Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Spooler · 10-22-2020, 11:01 PM

It feels like the car is making more power. Guess we are getting broke in the rest of the way. I have been driving the hell out of it.

Hotrodz · 10-22-2020, 11:31 PM

After getting boosted I went from buying tires once a year to twice a year and tha changed again when I started tracking. At that point I went from one set set of tires and wheels to three.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

jchammond · 10-23-2020, 04:54 AM

For the readers of this authentic thread; I will be taking my long block to Mazworx for a Custom “Spooler-Build” on Saturday

This man has endured it all & has posted nothing but the Truth

You want your chit to perform & stay together, follow the one’s who’s been there & done that, good or bad ... he’s posted it all & been completely transparent with everything

Thanks Spooler

old guy · 10-23-2020, 08:27 AM

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 08:53 AM

Side note: I have to take some camber out of the rear. May need to raise the rear up a smidge. The other options is to modify the rear subframe with new pickup points. Brian at MA can do it. Not cheap though.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 09:23 AM

You Ask why change the pickup points? To correct the camber change when the car squats in the rear. It may be -1.5 static but the ramp rate of the suspension under compression the negative camber increases dramatically.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 10:01 AM

I think I am going to go out on that limb again and go a different route than normal. Brian has done this modification many times on Formula Drift cars. Just asked him for a price. I don't know if I want to know. Right now the car is just an animal and a handful to drive. I need to fix the issue before I chunk it in the ditch.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 10:26 AM

Car will go back next year. Price is not bad. I may just take the subframe out at the house and ship it up.

javi370z · 10-23-2020, 01:26 PM

Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javi370z

Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

LOL, you think it will go up for just one upgrade. Oh no!!!!! More on the list.

phunk · 10-23-2020, 03:36 PM

I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires.

Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well.

Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires.

Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well.

Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires.

Yes, the tires are done. I am going to do the pickup point change, reduce camber, and will increase the height. Just got to make some adjustments. We shall see how all this turns out. I am just about 50/50 on weight distribution. Diff cooler and DSS axles in the rear. I am not in a big hurry. I just want to enjoy the car at the moment. I have some bigger fish to fry right now unrelated to car doings.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 08:04 PM

I am doing an "Exit stage Right" again and going my own direction. Will it work? We shall see. Traction is fun as heck. Getting pinned in the drivers seat is something to experience. Spinning is frustrating.

Spooler · 10-24-2020, 07:13 PM

One 55 gallon drum of Ignite Red down the hatch.

Spooler · 10-25-2020, 02:50 PM

Not sure if you guys have figured it out yet but I will save the Dragy for a 1/2 mile event. It is just too dangerous on the street. Way too much traffic, etc. It is just not worth it to me on the street. Folks can say what they want to. I don't care. The risks are just way to high.

10-22-2020, 11:01 PM	#3181 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	It feels like the car is making more power. Guess we are getting broke in the rest of the way. I have been driving the hell out of it. jchammond, old guy and BettyZ like this.

10-22-2020, 11:31 PM	#3182 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	After getting boosted I went from buying tires once a year to twice a year and tha changed again when I started tracking. At that point I went from one set set of tires and wheels to three. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk BGTV8, JARblue, Spooler and 4 others like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

10-23-2020, 04:54 AM	#3183 (permalink)
jchammond A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: South Carolina Age: 58 Posts: 15,204 Drives: 13’ 370Z TS 7A/T Rep Power: 2684395	For the readers of this authentic thread; I will be taking my long block to Mazworx for a Custom “Spooler-Build” on Saturday This man has endured it all & has posted nothing but the Truth You want your chit to perform & stay together, follow the one’s who’s been there & done that, good or bad ... he’s posted it all & been completely transparent with everything Thanks Spooler FL 4Motion, JARblue, cv129 and 10 others like this. __________________ MazWorx built long block \| FI-TT-100 Stage 2.75 \| IPT built 7A/T http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...s-musings.html

10-23-2020, 08:27 AM	#3184 (permalink)
old guy A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: S.E. Michigan Age: 68 Posts: 2,710 Drives: 13 magma touring Rep Power: 2684369	Rusty, Hotrodz and Spooler like this. __________________ I better walk before they make me run....

10-23-2020, 08:53 AM	#3185 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Side note: I have to take some camber out of the rear. May need to raise the rear up a smidge. The other options is to modify the rear subframe with new pickup points. Brian at MA can do it. Not cheap though. FL 4Motion, cv129, Rusty and 3 others like this.

10-23-2020, 09:23 AM	#3186 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	You Ask why change the pickup points? To correct the camber change when the car squats in the rear. It may be -1.5 static but the ramp rate of the suspension under compression the negative camber increases dramatically. FL 4Motion, JARblue, cv129 and 6 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 10-23-2020 at 10:01 AM.

10-23-2020, 10:01 AM	#3187 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I think I am going to go out on that limb again and go a different route than normal. Brian has done this modification many times on Formula Drift cars. Just asked him for a price. I don't know if I want to know. Right now the car is just an animal and a handful to drive. I need to fix the issue before I chunk it in the ditch. JARblue, Rusty, Hotrodz and 3 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 10-23-2020 at 12:51 PM.

10-23-2020, 10:26 AM	#3188 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Car will go back next year. Price is not bad. I may just take the subframe out at the house and ship it up. JARblue, Rusty, Hotrodz and 2 others like this. Last edited by Spooler; 10-23-2020 at 11:19 AM.

10-23-2020, 01:26 PM	#3189 (permalink)
javi370z Base Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: dallas Posts: 118 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 13	Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

10-23-2020, 03:36 PM	#3191 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires. Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well. Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires. FL 4Motion, JARblue, Hotrodz and 4 others like this. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 10-23-2020 at 03:45 PM.

10-23-2020, 08:04 PM	#3193 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I am doing an "Exit stage Right" again and going my own direction. Will it work? We shall see. Traction is fun as heck. Getting pinned in the drivers seat is something to experience. Spinning is frustrating. cv129 and Hotrodz like this.

10-24-2020, 07:13 PM	#3194 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	One 55 gallon drum of Ignite Red down the hatch. JARblue, Hotrodz, Ghostvette and 4 others like this.

10-25-2020, 02:50 PM	#3195 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,834 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Not sure if you guys have figured it out yet but I will save the Dragy for a 1/2 mile event. It is just too dangerous on the street. Way too much traffic, etc. It is just not worth it to me on the street. Folks can say what they want to. I don't care. The risks are just way to high. FL 4Motion, cv129, Hotrodz and 5 others like this.

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