Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Rusty

Everyone that I know that has done a build. At some point. They say to themselves. "What the fk am I doing?"

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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Spooler

That is normal. LOL... After every build I have done I have said it. I will never sell the vehicle though. I just keep driving it, maintain it, and enjoying it. My diesel forum went to crap back in 2009. I still have my truck though and I enjoy it. The same will be of my Z. If the forum goes away one day, so be it.

Rusty

Any project I do anymore is like that. Soon as I start it. It's "what the fk am I doing?"

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Spooler

After a while of writing checks, that is me. LMAO!!! It was worth it though. Every time I get in my car or my truck, it puts a smile on my face.

Elmo370z

I feel like I just buy parts for a car that I haven’t seen in two years.

JARblue

I can't decide if that's better or worse than buying parts for a car that's been sitting in the garage not running for 2 years lol. I think I'd rather be you cause your end result gonna be far superior

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Elmo370z

Your hood vents will be installed soon

JARblue

That makes me happy. They probably would have sat for a while here. As I have another hood to procrastinate installation on.

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GeauxTigers1

Without sounding like a total pu 55y, does anyone with any success in regards to traction at this power level? I hate to say it right now man but I kinda don’t like this thing. Lol it’s damn scary, just tried a launch and it feels like I’m trying to wrangle her down and between the lines from zero to 130+. Like in 5th gear still feeling like I’m on skates. My launch is perfect, I take right off the line but as soon as I go into boost, even with boost by gear, the damn thing immediately hits redline, shift, immediately redline, 3rd is at least worth something and I get moving, but after all that power, I’d still be slower off the line than my c8 and my buddies stock supra. As soon as I go full throttle it’s immediate redline. If you try to feather it, you’ll them lose boost. I don’t get it

I have the MT super streets, 305/35/18, they are aired down to 27 cold, (originally I thought I went 24 but checked them after the run and they were cooled down) wondering if I should go lower but can’t imagine that’ll make THAT much of a difference. I did a burn out to heat up the tires, then did my launch, maybe just too cold outside? It was in the 50s when I tested this out.

Wanted tonight to boost my confidence in launching and rolling through gears, instead it did the opposite I love her, but damn man tonights one of those where you're just down in the dumps :/

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Fast Intentions Kit Stage 2 #076 2017 Twin Turbo 370z Nismo. JMS Built Block, Closed Deck 874whp, 803lbs Tq e85 Ecutek Tune

jchammond

[QUOTE=GeauxTigers1;3984076]Without sounding like a total pu 55y, does anyone with any success in regards to traction at this power level?

I have the MT super streets, 305/35/18, they are aired down to 27 cold, (originally I thought I went 24 but checked them after the run and they were cooled down) wondering if I should go lower but can’t imagine that’ll make THAT much of a difference. I did a burn out to heat up the tires, then did my launch, maybe just too cold outside? It was in the 50s when I tested this out.

You’re a bit high on pressure; though with a stick shift Z, may require more sidewall...like in a 17” wheel or smaller
Also factor in your rear camber settings, as 0* or even a tick on + side would be optimum for Dragstrip, as rear wheels naturally camber negative on launching

Attached Images

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MazWorx built long block | FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 | IPT built 7A/T

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phunk

Stock springs/height and rear alignment all zeroed out made Justin’s Z hook up insanely better than mine. Needs the higher center of gravity and softer suspension both to greatly aid weight transfer to the rear tires.

Also make sure your tires are fresh. Drag radials heat cycle out and lose grip long before the tread is worn out, especially on IRS cars that heat them up a lot more during highway driving, in my experience

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Spooler

LOL We are in the same boat. Gotta dial in the suspension. I was going to Motec to help with this but it appears it may be a while longer until I do that. 720whp is where my car was best. I feel the same. You have to work your butt off in the drivers seat. Try 900whp, that is wild. The car is constantly trying to kill you. When it is below 80 deg, forget it. I have a new set of 325/30/19's going on when it gets warm. I need to finish getting my 17's for the rear. Going to a MT Street R 305/45/17. They will only be on the car when needed to prevent heat cycling them out.

Spooler

We are learning slowly.

GeauxTigers1

haha sounds good! She goes in Wednesday to install the splitter so I'll definitely have them check rear camber. I want 17s man but none of the wheels I like come in the fitment we need to clear Akebonos I might just have to settle on the wheels just to have a 17 option. Just can't imagine it'll make that much of a difference just form 18s to 17, but I guess there's a reason everyone always goes the smallest wheels possible. This stupid car. lol

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Fast Intentions Kit Stage 2 #076 2017 Twin Turbo 370z Nismo. JMS Built Block, Closed Deck 874whp, 803lbs Tq e85 Ecutek Tune

Spooler

Weld Wheels 6.5 in backspacing with High Hat. 17x10.5 will clear the Akebono's. You only need them for the rear. You will also need a hub ring for both sides to prevent from breaking your wheel studs. Solidus already bought my spec and put them on his car. They work like a champ. Only run them when your serious. 1/2 mile racing, etc. MT Street R Radial, size 305/45/17.