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Insight Needed From Boosted Owners/Builders - Need Advice

Originally Posted by redondoaveb Torque on mine was 491, but, I was running a Turbo Guard screen How much HP and what did your curve look like? 420 Tq is

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
Torque on mine was 491, but, I was running a Turbo Guard screen
How much HP and what did your curve look like? 420 Tq is enough for 600 HP at 7500. Topgunz posted plot for his kit was 440 TQ.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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How much HP and what did your curve look like? 420 Tq is enough for 600 HP at 7500. Topgunz posted plot for his kit was 440 TQ.
I had 4 different power levels with my wastegate/ebc. High boost was 658whp.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
I had 4 different power levels with my wastegate/ebc. High boost was 658whp.


Yep. So my numbers were right on. Didn’t want him thinking he’d be pushing crazy TQ for the hp he was shooting for. 550-600


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Old 04-19-2019, 11:09 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
I had 4 different power levels with my wastegate/ebc. High boost was 658whp.
Remind me: which of these were with E85 and pump, and what octane were you running? After seeing how yours was setup, I'm considering doing the same or similar (but probably meth since the nearest station with E85 is over 40 mins away)
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So I've owned the Z for nearly 2 years now. I've pretty much done every bolt on + tuned. It's mainly for looks as it's low, got wide wheels, I am looking at switching it up. Light wheels, raise car back up to 100% functional, meaty tires, etc.
My main dilemma is I just accepted a new IT position at work, bought a house. Fortunate enough to not have kids or a wife. Only a girlfriend who mostly supports my car addiction.

I am in the market for a used GTR (around 55-65k), but obviously my financial mindset (I am fortunate to have at a young age) tells me just boost the Z and enjoy it for a bit longer until I'm 100% comfortable affording the GTR, as I am with the Z.

Which brings me to my questions for the Boosted owners/builders/shops etc.


Realistically, what #'s should I expect with a single turbo or A2A SC kit? With looking at GTR's I'd like to be around 550-600whp.
The weak link would be the 7A trans I'm assuming from research, which leads me to my next question,

What's all needed to rebuild the 7A trans to handle 550-600? And costs associated? Any companies offer rebuild kits, solenoids, etc to beef it up?

I've looked at a few SC/Turbo kits,
Stillen with SOHO A2A upgrade w/ 9lb pulley upgrade (580whp/427tq)
SOHO Stage 1 (540whp/465TQ) for $7899 or
SOHO Stage 2 kit for $8999 with 570whp/498TQ



I'm looking to stay under 10k, The best bang for the buck would prob be a lightly used Stillen, + $1999 for A2A kit and then whatever parts needed for 7A to withstand around 550-600whp/420-500tq.

I want some first hand experience (before pulling the trigger) by builders or owners on costs associated with, how much power to realistically expect, etc. Any info is much appreciated.
I know a lot of people have already chimmed in but let me give some information to help you.

1. Power for Single turbo and superchargers can range wildly. Your main concern is going to be TQ.

2. There are several single turbo kits on the market. there are only a handful of supercharger kits. Single turbos will have massive TQ fairly early on. the Vortech or stillen based superchargers will only see tq peak later in the RPM range. The RJM whipple will see high torque as early as 2800rpm and peak around 5500rpm and then level off around the torque you saw at 2800 rpm. A very flat torque curve.

3. stock components can handle only so much TQ load. the motor is anywhere from 500-550ftlbs (This could see as high as 700whp +/-). the Transmission maxes out at ~420-450ftlbs. PLEASE NOTE: the longevity of these components is drastically reduced at these power levels. Failure is not a matter of if but rather when...

4. Transmission upgrades. I would steer clear of level 10. This is my personal opinion after seeing a fully built trans by them pulled apart. however, here are the parts I would do:

Triple Plate Tq Converter (Only RJM has this)
Billet Flex Plate (Fast Intentions / RJM uses this one)

Next would be a truly upgraded valvebody.

