New clutch issues

Jinxx

Ok Im having a issue and not sure of the direction to take ....so I have Z1 road race clutch in my turbo z and from the first day I noticed a strange smell after driving in ..thought it would break in and go away which ..It did get less and less and I didn’t hink much about it now I’m about 7k miles on it it drives fine but I have noticed it is difficult to go in gear while idling....I have checked everything on the hydraulic side and it seems fine ...now on my other z I had the same clutch kit installed and had no issues with it ..no smell after install and no issues going into gear while idling....so I wondering if maybe the first kit may have been defective or if there was a installation error ...one thing that I noticed from the install is that on the first one after my installer was done was that the clutch grabbed instantly when the pedal came off the floor and my installer adjusted the pedal out to max adjustment to get it normal....with my second car no adjustment was needed after install

.....so now I’m trying to decide should I replace the pressure plate and disc with another Z1 kit ...should I go with zspeeds stage 3 pressure plate and if I go that route will the Z1 flywheel match up to it ....or is this a issue of installation and it’s some kind of adjustment inside that needs to be corrected...

Any info would be helpful

lj909

Really does sound like hydraulics. I know you said you checked. But I'd check again.

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PW 07 HR350Z R.I.P. Totaled by 82yr old woman
2010 40th Anniversary 370Z

Jinxx

Completely flushed out fluid replaced ....no leaks and pedal is firm all the way up and down

Jsolo

Sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Are you able to adjust the rod on the pedal such that it's not screwed in (into the clevis) as much? You'll also need to readjust the limit switches on the top/bottom.

I would get this resolved asap because you're causing damage to the trans when going into gear if the clutch isn't fully disengaged.

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G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring

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lj909

Are all the hydraulics stock? Pedal, CMC, CSC? Or are any parts aftermarket?

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PW 07 HR350Z R.I.P. Totaled by 82yr old woman
2010 40th Anniversary 370Z

Jinxx

Yes I feel like it isn’t disengaging fully ..Pedal has been adjusted ....and is adjusted for full stroke on the master cylinder.....that was my first thing I started looking at...and yes looking to to resolve is ASAP ....just started feeling it and i never force it into gear and there isn’t any grinding whatsoever

Jinxx

Pedal is stock master cylinder is stock ...csc is upgraded with zspeed hd csc

Jsolo

Is it difficult getting into 1st only or all gears? If 1st only, what happens if you go into say 4th, then immediately into 1st?

If it's all gears, then possible clutch spacing isn't right inside the bell housing¿? Slave has a finite amount of movement to disengage the clutch. If spacing isn't right then it doesn't disengage all the way.

Was it fine after initial install and this issue just developed?

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G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring

For sale links

Jinxx

It doesn’t cause a issue every time but when it does it doesn’t seem to want to go in any gear ...if it’s a spacing issue ..is there a way to adjust the plate and csc..or should I be looking at replacing the plate ..that’s why I was looking at the zspeed clutch kit

Jinxx

So update on clutch ....I replaced the Z1 road race clutch with zspeed stage 3 clutch kit checked everything out while it was apart ...hard to really tell but noticed the center of the disc looked like it turned blue from heat ..my installer said it was prolly dragging. ..also one thing I noticed from first install was vibration in the clutch pedal as I would release the clutch while driving which he said sounds like some warpage in the plate or disc but I can’t say for sure .....however after the zspeed clutch install everything is very smooth no vibration and the issue of not going into gears is gone ...pedal is much easier than Z1 clutch everything feels very good now and I am about 400miles on it.

JARblue

Was the master cylinder replaced with the rest of the hydraulic system? If not, you may need a new master.

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Spooler

It sounds like you didn't have enough clutch to start with. If the disk turned blue, it got real hot. If it warped, it was after it got so hot. That stinky smell is not what you want to smell after a clutch install. The clutch smell was from the excessive heat.

JARblue

Did you have the turbo and then get the clutch? Break in for most FI-capable clutches is 1000 miles or so. Don't want to be in boost during break in - that's why it's recommended you get the clutch and break it in before boosting so you can properly tune with boost without toasting the clutch.

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Spooler

If you buy enough clutch, that is not a problem. I have never broken in a clutch. Ever. It holds or it doesn't.

Jinxx

The clutch had vibration in the pedal and the smell lasted quite awhile even from day one so there wasn’t anything to cause excessive heat ...clutch was broke in 2400 miles before car was taken to the Dyno