CJM Fuel Hat and 340lph Pump ISSUE

overtureZ

Oh I also did section 11 (filter delete) because I'm installing the aeromotive external filter Friday. Could that have any affect on this?

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phunk

Boom. There you have it.

This is absolutely your problem. With the filter cut out, you will have to add an external regulator. The stock regulator is spliced off the filter housing. By deleting the filter, the stock regulator is not doing anything at all.

No wonder your engine is flooding so bad.. you have unregulated pressure, as high as the pump can push.

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overtureZ

Well ****... Oops, What are my options? Can I just slap on a regulator externally without the entire return kit?

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phunk

If you did not entirely cut the filter out, and merely bypassed it, then you can put it back how it was and be good to go.

If you did fully chop it out irreversibly, you are not in the best of shape at the moment. When the stock regulator is eliminated, you still have to send bypass fuel into the same port that the stock regulator did. This is to keep the venturi pumps active. We produce the custom fitting for doing this, and we are currently out of stock on them for a couple weeks. You could build a custom return kit but without our return conversion hardware you will have inactive venturis and not be able to run the car below 1/2 - 3/4 tank.

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sirnixalot

sorry for the side question but its semi relevant

https://cj-motorsports.com/products/...-pump-kit-370z

could you add an option on this for your 4 way tap as well as the option to not get the top hat?

I have the top hat already installed but plan to covert to return and external filter

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

phunk

If you intended to go with our S1.E kit, it will install the same to the billet hat without any custom changes to the order.

If you are planning to build your own RFS: I can configure a custom invoice for those components. We do not want to sell the return conversion pieces outside of a return kit but without the top hat. However if you already have the top hat, than we would gladly permit that.

Although at the moment we are a few weeks out on having those components available again.

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bcfromfl

I'm dreading this part of the upgrades. Hope I don't get in over my head...

overtureZ

So what your saying is, I have to buy the return kit?

Or can I remove the basket and mound some plastic to the bottom to seal it back off? Pretty much only deleting the paper filter inside..

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phunk

Its not too bad. But if you really dont want to do the fuel pump modifications, you can send yours to me and I will build it for you for $85 plus return shipping. I also have cores I can build for $250 core charge, refunded when yours gets back to me.

After the fuel pump is rebuilt and back in the tank, the rest is pretty easy. Just leave yourself a generous amount of time to route the hoses neatly. Routing the hoses takes longer than youd expect by the time you are really satisfied with how they are sitting.

If you take some time to look at the fuel pump housing and consider its layout, it will become less intimidating. It really is pretty simple after you give it some attention: fuel is drawn into the pump through the strainer, it exits the pump through a hose leading into a filter, and then a hose from the filter out the top of the tank (through the plastic flange). Attached on the side of the filter there is a regulator that bleeds pressure out to maintain 52psi. The fuel that the regulator bled out travels to a T fitting where it splits off to 2 different venturis (which are basically just pinholes that create a suction effect). And that is really it. The OP's trouble is that he has eliminated the filter, which also means he has eliminated the regulator, and thus the venturis that follow the regulator.

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phunk

I would have to see exactly what you have left to determine options from here. Ultimately, you need the regulator plumbed into the system, and the fuel leaving the regulator needs to remain plumbed into the venturi passages.

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overtureZ

If you look at section 11 of the instructions, my fuel filter basic is identical to that one shown.

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phunk

I see. Since the filter is entirely eliminated, there is no practical way to continue using the stock pressure regulator since its housing is built into the filter housing. It would take a custom built regulator housing and in-tank plumbing to re-integrate it... it would be easier to just replace the unit with an unmodified one.

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VQStryker

Hey I was kind of right

Good thing Phunk came in for the rescue! Just get the the return fuel system, you'll want it eventually anyway and you already have the pump

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SOLD- Stryker TT super sleeper (12.35 @ 121mph) no gripZ No Z

overtureZ

Ahhh, thank you Phunk! I have sent you a PM inquiring on the return system.

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overtureZ

Good thing for now those pump assemblies are cheap af on ebay. Got a 13 g37 one for $52. Lessons learned here, READ ENTIRE INSTRUCTION.. LOL

....Now what do I do with this aeromotive filter I bought.. No point in using two filters

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Auto/Z Enthusiast - Mechanical Engineer - Fabricator - Do it for dale