Then finally machined baskets to accept more steel and carbon plates. (Only RJM does This)

If your budget is $10k I would keep saving. Your better off having $15k+ in hand when you go to do this. Trust me... Something always comes up and your build stalls because your waiting on money... Happens to a lot of guys!
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Old 04-19-2019, 11:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The torque on a centrifugal like a vortech is the most forgiving on internals as it ramps in perfectly linearly. It's that shotgun of torque from a Whipple or turbo low in the rpm range that is harsh on them.
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Old 04-19-2019, 02:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The torque on a centrifugal like a vortech is the most forgiving on internals as it ramps in perfectly linearly. It's that shotgun of torque from a Whipple or turbo low in the rpm range that is harsh on them.
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Old 04-23-2019, 11:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TopgunZ View Post
The torque on a centrifugal like a vortech is the most forgiving on internals as it ramps in perfectly linearly. It's that shotgun of torque from a Whipple or turbo low in the rpm range that is harsh on them.
I saw your kits are $5999, that's an amazing deal for a new full A2A kit. My question is how much WHEEL hp is that good for ? Torque?

Is that whp/tq safe for the 7A in stock form?

And anything else I NEED to make it work? I.e, fuel management, etc. or is it just recommended ? also is the Tial QRJ in your package or an extra amount? Want more info. If I can get away with spending 6k on kit, re tune and be at 450-500whp safely on a 7A I'd be interested.

I already have a 340lph FP, tuned on UpRev with a tuner who can remote tune me on a local dyno. So what else would I be out besides the 6k?
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Old 04-23-2019, 12:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If I can get away with spending 6k on kit, re tune and be at 450-500whp safely on a 7A I'd be interested.
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You've got a twin turbo sound system, I think you met your audio goals.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AstatenateZ View Post
I saw your kits are $5999, that's an amazing deal for a new full A2A kit. My question is how much WHEEL hp is that good for ? Torque?

Is that whp/tq safe for the 7A in stock form?

And anything else I NEED to make it work? I.e, fuel management, etc. or is it just recommended ? also is the Tial QRJ in your package or an extra amount? Want more info. If I can get away with spending 6k on kit, re tune and be at 450-500whp safely on a 7A I'd be interested.

I already have a 340lph FP, tuned on UpRev with a tuner who can remote tune me on a local dyno. So what else would I be out besides the 6k?
keep saving... if your going a vortech based kit you will want atleast $10k as a budget for the ohh **** or buffer needed in case something breaks. with the whipple or single turbo I would say $15k and twin turbo $20k


I also already answered the 7at capacity question. 400-420ftlbs peak anything above that is borrowed time... even at this level its borrowed time.
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Old 04-24-2019, 10:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bullitt5897 View Post
keep saving... if your going a vortech based kit you will want atleast $10k as a budget for the ohh **** or buffer needed in case something breaks. with the whipple or single turbo I would say $15k and twin turbo $20k


I also already answered the 7at capacity question. 400-420ftlbs peak anything above that is borrowed time... even at this level its borrowed time.
Well TG kit says around 450whp which equates to 360 ish TQ (from what dyno logs I've searched around and found) so that's a little under the 400-420 TQ range, correct?


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oh come on, why not LOL
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Old 04-24-2019, 11:14 AM   #12 (permalink)
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oh come on, why not LOL
I'm not like most folks on here who say you need to have a bazillion dollars to boost....but your 7AT is the real problem. We haven't yet defined what is "safe" for that trans. It appears any boosted build on that stock 7AT is at risk of the trans failing and the options for built 7AT's appear both iffy and expensive. I know it's not the answer you wanted, but if you are on a budget then boosting an auto Z is going to require a significantly higher risk appetite than boosting in general (which carries its own share of risk already).

If you decide you want a boosted Z, find a cost effective way to exchange your car for a manual to boost or buy someone else's build that has a known good history (if such a thing even exists). Otherwise, it looks like a departure from the Z is in your future.
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Old 04-23-2019, 12:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Yeah to be honest. I was looking at 09-12 model GTR’s . I know of the transmission issues and until 2014+ they finally make 545 crank hp. To me , this doesn’t justify the 60-75k price tag. As such the 09-12 models making 480-485 crank hp. Doesn’t justify 48-55k.

I am probably going to sale the Z soon and get a 2012-2013 ZL1 for 28-31k.

Even a 2016 + ZL1 for 50k that puts out 640. Hellcats are mid 40’s now and 707 crank hp...

