I have several irons in the fire, so to speak. Brian at MA is getting with the machine shop to see what they think. They have built many a motor
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12-29-2019, 11:23 AM | #1966 (permalink) |
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I have several irons in the fire, so to speak. Brian at MA is getting with the machine shop to see what they think. They have built many a motor and have sleeved many. Only one engine that I know of has had Darton MID sleeves. That is Mikes, bullitt5897. I know MA has done one engine with LA sleeves. I am just like anybody else. I can't afford for this to happen again. It is raining here again today. I need to drain all the coolant when the weather breaks.
Last edited by Spooler; 12-29-2019 at 11:31 AM. |
12-29-2019, 11:40 AM | #1967 (permalink) | |
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12-29-2019, 03:03 PM | #1968 (permalink) |
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I wish there was more information available about High HP builds. I haven't found anybody that has been successful yet. A couple of folks still working/testing a solution but they haven't posted anything about it. It is purely frustrating. Still researching. My wife asks me how it is going. My response is "It is the black hole of information."
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12-29-2019, 03:21 PM | #1969 (permalink) |
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I have no dog in this fight, nor am I ever going to have a FI build, but this thread is invaluable.
The information from a high up build that actually gets driven this much and this often will serve as an epic example for anybody that goes down this path. Sorry to hear. I initially thought this was one of your jokes (remember the 4 way JRZ, and then the you sold your freshly finished build for an offer you couldn’t refuse, or your front shocks blew...). Best of luck!
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12-29-2019, 03:41 PM | #1970 (permalink) |
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LOL, I wish it was one of my leg pulling posts. It's all part of a build. The ups and downs. Anybody can go down the path, it's not for the faint of heart.
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12-29-2019, 05:28 PM | #1971 (permalink) |
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I will figure it out guys. I am just doing what nobody has attempted before or even documented. I have a good idea of what I need to do. I just need some conformation and I may not have that for a bit. My motor needs to come apart and be inspected. That will tell the tail of what happened for sure. I got one more chance to get this right and I will be taking my time. I have some good people around me helping.
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12-29-2019, 08:32 PM | #1972 (permalink) |
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Yep, there aren't that many of us that are in the big boost game. I'm not up for a high dollar high horsepower mall crawler or I would just go buy one! That's no fun and I get more enjoyment out you knuckleheads giving us crazies a hard time. The commentary is priceless.
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12-29-2019, 08:41 PM | #1973 (permalink) | |
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12-29-2019, 09:07 PM | #1975 (permalink) | |
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My car is back down at MA-Motorsports as well … It started running real crappy soon after I got it back from build. Took it to a few shops up here in NJ but nobody wanted to touch it so I put it on a flat bed and back down to Maryland it went. When it arrived at MA-M they determined that (most likely) the passenger side turbo had failed - which in fact it had - but they didn't get to replace it immediately because of the workload in the shop. I've owned the car for almost 9 years now and almost 6 of those years it's been sitting in a shop somewhere accumulating tire rot. aaarrrggghhh
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12-29-2019, 09:29 PM | #1976 (permalink) |
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Ughh, that sucks man. I wanted big power in my Z but couldn't stomach the cost it would take to do it in a VQ. Keep up the good right man.
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12-29-2019, 09:59 PM | #1977 (permalink) |
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Sad to see the news ............
If you are going to start again, start with an R35 (VR38) block ..... Can I also suggest that you need two tunes in the car .... one with "enough" boost for fun-DD and another for "mega-grin factor". There was a time when I had to build 3 race engines (starting with new blocks following catasrophic engine failure) in one season before biting the bullet and retiring the wet sump and going dry-sump, so I understand the frustration. I eventually stepped out of competition for the season and spent time researching and "building it right". I had some really robust conversations with my engine-builder and lots of phone calls and discussions with others who had been down my road (my race engine was based on the Buick 215 alloy V8 which was the genesis of the Repco-Brabham F1 engine in the 60's) and I found a heap of research available. Not wishing to say anything about MA but there are a few guys here in Oz who run VQ35HR TT engines in off-road buggies and they all run 600-700 HP for extended WoT). Check out the Finke Desert Race as an example of arduous duty - but these guys limit their boost to aid reliability hence my suggestion for 2 tunes - OR start with a VR block. There is a shop in South Australia who are doing a billet VR block but it is a serious investment. Blowing the bottom hose off suggests you've got boost/combustion pressure into the water jacket so head gasket clamping pressure is the key and I suspect a VQ block - even with closed deck sleeves is never going to be 100%. Hence the suggestion of a VR38 block as the basis of doing it again. Two quotes to remember ... "Good luck with your project" and Look after SWMBO unless you want to find out how much your half of the house is worth !!! |
12-29-2019, 10:23 PM | #1978 (permalink) | |
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12-29-2019, 10:30 PM | #1979 (permalink) |
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If you decide to go with Darton sleeves make sure you find an experienced shop to install them. I had one of the first LS1 darton blocks and had nothing but nightmares with the block. I would call Darton and ask them who can do the install correctly. Personally I'll never use sleeves again.
I dont think sleeves will fix the issue anyway. I'm having deck stanchions machined above each chamber for additional strength. My shop thinks it will handle up to 30psi. It should be done in 6 weeks, I'll post some pics. I would be interested in knowing what is needed to use a 3.8 block... |
12-29-2019, 10:36 PM | #1980 (permalink) | |
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