Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

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Enjoy, one of the reasons I went to a 1.06AR exhaust housing on my turbos. Drive pressure and backpressure are not the same. This is one of the things the
GTR guys figured out long ago. With twins, there exhaust and downpipes are 3.5in. and their turbo intakes pipes are large. 3.5 to 4.5in.

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Welp, the weather has turned cold. Getting traction with R888r's is out. Not gonna happen below 80deg at my power level. Gonna need to switch over to my drag radial setup. I was trying to get some tuning in with the R888r's and that is out. It wouldn't be that big of a deal, but I will more than likely have to go back to my stockish rear brake setup.

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One of my favorite NASCAR stories. Sometimes, it is the obvious stuff that you can't miss.

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Great Podcast.

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Enjoy. Important information in here for some.

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Leaving my old brake ducts open for fresh air to the air filters needs to be changed. At speeds, the hood goes to dancing because the front end is catching air. I guess I will need to build some boxes to only supply fresh air to the air filters or cap it off. That's the only change that was made to the aero.

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Things are going slow right now. Learning new things and taking my time. I am in no hurry.

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I installed a Z1 lower temp thermostat today. Playing around with a few things to see how coolant pressure reacts. Waiting for everything to dry out. The Z1 one is 170 deg. opening. The Mishimoto one opens up at 150 deg. Factory opens at 180 deg but I always see 190 to 200 deg on my gauge. First test of the Z1 thermostat the car is at 180 deg. We shall see what happens.

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What we should see for coolant pressure is not something that is set in stone. It depends on where the pressure sensor is installed. Every car may be different. So, you get your baseline at lower boost, say 12psi. My cars baseline is as follows. The coolant pressure will increase with rpm, due to the water pump making more pressure. RPM goes up, coolant pressure will rise. Mine rises to 25psi at the top of a run. Andre and Kyle saw the same thing. We are all on standalones. Kyle reduced his pressure by removing his thermostat. Lower temps = lower pressure. His stay at 12psi. Andre saw what I did, 25psi or so. Now, I see Admin has some coolant pressure sensors running through Ecutek. I did see Trash's cars coolant pressure. It maxed at 17psi or so. Not sure why or if it was due to it being done with Ecutek. The GTR guys see anywhere from 38psi to 80psi at the top of a run depending on where the sensor is located. What I am trying to say is get your baseline and go from there. There is no magic number set in stone. You watch your baseline and look for a big change in your norms. More boost equals more heat which equal more pressure. Your readings will vary.

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Anytime I get a chance to listen to Shane T. I am in.

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I am going back to Pocono to do some roll racing next year. Get your cars ready to go.

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Z1 170 deg thermostat testing is done. I am seeing a reduction in temp and coolant pressure. Coolant temps use to run 195 deg. They now are running 185 deg. My max coolant pressure before was 25psi at the top of a run. They are now at 22psi. They decreased 3psi. The data looks good. The coolant pressure has also become more stable when the thermostat is closed. It is worth it to go to this thermostat on a boosted application.

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The Emtron is paying for itself. That's for sure.

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I have seen people do this before.

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Been out testing the factory 88kpa radiator cap on my car. The coolant pressure dropped like a rock. It is now around 8psi regular driving. Under boost the highest it got was 15psi at the top of the rpm range. 7800rpms. That's it.