today. you're statement shows that you only car about the amount of HP and not what car you drive. also, you must have a custom interior, because the interior in my GTR blows the Z's out of the water for materials and quality. ![]()
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I'm 25, I bought my own home at 22, never had help from anyone, I have no debt minus my 2 assets (home/car) , I have a 824 credit score, multiple lines of credit that are at 0% utilization, served 4 years in AF, and learned a thing or 2 about financial stability. I was raised by a single mom, and grew up broke, not knowing if I'd eat the next day. I play things smart, plan, and work my a$$ off for all I got. I can't justify spending 49-55k for an 09-12 GTR that makes 480 crank hp or even 545 crank hp out of the 14+ GTR for 65-80k... when there's options like hellcats for 45k with 700 crank hp, or ZL1 for 30k with 580 crank hp. Finally, comparing a Z to GTR interior, yes I can do it. I have 3 local friends with GTR's. 2009, 2013 and 2017 . The suede dash is much nicer than Z, but aside from that. The cheap fake looking carbon fiber around the shifter, meh. The seats in my touring/sport are just as nice as the GTR's suede/leather as mine is suede/leather too, the steering wheels are the same cheaper feel leather, but still nice, and I'd actually prefer all the leather stitched on the center console around the dash/stereo in Z, as opposed to the cheap looking plastic the GTR uses. And to top things off that killed my spirits and I felt the pain from my friends is that most people think the Z is better/ faster than a GTR. We've been stopped at gas stations and of course real car people know GTR > Z ... but 90% of people have complimented my car over a GTR because they see 2 seater vs 4 seater, they see the curves on a Z, long hood and assume = better. I sh*t you not, some lady was complimenting my car, my friends GTR pulls up, she asked what GTR stood for, and she said that's a sporty family car you got (assuming she meant because it had a backseat) and told my friend it looked like a fatter version of her Altima coupe. And I felt the pain in my own chest.. Nissan's not really doing anything with the Z's or GTR's (i.e, have you seen the 50th edition??) Nissan is becoming very dated, quickly. And as sad as I'll be I think I'm going to have to move on to a different brand who's making moves forward. Not keeping cars the exact same for a decade.
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![]() Last edited by AstatenateZ; 04-24-2019 at 10:55 AM. |
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