Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.
 

I am creating a TT build thread to pass the time and passing the time is brutal. So, I am going to list out what I am doing.

Fast Intentions Stage 2.5 TT kit
Fast Intentions Crash bar
Fast Intentions 3" exhaust with Carbon Fiber mufflers
ATS Triple Carbon Clutch with external Nissan CSC
2-Walboro 450
CJ Motorsports duel fuel pump setup
IDA1700cc injectors
MA-Motorsports custom built fuel return system for E85
JWT C2 exhaust cams with new water pump, Timing chains, Guides and tensioners
Upgraded front cover Oil galley gaskets/fasteners
Suckerpunch oil pump
MA-Motorsports ATI fluid damper (already on the car)
CJ Motorsports baffled oil pan (already on the car)
34 row FI oil cooler (already on the car)
Carrillo Pro Rods
MA-Motorsports Diamond Forged pistons
Compression will stay at stock 11 to 1
OS Giken 1.5 LSD (already on the car)
Z1 Motorsports Poly Diff bushings (already on the car)
MA-Motorsports Diff cooler
Finite Element Design Carbon Fiber 3" cooling ducts
"Looking for 3" front brake backing plates"
Z1 2-piece rotors front and rear (already on the car)
Carbotech XP8 pads front/rear (already on the car)
E85 content gauge, etc.
Eboost2 boost controller/gauge
Galeforce custom single gauge pillar
Ecuteck tuning with Flexfuel
Junk Yard long block
DSS Pro Level Axles

I am building the motor with Carrillo rods and Ma-Motorsports custom Forged pistons, etc.

What are your whp and lb-fts torque goals?

The end goal is 800-850hp. I won't be able to do that until after building the engine. For now, it will be 590hp on 93 octane and 650hp on E85 (Ignite E90). The numbers are normal DynoJet numbers. Torque will be limited to 580tq or under. The limiting factor is going to be the torque. It depends on how well the torque can be pushed up in the upper RPM range. Be for warned, Ma-Motorsport dyno reads real low. That will be taken into account when HP/Torque numbers are posted up.

I thought very hard about going with the FI Stage 2.5 with larger turbo's. I just don't feel they are necessary for my goals. The install will be sometime after Zdayz.

You should also add a ported lower manifold and cpt.obvious upper manifold. Also you did not mention replacing oil pump gear. Got have all the high horse power go fast parts.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Suckerpunch oil pump baby. Ported lower manifold, Hmm. Haven't thought about that.

I have a ported lower. I will get an upper when I build my motor.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

You're going to start snapping axles at those HP numbers once its staring to hookup.

Problems I'd love to have :)

There is an upgrade for that. :) Hotrodz said I could try his out first.

You're Specialty Z clutch comes with a new Tilton Slave :) Sell that CSC you have

I'm having my C2 cams done before boost, but it looks really close to the same direction I've been moving. I've done my bushings, diff, mounts, clutch, flywheel, crash bar, cooling ducts, and pads. I have Heads, cams, damper, oil pump gears, and looking at picking up the CJM fueling stuff for E85. Big diff is I'm spending to have the heads ported, then maybe boost and/or build the bottom end.

This will give me a good picture of what I'm looking at. I'm watching this :)

I want to build the motor too. I am thinking on it still. I just hate to waste 50k miles of good motor. I may like it at that pre built motor level and not want to go higher. We shall see. I am a boost addict just like everyone else, I doubt it.

Nice build sheet! I'd say go for the rebuild while it's all out. Save time and money. If you're a boost addict like the rest of us, that power will feel slow in a week and you're gonna want more!

I have been boosted for about 4.5 years and I have about 55K on the motor and about 35k boosted. You know how I drive...a lot like you. She does not get babied. I am torn with the same thinking do I build sooner than later knowing there is good life in the motor but 35k miles boosted with a few thousand at the track well I would say the motor is like 75 or 80K. I would say if you got the cash do it now and be done. Doing it later just mean more money and down time. Just my two cent. :tiphat:

Don’t Destroy MA’s Dyno!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f617cc422.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

LOL, you know who your daddy is. Sleeping outside at Zdayz ain't no fun.

The bad part comes if you pop the motor. The old one is junk. So, one low mileage junk yard long block for 2 to 3k. It is best to swap out all of your electronics to said motor after it is built. Two turbo rebuilds for good measure just in case metal shrapnel made it to them. CAC cleaning. It will be 7 to 10k more expensive if that happens. Sometimes, that is the game we play and the risks we take.

Yup, you pretty much nailed it!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

:leghump:

While you're at it. Bigger throttle bodies.

With an FI engine I think they are a waste of money. A goal of over 1k hp, then yeah. When you get to that point, maximum boost becomes an issue so you are trying to find ways to reduce the restriction, hence reduces the max psi of boost. That is where the learning curve is at now days with several folks over 800hp. Good luck to them.

Does anyone know when you need to swap out the crank to a Bryant racing Forged crank? That level has got to be somewhere between 800 to 900hp.

Why not just buy a BC kit that is rated 1000 whp++?

That Bryant Racing crank would snap the BC kit in half without much effort. Those cranks will spin to the moon and hold all the power you could throw at it. Hence why they cost upwards of $5000

Because a BC kit is not good enough for me. Bryant cranks are expensive because they work.

You forgot the 3 month wait to boot.

I believe Doran Racing was using Bryant cranks in their race motors.

Yes, with a dry sump setup.

Looks similar to my parts list. Good luck with the build. I stare at all my parts everyday sucks balls.

MaMotorsports told me anything over 800whp. I went to the shop to put a down payment on a BR billet crank.

I called Bryant Racing yesterday and the guy I talked to didn't no chit. I asked him about a crank for a vq34 and he had no idea what I was talking about he said they had ones available for vq35 and vq37. He said the cost was around $3k.

I think if you are wanting to rev 8k or above for more than a quarter mile run you need to upgrade your crank. If you are going to run on the street, I don't know if a crank upgrade is really all that necessary. From what I have seen of all the plus 900whp builds, many other things fail before you get to the crank being a limiting factor. The number issue has been extreme heat and the upper manifold failing at or over 22 to 23 psi.

For what I am doing, a Bryant crank for a VQ37 will not be needed. FI cars don't need to rev past 8K IMHO.

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

VQ37=370z, g37 etc. VQ35= 350z,g35 etc VQ34=???

Lol, Ikr!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Having a senior moment again? :rofl2:

Well crap. I guess I will be building the engine and installing a CJ Motorsport duel fuel pump setup. If I build the engine now I basically get it for half price from what it would cost later. Editing parts list.

Mine last for days but seem like moments!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Lets be friends until we are old and senile. Then we can be new friends. :rofl2:

Glad to meet you, I'm Bob!:rofl2:

What compression ratio was your engine?