I’ve loved GTR’s a long time. But I can’t justify spending 50k for 480 crank hp.... When I can spend 30k and have 580 crank and 5 bolt on's + tune and be at 600+ WHEEL hp.. ZL1 have Alcantara dashes and steering wheels, center seats, leather, stitching, etc. I mean for a Chevy, some nice features. I’ve sat in GTR’s and they don’t seem as “nice” as I thought you'd get. My 12 touring/sport feels more luxurious with the stitching, leather/suede seats, etc... I think my “omg GTR” has gotten to me. And I’m coming to reality. The GTR just isn’t what I thought it was
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Old 04-23-2019, 12:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yeah to be honest. I was looking at 09-12 model GTR’s . I know of the transmission issues and until 2014+ they finally make 545 crank hp. To me , this doesn’t justify the 60-75k price tag. As such the 09-12 models making 480-485 crank hp. Doesn’t justify 48-55k.

I am probably going to sale the Z soon and get a 2012-2013 ZL1 for 28-31k.

Even a 2016 + ZL1 for 50k that puts out 640. Hellcats are mid 40’s now and 707 crank hp...

I’ve loved GTR’s a long time. But I can’t justify spending 50k for 480 crank hp.... When I can spend 30k and have 580 crank and 5 bolt on's + tune and be at 600+ WHEEL hp.. ZL1 have Alcantara dashes and steering wheels, center seats, leather, stitching, etc. I mean for a Chevy, some nice features. I’ve sat in GTR’s and they don’t seem as “nice” as I thought you'd get. My 12 touring/sport feels more luxurious with the stitching, leather/suede seats, etc... I think my “omg GTR” has gotten to me. And I’m coming to reality. The GTR just isn’t what I thought it was

comparing a 12-13 ZL1, new ZL1, and hellcat to the GT-R is the dumbest thing i've seen today.

you're statement shows that you only car about the amount of HP and not what car you drive.

also, you must have a custom interior, because the interior in my GTR blows the Z's out of the water for materials and quality.

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Old 04-24-2019, 10:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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comparing a 12-13 ZL1, new ZL1, and hellcat to the GT-R is the dumbest thing i've seen today.

you're statement shows that you only car about the amount of HP and not what car you drive.

also, you must have a custom interior, because the interior in my GTR blows the Z's out of the water for materials and quality.

I care about cost, power and luxurious amenities, with a ZL1 having 580, 30k price tag used market, and just as many luxurious amenities as a GTR (i.e, alcantara dash, seats + leather, diff driving modes, heads up display, fully loaded entertainment center with nav, etc.) it seems like a much better financial decision. I'm a numbers man, if it don't make dollars, it don't make sense, right?

I'm 25, I bought my own home at 22, never had help from anyone, I have no debt minus my 2 assets (home/car) , I have a 824 credit score, multiple lines of credit that are at 0% utilization, served 4 years in AF, and learned a thing or 2 about financial stability. I was raised by a single mom, and grew up broke, not knowing if I'd eat the next day. I play things smart, plan, and work my a$$ off for all I got.

I can't justify spending 49-55k for an 09-12 GTR that makes 480 crank hp or even 545 crank hp out of the 14+ GTR for 65-80k... when there's options like hellcats for 45k with 700 crank hp, or ZL1 for 30k with 580 crank hp.

Finally, comparing a Z to GTR interior, yes I can do it.

I have 3 local friends with GTR's. 2009, 2013 and 2017 . The suede dash is much nicer than Z, but aside from that. The cheap fake looking carbon fiber around the shifter, meh. The seats in my touring/sport are just as nice as the GTR's suede/leather as mine is suede/leather too, the steering wheels are the same cheaper feel leather, but still nice, and I'd actually prefer all the leather stitched on the center console around the dash/stereo in Z, as opposed to the cheap looking plastic the GTR uses.

And to top things off that killed my spirits and I felt the pain from my friends is that most people think the Z is better/ faster than a GTR. We've been stopped at gas stations and of course real car people know GTR > Z ... but 90% of people have complimented my car over a GTR because they see 2 seater vs 4 seater, they see the curves on a Z, long hood and assume = better. I sh*t you not, some lady was complimenting my car, my friends GTR pulls up, she asked what GTR stood for, and she said that's a sporty family car you got (assuming she meant because it had a backseat) and told my friend it looked like a fatter version of her Altima coupe. And I felt the pain in my own chest.. Nissan's not really doing anything with the Z's or GTR's (i.e, have you seen the 50th edition??) Nissan is becoming very dated, quickly. And as sad as I'll be I think I'm going to have to move on to a different brand who's making moves forward. Not keeping cars the exact same for a decade.
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