Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Spooler · 03-07-2018, 11:47 AM

For what I am doing, a Bryant crank for a VQ37 will not be needed. FI cars don't need to rev past 8K IMHO.

Rid3_FaM0uS · 03-07-2018, 12:00 PM

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

javi370z · 03-07-2018, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

I called Bryant Racing yesterday and the guy I talked to didn't no chit. I asked him about a crank for a vq34 and he had no idea what I was talking about he said they had ones available for vq35 and vq37. He said the cost was around $3k.

I think if you are wanting to rev 8k or above for more than a quarter mile run you need to upgrade your crank. If you are going to run on the street, I don't know if a crank upgrade is really all that necessary. From what I have seen of all the plus 900whp builds, many other things fail before you get to the crank being a limiting factor. The number issue has been extreme heat and the upper manifold failing at or over 22 to 23 psi.

VQ37=370z, g37 etc. VQ35= 350z,g35 etc VQ34=???

Hotrodz · 03-07-2018, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javi370z

VQ37=370z, g37 etc. VQ35= 350z,g35 etc VQ34=???

Lol, Ikr!

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Rusty · 03-07-2018, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Lol, Ikr!

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Having a senior moment again?

Spooler · 03-07-2018, 01:38 PM

Well crap. I guess I will be building the engine and installing a CJ Motorsport duel fuel pump setup. If I build the engine now I basically get it for half price from what it would cost later. Editing parts list.

Hotrodz · 03-07-2018, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Having a senior moment again?

Mine last for days but seem like moments!

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Rusty · 03-07-2018, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Mine last for days but seem like moments!

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Lets be friends until we are old and senile. Then we can be new friends.

Hotrodz · 03-07-2018, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Lets be friends until we are old and senile. Then we can be new friends.

Glad to meet you, I'm Bob!

Spooler · 03-12-2018, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

What compression ratio was your engine?

Elmo370z · 03-12-2018, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

Cjm is working on a solution to not have to run a closed deck or sleeve the block.

Spooler · 03-12-2018, 10:59 AM

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

Hotrodz · 03-12-2018, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Elmo370z · 03-12-2018, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Nobody has hotrodz money

Hotrodz · 03-12-2018, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Nobody has hotrodz money

LMAO, if anybody does it is Spooler! A closed deck block is cheap compared to some of the other mods he is doing.

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03-07-2018, 11:47 AM	#31 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,797 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	For what I am doing, a Bryant crank for a VQ37 will not be needed. FI cars don't need to rev past 8K IMHO. Hotrodz likes this.

03-07-2018, 12:00 PM	#32 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you! GaleForce, Rusty, Hotrodz and 3 others like this. __________________ Always under construction. . .

03-07-2018, 01:38 PM	#36 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,797 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Well crap. I guess I will be building the engine and installing a CJ Motorsport duel fuel pump setup. If I build the engine now I basically get it for half price from what it would cost later. Editing parts list. Rusty, Rid3_FaM0uS, jchammond and 2 others like this.

03-12-2018, 10:59 AM	#42 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,797 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out. Rusty likes this. Last edited by Spooler; 03-12-2018 at 11:04 AM.

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