Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3736538)

I called Bryant Racing yesterday and the guy I talked to didn't no chit. I asked him about a crank for a vq34 and he had no idea what I was talking about he said they had ones available for vq35 and vq37. He said the cost was around $3k.

I think if you are wanting to rev 8k or above for more than a quarter mile run you need to upgrade your crank. If you are going to run on the street, I don't know if a crank upgrade is really all that necessary. From what I have seen of all the plus 900whp builds, many other things fail before you get to the crank being a limiting factor. The number issue has been extreme heat and the upper manifold failing at or over 22 to 23 psi.

Originally Posted by javi370z (Post 3736621)

VQ37=370z, g37 etc. VQ35= 350z,g35 etc VQ34=???

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3736638)

Lol, Ikr!

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Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3736642)

Having a senior moment again? :rofl2:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3736650)

Mine last for days but seem like moments!

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Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3736781)

Lets be friends until we are old and senile. Then we can be new friends. :rofl2:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS (Post 3736610)

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS (Post 3736610)

A build of this power goal will be PLENTY fine with the OE forged crankshaft. GTR cranks are of the same forging process and good to 1000 wheel torque. The only difference between the two aside from the obvious stroke change is the slightly larger rod journal diameter. I do recommend, however, preparing to invest in a sleeved or closed deck block for the built engines power goals. It WILL be a ticking head gasket time bomb. Aside from that great shop, great people, great build list man! And I hope to see this project turn out equally as great for you!

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3737998)

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3738026)

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3738027)

Nobody has hotrodz money